I'm 18, and about to buy a DSA SA-58 FAL. Help!

[dodging230grainers]

Ok, so I've been saving for a while, and my heart set on a FAL. My local store has a two used DSA SA-58 .308 FALs, one with a 17" barrel, the other with a 22". They are identically priced at $1100. Here are some questions I can think of:

1) Ok, this is minor. I don't mind the stock blued furniture, but can I get wood furniture for it in the future?

2) Perhaps the most important; what should I be checking on the gun and how to make sure I'm not being sold a lemon? Should I request a basic field strip?

3) 17" or 22"? This is mainly a SHTF/range gun. Is the increased blast and noise worth the improved manueverability? I realize answers will vary.

4) Do I have to use a scope right away? Or are the iron sights on this gun good enough for range and basic combat usage?

5) Anything I should know basically about a FAL, or a DSA FAL? Will DSA repair my gun or send me parts even if I'm not the original owner?

Anything else I should know? Much appreciated, thanks!

 

[Deer Hunter]

I bought an STG58 when I turned 18.

The 18" barrel on mine makes it extremely handy. The 17" barrel would be fine for yours, the blast isn't bad at all. The iron sights arn't the best, but you can work with them just fine. I've got a 5x russian POSP scope on mine, but added it later. Iron sights are crude but functional.

DSA is a wonderful company to work with. They make the best FALs in the world and stick behind their product. Look up their 9 hour stress test for their SA58 series if you don't believe me.

 

[Andrewsky]

Wow, I don't know what you're waiting for.

Sounds like two great deals to me.

I'd go for the 21" if I were you.

If you don't, you'll be wanting a "classic" FAL sooner or later.

Here's some pics (note the tactical short shorts):

 

[Ian Sean]

1) Ok, this is minor. I don't mind the stock blued furniture, but can I get wood furniture for it in the future?

Right here, a bit pricy but US made, thus it is compliant wood, good reputation.

http://www.ironwooddesigns.com/2aprod/1zFALprod.html

) Perhaps the most important; what should I be checking on the gun and how to make sure I'm not being sold a lemon? Should I request a basic field strip?

I would register over at the FALFILES and read and read and read.....then print print print every possible known info to man on the FAL is there.

 

[Grayrider]

I prefer our carbine length guns, but either would serve you well. We are working on wood furniture, but the project is moving slowly so Ironwood would be your best short term option. Certainly inspecting the gun is not a bad idea, and be aware that many guns are built on DSA receivers so I would be sure to verify with them that the gun is a factory DSA build. 17" is not a common barrel length for us, so if they are 100% sure that is the length it may not be our gun. I bet they are just including the flash hider in the measurement, and you are seeing a 16" gun. For that matter the full length barrel should be 21". The irons are fine for basic purposes, and you can add our scope mount later. Do not buy off brand mounts as they will not hold up well in general. As for warranty, it is for the original owner. Of course DSA will service the rifles, but it would be for a fee. I seriously doubt you will break them under any reasonable use. Our warranty covers everything but intentional breakage pretty much for the original owner. That is how tough the guns are. You would probably have to try to break it, and even then it would not be easy. The FAL is just that good!

John

 

[kfranz]

Me, I wouldn't pay $1100 for a used DSA. Go register over at the FALfiles. Texas is well represented there, and you should be able to find someone in your vicinity to help you learn some more before you plunk down your hard earned $. In fact, unless you're a complete dirt bag (your post gives the indication that you are not) I'd be surprised if you couldn't find someone to connect with that would let you put some rounds through one of theirs.

If you choose to ignore that first piece of advice, here's some direct answers to your questions...

2. Ask for a test fire. A field strip isn't going to tell you much, unless the bolt is missing.

4. Since the odds of you using it for "combat usage" are minimal, and given that 90 + countries adopted various FAL type rifles for issue to their military forces that actually had a chance of using it for combat usage, yeah, I'd say the iron sights will get the job done.

3. I've got both carbine and standard length. Both are fine, but I prefer the carbine length.

1. Wood buttstocks are pretty easy to come by. Commonwealth wooden handguards are pretty easy to come by, and will fit your metric pattern rifle. Original metric wood handguards are not as common, and demand a premium. At one time, DSA offered some Euro wood sets that looked beautiful in the print ads. You might find a set on the secondary market.

