Grayrock
Member
A friend has this and is asking if I want to purchase it. Not sure what it is or what it's worth. This is the only description: "Gun Safe/Cabinet 40 in wide x 28 in deep by 65 in height. 500 lb??" Unusual door design.
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Identify this cabinet
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Grayrock
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Charlie98
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Can't see the photos... you need to use a photo hosting site, and then link the photo from there.
Or right click and save the image to your desktop then just drag the image from your desktop into the post, so we can see it.
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Grayrock
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Oops. Sorry. Will fix when I get home this evening.
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Grayrock
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edwardware
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I can't quite tell if that's a sheet metal door, or a plywood door covered in felt. . . Those hinges look like they came off a shelf at The Home Despot.
The door edges are intended to look like a similar feature on many old safes, and provide a longer more torturous path for shims or combustion gasses to get through.
I'd need much better pictures, especially of the UL and manufacturer plaques, before offering anything.
The door edges are intended to look like a similar feature on many old safes, and provide a longer more torturous path for shims or combustion gasses to get through.
I'd need much better pictures, especially of the UL and manufacturer plaques, before offering anything.
That unit is not even worth buying. I can see it has some metal on top where it's been dinged and starting to rust.
When buying a used (gun) vault, the first thing you must look for are the cross bolts that seal the door when closed. Most are now a single door. I also noticed the full hinge is on the outside of the door frame. That's a big no no. I could pry that baby open in under a minute.
There is a nice Utube video that shows how crooks open gun safes. They get the safe on its back flat on the floor and then use a long harbor pry bar to warp the door and/or the cross bolts. You can't stop them forever, but you can certainly slow them down by bolting it vertically to the floor and making it almost impossible to pry the door. If they have to use a cutting torch, most will give up. Three cross bolts, top, middle and bottom should be 4 inches long minimum and 1 inch diameter or more.
When buying a used (gun) vault, the first thing you must look for are the cross bolts that seal the door when closed. Most are now a single door. I also noticed the full hinge is on the outside of the door frame. That's a big no no. I could pry that baby open in under a minute.
There is a nice Utube video that shows how crooks open gun safes. They get the safe on its back flat on the floor and then use a long harbor pry bar to warp the door and/or the cross bolts. You can't stop them forever, but you can certainly slow them down by bolting it vertically to the floor and making it almost impossible to pry the door. If they have to use a cutting torch, most will give up. Three cross bolts, top, middle and bottom should be 4 inches long minimum and 1 inch diameter or more.
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Grayrock
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Got some MFG info.
jmorris
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I wouldn’t play around inside it, if you need to tinker with the lock.
http://antiquerestorers.com/cgi-bin/bbs/furn/config.pl?read=6418
http://antiquerestorers.com/cgi-bin/bbs/furn/config.pl?read=6418
http://antiquerestorers.com/cgi-bin/bbs/furn/config.pl?read=6418
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Grayrock
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CapnMac
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The Safe Cabinet Company of Marietta, Ohio appears to have opened around the time of the First World War, and does not appear to have made it to the 21st Century.
The doors appear to have individual latches/bolts. Which are likely vertical in nature, as nothing is revealed in the astragal (the fancy term for the overlap on the RH door).
From the few catalogs from SCC, the "A" and "B" models had UL Fire ratings. Also, the stock colors were either black or olive drab with gold pinstriping. And, that's a Yale combination lock, so this beast had been restored at least once. Whether that makes it worth it the effort and expense of moving it, I can't tell you.
The doors appear to have individual latches/bolts. Which are likely vertical in nature, as nothing is revealed in the astragal (the fancy term for the overlap on the RH door).
From the few catalogs from SCC, the "A" and "B" models had UL Fire ratings. Also, the stock colors were either black or olive drab with gold pinstriping. And, that's a Yale combination lock, so this beast had been restored at least once. Whether that makes it worth it the effort and expense of moving it, I can't tell you.
