Is lake city the best common .223 brass?

Status
Not open for further replies.

jeeptim

Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2010
Messages
890
Location
California
Asking this because I was sold on R.P. as it had no crimped primers a good reputation and plentiful .
I have had four R.P. come apart in the middle seems different then case head seperation as its between the head and shoulder. This Was only the 2nd/3rd reload not hot
I now have the ability to remove crimps. I have several thousend lake city i can switch to also have seversl k of f.c.
Think I will be going down the LC road I do notice some LC crimps are stabbed some normal. Any difference in reloading and why do they do this?
 
RP is good brass. Case separations can be anywhere from just above the head to just below the shoulder. LC is good brass, but can have them just like any other brass if the conditions are right.

Pics?

So, buy LC with confidence, and double check how far you are moving the shoulder when sizing.
 
RP brass is generally thinner than most other brands of brass but I dont think it is enough of a difference to make case head separations a common thing in 223. It could be a bad batch of brass, you could be working your brass too much or a million other possibilities. The only common 223 brass that I avoid reloading is federal FC brass. It is soft brass and is typically only good for two reloads before the primer pockets wont hold a primer. Lake city brass is excellent quality for 5 cents a piece or less. Often times you can get brass all from the same lot. You do have to either ream out or swage the primer pocket crimp but with a swager die, it only takes a couple seconds per case. Primer pockets start out tight and stay tight.
 
Those stabbed crimps (usually 3 or 4) may be modified WWII dies the arsenal still uses when production is at its peak on all lines making ammo. I wouldn't reload them because they won't completely go away and necks won't have the same grip on bullets as crimped case mouths that's resized. They may well won't be as accurate. Try reloading some then test them.
 
Last edited:
necks won't have the same grip on bullets as crimped case mouths that's resized

I don't understand what this means? Please clarify :)

Another question regarding that crimped FC brass. Is this new military production? I've also had problems with premature loose primer pockets in commercial FC in the past, and wonder if the new crimped stuff is better?

Thanks.

Laphroaig
 
Laphroaig, to clarify......

Roll or taper crimps on case mouths are pretty much ironed out completely when the sizing die shrinks them down then expands them back up. What little difference there is compared to uncrimped case mouths is insignificant. I've known a few folks who run such fired 30 caliber case mouths over a 31 or 32 caliber expander ball before full length sizing them to the case neck's very straight all the way to the mouth before full length sizing.

Those tiny dents/dimples in stamp crimped case necks typically don't iron out smooth and completely eliminated by sizing the fired case neck down then expanding it back up. So, there'll be a different amount of case neck grip on the bullets; typically less. Which means less force/pressure in the case from burning powder's needed to push the bullet out. That'll change its muzzle velocity. And if a lot less, bullets in the magazine may shift in the necks from recoil.
 
RP is good brass. Case separations can be anywhere from just above the head to just below the shoulder. LC is good brass, but can have them just like any other brass if the conditions are right.

Pics?

So, buy LC with confidence, and double check how far you are moving the shoulder when sizing.
Walkalong, what would be the easiest yet accurate way to make this measurements? Or do I need a new piece of equipment to measure how far the shoulder moves?

I don't know if LC is the best or not, I can say it is fine for me. While removing the crimp is not fun, at least it is some assurance that it is indeed only once fired...

As far LC brass (.223/5.56) I haven't had trouble with the ones with four stakes, as far as reloading is concerned but I can not speak to accuracy as they were mixed in with the circular crimps. I didn't notice any difference shooting but this was range fodder at 75 to 100 yards. I will separate some and test further with better bullets. Mine were basic Hornady 55 grain FMJ.

Russellc
 
Last edited:
I don't know if there is any significant difference, but the "staked" ones I had were 4 stakes, not three...probably makes no difference?

Russellc
 
Thankyou sir! I thought he was speaking about the primer crimp, maybe not.

Russellc
 
I assumed so when I first read it as well, but Bart got me thinking, and he may be right, it might be the bullet crimp the OP was talking about.
 
Oh, and thanks for the links. Read them and have sent you a PM as to not mess on the thread with off topic:eek:

Russellc
 
Very nice article! Lots of good info on AR 15 Accuracy with Prairie Dogs, all about loads, bullets etc. Not finding info on shoulder set back? (Maybe you were addressing somthing else....Getting tired, maybe I missed it.) Tons of good info here...will reread later.

Bookmarked for sure!

Russellc
 
Those stabbed crimps (usually 3 or 4) may be modified WWII dies the arsenal still uses when production is at its peak on all lines making ammo.
I thought the OP said .223. Did they use .223 dies in WWII? How would they modify 30 caliber dies for 223?
 
Replace the die stamping part with one having a smaller diameter inner hole and longer stamp parts. The cartridge handling machinery would also have to be changed. In essence, what ever is needed.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top