How to use Lee Case Length Gauge?

[labnoti]

I have a Lee Case Length Gauge for my cartridge, .38 Special, which should be 1.155".

I screw the length gauge into the cutter, but how far? If I screw it all the way down to the cutter, it damages the cutter and I get a case with a length of 1.065". So if I don't screw it all the way in, what holds the adjustment?

I watched this video: from Lee and the person just screws the gauge into the cutter and there's nothing else shown.

 

[Varminterror]

Proper technique is described as follows:

1) unpackage Lee case length spindle
2) assemble spindle into cutter head
3) throw the entire assembly into the garbage

 

[25-5]

Yep! Good advice. Close to forty years reloading, and never trimmed pistol brass. Rifle, would be a yes though.

 

[edwardware]

Seriously, it sounds like you have the wrong gauge, or a defective gauge. Threaded all the way in, it should cut a few ten-thou below max length.

Are you sure you have 38 Spl, not 38 S&W or Colt?

 

[labnoti]

I see my mistake. I was indexing the gauge pin's shoulder against the flash hole, and I needed to use the lock-stud and shell-holder to index the pin-end against the lock-stud. I was hoping to avoid having to load the shell into the holder and lock stud.

But if I use it as intended, it trims the cases to 1.145". It will not uniform a batch of cases that are shorter. If I have a batch of cases that vary from 1.140 to 1.150, I can't use it to trim them all to 1.140"

If I use the Lee 8‑32 Threaded Cutter, it has an 8-32 stud with a hex socket. It's too short, but if I use a longer stud I could screw it in so the length gauge pin bottoms on the stud instead of the cutter blades. Then I could use the flash-hole on the pin shoulder and uniform a batch of shells.

 

[Blue68f100]

You could add a shim(s) between the stem and cutter head. I will warn you the steel they use on the stems is heat treated and extremely hard.

No need to trim pistol brass like others have said. I will say it's beneficial for 357mag, 44mag where you want to roll crimp.

 

[edwardware]

Then I could use the flash-hole on the pin shoulder and uniform a batch of shells.

There's no reason to assume the web is a consistent thickness, especially across batches of brass. If you're interested in enough precision too make trimming pistol brass worthwhile, then it's worth doing right, using the case head as the reference surface.

 

[cfullgraf]

If you want to trim the cases a bit shorter, you can grind a bit off the pin. That will shorten the distance from the end of the pin to the cutter.

But, grinding just a few thousandths off the pin is not the easiest task to do and get right.

As you have found, the case holder and lock stud are an important part of the Lee trimmer system.

I was hoping to avoid having to load the shell into the holder and lock stud.

There have been some folks that chuck the cutter and gauge assembly in a drill press and use the drill press table as the pin stop instead of the case holder and lock stud. This would accomplish what you were originally looking for and not use the case holder and lock stud but get consistent trims.

In my opinion, the Lee trimmer system has its idiosyncrasy and aggravations, Once you figure out how to deal with the trimmer system's issues, it does a fairly good job of trimming cases consistently at a fairly good rate and at a budget price.

 

[9mmepiphany]

But if I use it as intended, it trims the cases to 1.145". It will not uniform a batch of cases that are shorter. If I have a batch of cases that vary from 1.140 to 1.150, I can't use it to trim them all to 1.140"

.38Spl brass has quite a bit of variance in case length...even within the same headstamp. If you want to get a consistent roll crimp, you'll need a uniform case length.

My match ammo is all loaded in cases that measure 1.145"

1. I'm using the Lyman E-ZEE Trim attached to a hand power drill
2. I sort my cases by headstamp
3. I discard any case that is shorter than the cutter will reach

In the last 1200 that I trimmed, I had less than 10 that I discarded. In the next 800, I only had 2 that the cutter didn't touch

 

[thomas15]

^^^ I've been experimenting with trimming 38 spl cases to 38 LC length. I use a Lyman Universal case trimmer and cordless drill and chamfer and deburr with an RCBS case mate. I really don't fuss over the finished case length. The reason for the trimming is to get faster reloads in my L-6 gun without having to buy Starline brass (prolly SC brass) and replace my entire collection of TK moons with TK moons that work with Starline brass. To go with Starline and new TKs would cost 5 or 6 hundred dollars or more.