 

[tallpaul]

how much more is a new one... new with warranty may be worth it. DSA definately has a great rep. Buying new may save headaches and since this is your fiirst might not be a bad idea.

 

[Wolfgang2000]

If all thing are equal the short barrel is much handier to maneuver in the woods, or home.

 

[Wes Janson]

It all really depends on their condition, and what specific configuration they're in. STG-58 models are running around $1100-1200 new, but the only new SA-58s I've seen in stores tend to have more features, and cost a bit more.

 

[ny32182]

If it is really an SA-58 model of any sort, 1100 is a pretty good deal, as even a basic one brand new will easily be $1500+ by the time its out the door.

If its an STG58, its a fine rifle, but probably not worth 1100 unless there are some high dollar accessories included.

 

[fastbike]

I saw 2 STG58's at the last Fort Worth gun show for ~$950. Both new/like new. Don't remember the seller, but he will probably be at the next Houston show as well.

 

[dodging230grainers]

thanks for the replies guys. I bought the 16.25" carbine today for $1100 out the door. Few questions though:

1) It came with an aftermarket plastic buffer, supposedly this helps reduce wear on the gun and percieved recoil. Should I leave this in there, or take it out?

2) What kind of bore brush is the best to get for a DSA FAL? Would a certain gauge shotgun brush work, or should I get a .308 rifle brush, etc?

3) DSA FALs are metric, not inch, correct?

4) Should I shoot wolf or other milsurp corrosive ammo in the gun? Any bullet weights I should avoid for fouling problems?

thanks!!

 

[silverlance]

Congratulations on your new FAL.
They are tough little suckers and will take a ridiculous amount of abuse.

1. leave the buffer in. it's not necessary but doesn't hurt either.
2. 308 bore brush would be best. you dont even need to use it every range trip unless you are a heavy shooter, if you clean quickly afterwards.
3. DSA FALs are both metric and inch. your model is 99% likely metric.
4. I would not recommend WOLF as there have been reports of case head separation. That said, I run WOLF thorugh my own FAL rifles lately due to ammo prices. Of course, YMMV - I work for a factory where we can easily remove the stuck case if I do get a case head separation. Corrosive - it can handle it, and probably has for many years with no problems given proper maintenance, but I wouldn't recommend it. Other than some S&B corrosive that sold out years ago i woudln't know where you'd find it, either.

Kev

 

[dodging230grainers]

thanks silver-

also, can I safely shoot commerical .308 in my SA-58? Like just basic Winchester White Box .308? Or do I need to find 7.62x51mm milspec to ensure I don't ruin a $1100 gun?

 

[Wes Janson]

If it's a DSA, then to my understanding it should be headspaced to .308 Win specs, so commercial ammunition is good.

 

[Coronach]

1) Ok, this is minor. I don't mind the stock blued furniture, but can I get wood furniture for it in the future?

Yep

2) Perhaps the most important; what should I be checking on the gun and how to make sure I'm not being sold a lemon? Should I request a basic field strip?

Run the action a few times to make sure it cycles smoothly. Look at the bore for rust/pitting. Break it open (lever on the left side), pull the bolt and look at the innards and chamber. You're looking for rust, cracks, unusual peening and wear- though if you're not familiar with the rifle, you probably won't know what's unusual.

3) 17" or 22"? This is mainly a SHTF/range gun. Is the increased blast and noise worth the improved manueverability? I realize answers will vary.

Personal preference. My FAL is full length. I figure if I'm doing .308, I may as well go whole hog.

4) Do I have to use a scope right away? Or are the iron sights on this gun good enough for range and basic combat usage?

The iron sights are nothing special, but they're not bad, either. They'll work just fine for combat/SHTF usage. If you do scope it, get the DSA scope mount. Don't screw around with anything else.

5) Anything I should know basically about a FAL, or a DSA FAL? Will DSA repair my gun or send me parts even if I'm not the original owner?

AFAIK, DSA will honor the warranty even if you're not the first owner. They'll certainly be more than happy to send you parts.

As to what else you need to know, gas system adjustment is important. What you want to do is close the gas regulator (right by the front sight) all of the way. Shoot a round. The bolt should not cycle. Open it one setting. Shoot a round. Repeat this until you find a setting at which it will cycle every time. Leave it there. If all hades does break loose, open it one more setting, just to be sure.

