Is it worth reloading 357 magnum?

[KYregular]

My dad is pretty stoked now that he has a red dot on his 357 mag and wants to take it deer hunting (he’s got the skills, no worries about a clean shot there)

So I already make him .38spcl for plinking which drill 8” plates at 50 yards just using a turret press and knocking out plinker rounds. But we talked a little about making some 357 mag for him to hunt with. He has a handful of store bought hornady hunting loads that seem to shoot well.

Ok now that the backstory is out of the way here’s my question and some of our conversation/ consideration went:

1: We would have to buy brass, primers and projectiles. (I usually don’t have to buy brass, I got access to everything I need except 357).

2: I would likely treat it like a rifle round. Weigh out each charge by hand, trim, chamfer, debur, etc.

My comment to him was, with the cost and time going in to it and not really knowing if it’ll shoot much better than the store bought stuff, it may not be worth it, since he won’t go thru box after box of it. And frankly, I don’t know the first thing about 357 mag loading. (Is it just as consistent with a turret press, crimp/no crimp etc etc.)

So my question I guess is: for those who load 357mag for hunting only, is it worth all the effort?

All I can say is, remember when it was hard to find 357 on the shelf, much less at a decent price? Might be good to have a back up plan.

 

[Mstafford88]

All I can say is, remember when it was hard to find 357 on the shelf, much less at a decent price? Might be good to have a back up plan.

Good point

 

[stchman]

Yes, loading .357 Magnum is actually one of the calibers that makes sense to reload to save money. I can load .357 Mag for about $0.23 a round and commercial ammo goes for about $0.45 a round.

 

[splattergun]

"Worth it?" wrong question IMO. "How can I...?" is what I would ask.
You already have the .38 Spl components, so, why not just load some .38 Spl to +P+ specs? A .357 magnum would easily handle those pressures, which are roughly between .38 Spl and low .357 Mag specs. Check your velocities to calculate with bullet weight to find the energy and I'd bet you're within dead-whitetail terminal ballistics.
OTOH, he has "a handful" of Hornady .357 mag cartridges already. That's plenty of brass to start developing .357 mag hunting loads. You absolutely don't need a hundred pieces of brass for enough to hunt with. You already have projectiles and primers. Use what you have and don't worry about making hundreds, nor even dozens, of rounds. A handful will do when it's what you have.

 

[DMW1116]

Good point. I have a target 357 Mag load that uses W231 standard pistol powder. It won’t match one of the usual magnum powders but it’s for sure hotter than any 38 Special. For accuracy in my pistol I use the minimum charge from Hodgden, but pushing harder is certainly possible. The OPs revolver might shoot better with more powder.

 

[AJC1]

Yes, loading .357 Magnum is actually one of the calibers that makes sense to reload to save money. I can load .357 Mag for about $0.23 a round and commercial ammo goes for about $0.45 a round.

Wow don't know where your finding 357 mag for 25 a box but it's 80 to 90 cents a round on the shelf everywhere I go. The BB AND UNDERWOOD are crazy expensive. A 20 round box for 30-50 dollars.

 

[Mstafford88]

Shoot here 38spcl seems to be running like $30 a box according to my dad. I’m loading it at half that. Loading his really makes me miss my ruger LCR

 

[Old Grumpy]

The .357 Magnum is one of the first calibers I started loading. I might suggest looking at Alliant 2400, simply because 2400 does not require magnum primers and will give respectable velocity, on par with AA #9, Blue Dot, and IMR 4227. Consistent and accurate.

Grumpy

 

[bigpower491]

Yes

 

[Mstafford88]

Dumb question but let’s say I look for “38spcl hollow point” and it is described as such in the description either online or the box, would it be ok to use it for 357 mag? I assume as long as it’s rated for the velocities predicted it should be good right?

Also ref the +p+ suggestion: that load data isn’t typically published. Any suggestions there using cfe pistol, titegroup, or H110? I have small rifle and small pistol and assume I’d need small magnum and they are easy to find so I’m not worried about that. I’m so used to sticking by the book I don’t typically experiment with hot, above published loads

 

[Mstafford88]

Also have Alliant 2015 I use in 223 at the moment but not sure what is a typical 357 rated powder. Rather use what I have since I’ll be pouring money into an AR10 build and more 308 development soon.

 

[AJC1]

Also have Alliant 2015 I use in 223 at the moment but not sure what is a typical 357 rated powder. Rather use what I have since I’ll be pouring money into an AR10 build and more 308 development soon.

You just need to be in the magnum range of the burn rate chart. 223 loads are slower and in the rifle range. For mag velosity look from blue dot to 4227. Anything between is fine. Your h110 with srp is fine if dad's pistol sets them off.

 

[Anchorite]

Lots of good posts in this thread. As someone who has loaded 38/357s for 40-plus years, I’ll give you some free, but hard-earned advice.

No one ever saved money reloading. That said, the 357 is pleasure to load and shoot…..everything from mild to wild. It’s a versatile revolver round.

 

[Mark_Mark]

Belly up to the bar, me Laddies! Belly up and down a few!

I started my hunting life at around 10 with my Uncle’s 6-1/2” Blackhawk. Two years later I started learning to load my own. At 13 I got my own 4-5/8” Blackhawk and a Lyman’s Spartan press so I could load my own .38Spl and .357Mag.
The rest is history.

Why would you buy shelf ammo when you can make your own?