Outside of that I never measure/trim/worry about case length in 38/357 handloads

 

[lightman]

It sounds like you found your problem. But just to be sure. The length is fixed and is controlled by the pin hitting the lock stud through the shell holder. The gauge needs to be screwed into the cutter until it bottoms out. You can shorten the length by removing a little material from the tip of the pin. I would do this by hand with a stone of file.

As far as trimming pistol brass goes, most don't. I have because correctly trimmed cases make for a more uniform crimp and more accurate ammo. For plinking ammo this may not be important but it does add to the accuracy potential.

As far as to how well this system works, well, it works ok. Its a fairly cheap way to get into trimming for a single caliber. I have several pairs of gauges and cutters and use a cordless drill. I have polished most of my gauges by spinning them in a drill against a piece of 1200 grit emory cloth.

 

[Toprudder]

If I use the Lee 8‑32 Threaded Cutter, it has an 8-32 stud with a hex socket. It's too short, but if I use a longer stud I could screw it in so the length gauge pin bottoms on the stud instead of the cutter blades. Then I could use the flash-hole on the pin shoulder and uniform a batch of shells.

If it is like my one cutter (that I use for .223) the threads are not cut all the way through to the bottom of the gauge. But, I did essentially what you describe.

I have used my Lee trimmer to trim several thousand (maybe 10k?) cases, and over time I guess the pin that controls the depth had worn down some, and was about 5 thousandths shorter than the "trim to" length. So, I tried using locktite to lock the gauge in at a slightly longer length, but that did not hold. So I took an 8/32 screw, cut off the head, trimmed the threads off of one end, and slotted the other end so I could adjust with a flat screwdriver. I was able to use that screw to lock the gauge into place at any depth I wanted. I then use the normal stud that came with the cutter it to attach it to the case prep center. It has worked perfectly so far.

I personally like the Lee trimmer setup, with the 8/32 threaded cutters. I use them in my case prep center. I prefer using the Hornady shell holders and the cam-lock part of the Hornady trimmer to hold the brass, though. The Lee setup for holding the brass is a pain, IMHO.

Looking back, if I knew I was going to be prepping this much 223 brass, I would have gotten the Giraud. The Frankford prep center did not exist at the time, but the next time I see a sale on one I am going to pick one up. However, neither of these will work on straight-wall brass.

 

[mdi]

I have 6 Lee trimmers and 4 Lyman trimmers (same principle). Of course the Lee Haters cannot/will not get any Lee tools to work and recommend tossing them. FWIW, I have a Ruger 308 that uses handloads that I use Lee dies on brass trimmed with a Lee trimmer and only get 7/8" groups at 100. Mebbe if I use my $$$ lathe type trimmer, the one that takes about an hour to set correctly, I can get better accuracy? NAH!

 

[greyling22]

I would up with the Lee 3 jaw Chuck instead of the usual spindle. I like it a lot better.

 

[thomas15]

Mebbe if I use my $$$ lathe type trimmer, the one that takes about an hour to set correctly, I can get better accuracy? NAH!

Of course the Hornady/RCBS/Forster/Little Crow Haters cannot/will not get any Hornady/RCBS/Forster/Little Crow tools to work and recommend tossing them.

 

[Paladin7]

As we all know, Lee designs some very innovative tools. I use plenty of them and generally like Lee Precision.

But if you are going for match grade ammunition, my best advice is to use match grade tools... I would highly recommend the LE Wilson Case Trimmer with Micrometer adjustment knob and the drill chuck adapter. That will get you completely uniform precise trimming and do it much quicker than your current set up.