Mike

PS I may have "open" and "closed" backwards in my advice about the regulator. The point is that you want to find the setting at which it will cycle reliably without using excess gas. The more gas you use, the more force is placed on the piston. That's great for making it run reliably, but it places more wear and tear on the gun. Hence, pick the setting that uses the least gas but still runs 100%, and take it one setting further if you ever end up in a situation where it REALLY MUST WORK. Make a note of the setting before you fiddle with it. If you turn it all of the way one way and your first shot sends the brass case into the next zip code, turn it all of the way the other way and work up from there. If you end up at the same setting it was when you first got it (or really close, like one off) it's probably a good sign that the previous owner knew what he was doing.

 

[armoredman]

All I can say is color me jealous. Nice buy!

 

[tallpaul]

Where are the pics?

Congrats!

 

[ny32182]

If it is an SA58, it is barreled/speced for .308 Win. If it is an STG58 built with a surplus kit, it is barreled/speced for 7.62x51.

Long story short, you can run either ammo in either rifle *as long as everything is in spec*. The .308 barrel is actually more desireable, and theoretically can handle higher pressure than the military barrel. .308 commercial ammo will be higher pressure, and uses thinner brass. If you are running this in a rifle with more headspace (military barrel), then this should shorten the brass life if you reload.

That is the story as I read it on Falfiles.

I am also curious about how you know for sure what the rifle is. I have one of each, and both say SA58 on the receiver. Just because it says SA58 on the receiver doesn't mean thats what it is; it just means that is the receiver it was built with.

One fairly reliable way to tell is by looking at the lower. The steel surplus lower of the STG58 is marked for safe/semi/full auto. The US made aluminum lower of the SA58 is only marked for safe/semi.

 

[dodging230grainers]

thanks for the replies guys. It is infact an SA-58, the fire settings are "safe" and "semi". I'm not home now, but I'll post plenty of pics later.

Coronach, or anyone else, can you comment further on how the gas regulator works? I thought I saw a circular rotating disc near the front sight. Also, good to know I can shoot commercial .308 out of it if need be.

thanks guys!

 

[ny32182]

On the gas setting, there should be a sticky on Falfiles somewhere about it.

What I do to adjust the gas is open the regulator all the way up (to "7" I believe, or whatever the highest number is). You can see a gas port under the regulator sleeve. As you turn the regulator, this port is steadily covered more or less depending on which way you are turning the regulator. When he gas port is mostly exposed, there will be less gas being used to cycle the action, and vice versa.

You want to start with the gas port uncovered all the way. Put one round in the magazine, chamber, and fire. If the action does not lock open, close the port by one click and try again. Keep closing the port until you find a setting that will lock the action open 3-5 times in a row. Then close it two more clicks. This should give you a reliable gas setting for the ammo you are using.

After that, I would test it with a full magazine, since the higher pressure on the bottom of the bolt can affect how much gas is needed.

Also if you adjust the gas with hotter commercial ammo, you may run into issues when shooting milspec, etc. If you tune the gas with milsurp, the gun will run with commercial too, but you'll feel the action cycling harder.

So, its all pretty much ammo dependant.

 

[Coronach]

^^^^ That sounds about right.

Once you get the gas system adjusted, you should be able to use it with any quality ammo (commercial, milsurp), provided you adjust it properly. It's okay to have it cycle one fine and cycle the other a little harder, the stress this places on the weapon will be pretty minor. If you're inclined to worry, just change the settings from one to the other. Just don't set it up so that it always ejects brass into the next county.

Also, after you shoot a thousand rounds or so for the first time, go back and re-do the gas settings. If this rifle was not fired much before, it may not be broken in, and you may find out that you can reduce the amount of gas and still get good functioning once stuff has smoothed out.

Mike

 

[dodging230grainers]

slight confusion here- is the gas regulator the knob just behind the front sight, or the rotating lever stamped "A" in front of the front sight? I can't seem to move the cylinder behind the front sight with my finger.
thanks.

 

[ny32182]

The gas regulator is the knob just behind the front sight. It should be moveable by hand if it is clean, etc.. but they do make tools to move it. I'd give it a shot of CLP and see if it loosens up a little before buying the tool.

The rotating lever is located on the gas plug, which turn the gas on or off depending on which direction it is rotated. You can also rotate it to a position where it comes out the front of the gas block, which lets you take the piston and spring out for cleaning.

 

[kfranz]

The bottle opener on your swiss army knife or multi-tool will work fine to adjust the gas.