Just did my first S&W trigger spring swap

[Riomouse911]

I have a batch of K- frames that I love shooting, but each one has a bit different trigger feel. I decided to buy a bunch of the Wolff spring kits to improve the trigger pull and sort of “standardize” the feel with similar parts. These are range guns and not duty guns, so I bought some K-L-N frame no. 2 reduced power mainspring and rebound slide spring kits from Wolff (and a few other things, too). After waiting about a month, they came in the mail the other day.



At first I thought about paying someone to install the kits, as I hadn’t done this type of work on revolvers before. However, I watched the You Tube videos of Larry Potterfield and Jerry Michulek and got the gist of what it entails. They make it look super easy, but there wasn’t a whole lot to it so I got to work.

For those who may not have done this stuff before here are a few pics of what I did that sort of deviated from the two videos.



After removing the side plate (keep the screws set in order so they go back in the right holes) and removing the mainspring by undoing tension on the screw on the grip frame, I cleaned out the innards using q-tips. The guns sure did get a bit of crud in them after years of use.

I used a small flathead screwdriver to lift the rebound slide from the frame. I held my thumb over the end as I raised it past the pin that retains the spring so it wouldn’t fire across my garage.

When the rebound slide was removed I cleaned it and very lightly sanded the bottom edge smooth using 2000 grit wet-dry from the auto parts store set flat on my workbench to smooth the surface. The bottom is smooth as glass now.



I didn’t do any other surface smoothing. I am not confident in my ability to smooth only what’s needed, and then reassemble all the small parts.

The kits came with 13-14-15 pound rebound slide springs. I selected the 13 lb rebound slide spring after reviewing a bunch of threads on several forums.

I did not have the rebound slide spring tool that both Larry and Jerry used, so I got a wide flathead screwdriver and used this to compress the new spring into the rebound slide in order to get the spring to rest against the pin. (The spring tool would make this easier, I may just buy one as I perform this task for the rest of my guns.)



A light touch of lube on each pin, a q-tip to clean up any excess, and the guns went together so easily it’s scary.

Now the DA pull is a touch over 8 lbs and SA is at about 3 pounds 7 oz. Best of all it’s smoooooth!



I can’t wait to hit the range and see how my groups improve.

Stay safe.

 

[a5werkes]

I like to use a piece of cardboard to keep the screws organized.

 

[Ohen Cepel]

Nice write up.

A piece of glass laying on my bench with some polishing compound on it is what I use to polish the rebound slide. Keeps it flat by using the glass as a surface.

 

[a5werkes]

I also like to address all of the bearing surfaces of the rebound slide, its bearing surfaces in the frame, the internal spring channel and make sure the spring itself does not have any barbs on the spring ends. A light touch with a polishing tip works well for the radius surfaces.

 

[Riomouse911]

At this point I don’t have any formal (or even informal) training or experience with the innards of the S&W revolver system so I was hesitant to do more than these simple steps as my first venture.

When I retire and can devote more time to learning about the whats to do, and avoiding the whats not to do, I’ll feel more confident about removing more of the action parts and touching up those little surfaces that you’re all doing .

Thanks for the input and suggestions, it’s all good stuff!

Stay safe.

 

[Reeferman]

I have a batch of K- frames that I love shooting, but each one has a bit different trigger feel. I decided to buy a bunch of the Wolff spring kits to improve the trigger pull and sort of “standardize” the feel with similar parts. These are range guns and not duty guns, so I bought some K-L-N frame no 2 reduced power mainspring and rebound slide spring kits from Wolff (and a few other things, too). After waiting about a month, they came in the mail the other day.

View attachment 1009003

At first I thought about paying someone to install the kits, as I hadn’t done this type of wirk on revolvers before. However, I watched the You Tube videos of Larry Potterfield and Jerry Michulek and got the gist of what it entails. They make it look super easy, but there wasn’t a whole lot to it so I got to work.

For those who may not have done this stuff before here are a few pics of what I did that sort of deviated from the two videos.