Hope that helps

 

[Varminterror]

Of course the Lee Haters cannot/will not get any Lee tools to work and recommend tossing them.

It’s easy to call someone who is vocal against a Lee product a Lee Hater, but I will say for myself, I have a LOT of Lee gear, and recommend it regularly, on this forum included. However, the Lee case length trimming gear is junk. It works, and it’s inexpensive, but the sweat capital a guy has to invest is ridiculous. I have taught reloaders for many years, helped guys pick out and buy their first gear, was even certified and taught the NRA metallic reloading course for a time, and the Lee case length gauges is one piece of equipment I recommend HIGHLY against. The only time I have been remotely satisfied in its use is when I mounted it in a drill press, and it still wasn’t as fast, easy, and accurate as a lathe type press, let alone something like the Giraud/Frankford Platinum.

I run 5 Lee presses currently, and have dozens of their die sets. I don’t hate Lee, don’t even dislike it, but I do HATE their case length trimming gear.

 

[mdi]

Pointing out less than stellar experiences with some tools is acceptable and welcome as far as I'm concerned, but those that go out of their way to bad mouth a specific tool manufacturer I consider just ignorant "haters" (I knew a mechanic that had well over 60 years experience on all types of automotive, marine and heavy equipment that called all tools, other than his Snap-On, junk not worth having). Some are just parroting what they've read on forums (want to sound cool/knowledgeable), some can't read instructions (I see a lot of these) and some can't operate a hammer properly much less a tool as intricate as a case trimmer. I am a lifelong machinist/mechanic (50+ years) and have a lot of Lee tools, but also I have tools from Forster, RCBS, Pacific, Herters, Lyman, Redding and I'm sure there are others I can't think of right now and I've not experienced more failures from Lee tools than any of the others, but maybe I just know how to use tools...

 

[Varminterror]

This isn’t about brand of tool, it’s the design. I wouldn’t recommend ANY handheld trimming device. Period. Since this thread was specifically about the Lee cutters, and my response specifically about the Lee cutters, I’m not really sure why you felt a need to bring up a straw man about Lee hater’s to be dismissive. The handheld systems are a waste of time. Period. It’s not about machining tolerance or your individual professional experience. They are a waste of time. No master machinist will ever be as fast or any less labor intensive using the Lee tool as they would be with any number of other tools of better designs.

I can roof my house using a rock to drive nails. Or I can use a hammer, or better still, an air nailer. There’s no sense in whining about someone not liking Dewalt or Makita in a conversation comparing rocks to air nailers...

 

[thomas15]

Some are just parroting what they've read on forums (want to sound cool/knowledgeable), some can't read instructions (I see a lot of these) and some can't operate a hammer properly much less a tool as intricate as a case trimmer.

Ouch!

Like hitting your thumb with a cheap imported hammer!

 

[mdi]

Hand held trimmers are not a waste of time. All the ones I own are extremely accurate (.001" variation) and repeatable. Every single one is quick and easy to use some times I use them by hand, sometimes I use them in my hand drill, and sometimes when I have a lot of brass to trim, I use one in a drill press. Excellent, compact, innovative design, not the same, tired old technology my grandpa used.

When someone complains about an RCBS tool not giving the results wanted, the user is blamed. When someone can't get results wanted from a Lee tool, the tool is blamed. When a specific tool is brought up in a thread and the reply in question has nothing to do with the use of the tool, just a general derogatory, snide comment, then that is plain old bias ("my tools are better than your tools, nah, nah, nah"). If one had replied "I have not had good luck with Lee trimmers" rather than "Just throw it away" then I, and most other readers, would consider that an opinion and acceptable. Otherwise, it's just a Lee Hater spewing...

Respond if you must, but I'm done with this thread (reminds me of the old saying about arguing with a pig...).

 

[thomas15]

Chill out dude this isn't a life/death situation.

 

[cfullgraf]

Sometimes, I like to use a trim die and a file.

I have a few in my reloading tool cache.