I’m working in North Carolina last weekend, took a trip to Palmetto State Armory to Denver NC. They had a New Model Python, and had to try it, So I bought a Box of Target .357 to try the gun, on my list gun.

I that’s why I bought a box of factory ammo.. I did keep the brass!

Side Note, Don’t know how many rounds are in that New Model Python… but, the trimming was off on one cylinder, and rear sight jiggles like jelly. Probably from non-revolver people slamming the cylinder shut. Anyways New Model Python is off my list for now. $1300 and the sight jiggles banchee

 

[DMW1116]

For target rounds I load 38 Special charges in 357 Mag cases. Hornady says to do so for their lead bullets. For a heavy load, I get all I want from a 158 grain XTP over 14.1 grains of Alliant 2400. Hornady max is 14.3. I haven’t tried H110 or N110 though I’d like to. I get data either from the Hornady app, Hodgden website, or Lyman reloading manuals. Hodgden has just about every powder you can think of, from W231 to W296. I haven’t tried any VV powders yet.

 

[splattergun]

Dumb question but let’s say I look for “38spcl hollow point” and it is described as such in the description either online or the box, would it be ok to use it for 357 mag? I assume as long as it’s rated for the velocities predicted it should be good right?

Also ref the +p+ suggestion: that load data isn’t typically published. Any suggestions there using cfe pistol, titegroup, or H110? I have small rifle and small pistol and assume I’d need small magnum and they are easy to find so I’m not worried about that. I’m so used to sticking by the book I don’t typically experiment with hot, above published loads

+P+ loads may not be "published" in your manual, but if you study the loads of .38 Spl and .357 Magnum you will find an empty zone, a No Man's Land of powder weights between the two. There you will find much area to ponder, study, and work with. You will also find my favorite 38 Spl .357 loads there.

 

[Mostly Lead]

What is "worth"? Economics, accuracy, pride of craftsmanship?

If you're more concerned about "worth" rather than enjoying the experience of creating something with your own hands and tools, then I'd say - for you - no, it's not "worth" it.

 

[Mr_Flintstone]

Dumb question but let’s say I look for “38spcl hollow point” and it is described as such in the description either online or the box, would it be ok to use it for 357 mag? I assume as long as it’s rated for the velocities predicted it should be good right?

Also ref the +p+ suggestion: that load data isn’t typically published. Any suggestions there using cfe pistol, titegroup, or H110? I have small rifle and small pistol and assume I’d need small magnum and they are easy to find so I’m not worried about that. I’m so used to sticking by the book I don’t typically experiment with hot, above published loads

Check out https://americanhandgunner.com/handguns/the-3844-heavy-duty/ There is a lot of information there about the 38/44, which is the 38 Special cartridge that the .357 Magnum was developed from. Regardless of whether you call it 38 Special +P+, 38 Magnum, or something else, this is basically what you need to look at.

 

[Mstafford88]

Finally got the First batch made up for him to test. Had to get the money together for some projectiles and stuff but we are off to a good start.
16.5 (+-.1gr) H110
Cci small pistol mag

 

[dh1633pm]

I think it is. When ammo is dry, you always have a source. You don’t have to wait in line for a mother may I, wait your probably not in New York. Any even if you don’t. It’s good peace of mind to have what’s needed to do for yourself

 

[Mstafford88]

I’m in VA and everything has skyrocketed in price from when I started reloading….. IF you can find it. Big box places like sportsman’s is always dry. Small local places are the only ones who do. Projectiles I buy online but primers and powder have to be done in store. Even at a higher price it’s still cheaper than the joke that is the “hazmat fee”

 

[AJC1]

No.
But I save by casting my own bullets & reloading brass 15 times on average.

Box of 50 reloads $32.50 (New Starline brass, Hornady 158 gr jhp. ($.65 each round)
Box of 50 factory Federal ammo $37.00

Priced @ Midwayusa.

View attachment 1172772

The Hornaday case is trimed to 1.250 so I don't consider their cases reusable like everyone else. I use federal as my test cases and love them. Rp cases are thin and I have had problems with them buckling with heavy 170/180 bullets.

 

[AJC1]

I’m in VA and everything has skyrocketed in price from when I started reloading….. IF you can find it. Big box places like sportsman’s is always dry. Small local places are the only ones who do. Projectiles I buy online but primers and powder have to be done in store. Even at a higher price it’s still cheaper than the joke that is the “hazmat fee”

My buddy lives in VA and reports the same struggle in finding things. If you use a powder in common with another loading, in your case 296/h110 you might consider the value in grabbing an 8 vise searching all over God's green acre for singles. Once you commit grab 1k spm for him 1k srp for you and an 8 of either from midway, powder valley or midsouth. You will have the resources to make what you can't buy. In worse case you have to cast bullets, but your not making primers.

 

[Bobaloo22]

You are right, I live near Fredericksburg here in Virginia and we have a new Academy and Sportsman’s but there is so much competition there’s nothing left that I need when I get there.

 

[lordpaxman]

I’m late to the thread but looking forward to a range report.

I’ll have factory ammo on hand, but develop loads for all the calibers I have. You never know when you’re going to need some and can’t buy it.

Thanks for the clarification on the trim. I never trim any other handgun load either but I’ve also never dealt with the science of magnum handgun loads and how it affects brass.

I do trim cartridges that I roll crimp. Not so much to get them to the trim length but to get them all a consistent length. Roll crimps are fussy that way.

It’s always fun to load 5 38s and 1 357 - kinda makes a statement at the line.