Intro...new to 223 loading -stuck case in setup. !$&@&$!!

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Hobobiker

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Hey all! Not new to reloading on my 650 and have been doing .45s for years. Just decided to switch over to 223 for a a few thousand rounds. Just an intro and a vent here. I was setting up my first tool head for brass processing. Lee universal decapping die in station one...works great. Redding small base FL resizing die in #3 is where I made my mistake. Using up the Hornady one shot I use on my .45 cases (yeah, I know, switching to a better lube or making my own), I didn't wait long enough for the lube to dry. Knowing that a small base die will feel tighter, but not knowing HOW it should feel yet, I didn't let up when I should have and stuck a case during setup. Pulled out my #7 drill, put the die upside down in my single RCBS, drilled it out, tapped with a 1/4-20 tap, inserted the bolt and yanked out the case. Unfortunately the pin and expander ball rod were bent.

So....I'm deciding now if I want to work with redding on getting a new die, or just using my existing one without the rod and expander ball and putting another die in #4 to open up the neck just enough for bullet insertion. Tested about ten cases tonight and the small base die is doing a nice job of getting the brass to fit nicely in my headspace/Case gauge.

Anyway, looking forward to reading through the forum and meeting some of you electronically. Also looking forward to getting my tool heads setup, processing some brass, and getting ready to reload some 223s.

Hobo
 
Welcome aboard! Did you damaged the die? If no, you should be able to order just the replacement rod and expander ball. Do you have the Lee resizing die? Have you tried the brass resized using a FL resizing die. I have both and find I hardly ever need the Small base die for .223 to get it fit in the case gauge. I believe Midway sells these parts for this die or you can get them direct from Redding. As long as the inside of the die isn't damaged I'd just replace the damaged parts.
 
I debated on whether to get a regular FL sizing die or small base. Since I shoot from multiple AR-15s and used mixed brass, most of the reading I did led me to purchase the small base FL sizing die. That said, I might have had similar luck like you using a regular die. Time and some experience may change my decision.

I have to say, I called Redding today and their customer service could not have been better. They are sending me a new top (rod, decapper pin, expander ball) at no charge, and even throwing in a sample or two of different lube to try. Great assistance over the phone.

I still may be inclined to use a Lyman "M" die to slightly open up the neck for the bullet and leave the expander ball off of the Redding die. I'll test a few to see what the runout looks like.

Hobo
 
I debated on whether to get a regular FL sizing die or small base. Since I shoot from multiple AR-15s and used mixed brass, most of the reading I did led me to purchase the small base FL sizing die. That said, I might have had similar luck like you using a regular die. Time and some experience may change my decision.

If your lubricating the case was not adequate, it would have made no difference between a small base die and a regular die as to whether the case would have gotten stuck. It is amazing how little difference there is between the two in the resizing.

In my opinion, a small base die is good insurance for loading for AR-15s. It's better to get a case stuck in the die instead of the chamber.:)

Hornady One Shot, at least in the aerosol can, has a definite "love it" or "hate it" relationship with reloaders. There seems to be no middle ground here.

I'd guess that one of the lubricants that Redding is sending will be Imperial Sizing Wax. Good Stuff.

Once you get the feeling of what a properly lubricated case feels like when resizing, you can adjust your mind set that if things do not feel right, stop and correct the problem before you pass the point of no routine.
 
I have the RCBS small based AR dies and love the Imperial Sizing Wax for bottleneck cartridges (a little goes a long way!). I do use the Hornady spray for straight walled pistol cartridges even though I am using carbide dies...
 
RCBS Lube dies #1 and #2, one for .223, the other for .308. Put lube directly on the pad, forget the lube hole. Best, cheapest and uses the least amount of total lube of any rifle reloading operation I've found.

BTW, you should break your rifle reloading down to two passes in your progressive.

1. to deprime, size and trim (if you have an on press trimmer) for the first pass.

2. After tumbling to clean lube off press, prime powder, place bullet, seat and crimp if so desired in second pass.
 
I use two passes through a progressive as well. Size/deprime in one pass, tumble, trim, hand prime, then another pass to load. Works for me. :)
 
I decap/size on a single stage press. I did do that operation on my 650 but it gunked it up (I like clean presses). I make my own case lube which is like dillons and usually don't stick cases. If I do it's easy to get the die out of a L&L single stage press and drill it out.
 
I'm planning two passes on my Dillon as well guys, and bought a separate tool head for exactly that purpose. Set everything up once and just switch the tool heads as needed...

Thanks for all the input!
 
I use OneShot for pistol brass the same as you.

I use lanolin homebrew for rifle cases. Youll never stick a case again.

I feel undersize dies are not worth the extra working they give the brass unless your AR has a very tight chamber that requires their use.

I 2 pass my brass as well, except I use a LnL. Lee decapper on 1, Hornady sizing die on 3. When loading, M die on 1, powder on 3, seater on 4, crimper on 5.
 
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