View attachment 1009004

After removing the side plate (keep the screws set in order so they go back in the right holes) and removing the mainspring by undoing tension on the screw on the grip frame, I cleaned out the innards using q-tips. The guns sure don’t get a bit of crud in them after years of use.

I used a small flathead screwdriver to lift the rebound slide from the frame. I held my thumb over the end as I raised it past the pin that retains the spring so it wouldn’t fire across my garage.

When the rebound slide was removed I cleaned it and very lightly sanded the bottom edge smooth using 2000 grit wet-dry from the auto parts store set flat on my workbench to smooth the surface. The bottom is smooth as glass now.

View attachment 1009000 View attachment 1009002

I didn’t do any other surface smoothing. I am not confident in my ability to smooth only what’s needed, and then reassemble all the small parts.

The kits came with 13-14-15 pound rebound slide springs. I selected the 13 lb rebound slide spring after reviewing a bunch of threads on several forums.

I did not have the rebound slide spring tool that both Larry and Jerry used, so I got a wide flathead screwdriver and used this to compress the new spring into the rebound slide in order to get the spring to rest against the pin. (The spring tool would make this easier, I may just buy one as I perform this task for the rest of my guns.)

View attachment 1009001

A light touch of lube on each pin, a q-tip to clean up any excess, and the guns went together so easily it’s scary.

Now the DA pull is a touch over 8 lbs and SA is at about 3 pounds 7 oz. Best of all it’s smoooooth!

View attachment 1009007

I can’t wait to hit the range and see how my groups improve.

Stay safe.

There are several who make rebound sprung tools and many home made ones. I use https://gunsmithertools.com/ and are very well made and do what he says they do.

 

[Riomouse911]

There are several who make rebound sprung tools and many home made ones. I use https://gunsmithertools.com/ and are very well made and do what he says they do.

My S&W armorer buddy (who I consulted prior to doing this) said he made one by cutting a notch in an old flathead screwdriver with a dremel using a cutting wheel. I looked for a crummy screwdriver to convert, but all of mine are still in good enough shape that I hated altering one for what may have been a one-time use. I was able to swing it using the larger flathead, but I think I’ll follow your suggestion and go get the proper tool for the next project(s).

Stay safe.

 

[a5werkes]

I use a fabricated brass punch with Brownells blank screwdriver handle as well as a modified Brownell specific tool for the rebound spring installation.

 

[Pat Riot]

I like to use a piece of cardboard to keep the screws organized.

I do the same thing for keeping track of screw and hardware locations. I have been using that idea for over 40 years. Great minds…

 

[George P]

My S&W armorer buddy (who I consulted prior to doing this) said he made one by cutting a notch in an old flathead screwdriver with a dremel using a cutting wheel. I looked for a crummy screwdriver to convert, but all of mine are still in good enough shape that I hated altering one for what may have been a one-time use. I was able to swing it using the larger flathead, but I think I’ll follow your suggestion and go get the proper tool for the next project(s).

Stay safe.

It really is easier to just buy the tools since you said you have a bunch to do. I only have maybe 6 or 7 S&W and I bought the tool' it makes it SO much easier.

 

[rabid wombat]

There are several who make rebound sprung tools and many home made ones. I use https://gunsmithertools.com/ and are very well made and do what he says they do.

Gunsmithertools are good people! Buy with confidence. I have bought a lot for him.

@Riomouse911 much more ambitious than I am, great work!

 

[v8stang289]

I've done several, and I did what Jerry said in this vid and used a cheap ballpoint pen to install the spring. Works great and is cheap.

 

[rabid wombat]

Jerry said

That always says a lot!

 

[Reeferman]

Gunsmithertools are good people! Buy with confidence. I have bought a lot for him.

@Riomouse911 much more ambitious than I am, great work!

I have just about everything that Joe has for sale. He quit selling out of the USA awhile ago which sucks but I understand. All his tools are “why didn’t I think of that” simple, functional and well built.

 

[SGW Gunsmith]

At this point I don’t have any formal (or even informal) training or experience with the innards of the S&W revolver system so I was hesitant to do more than these simple steps as my first venture.

When I retire and can devote more time to learning about the whats to do, and avoiding the whats not to do, I’ll feel more confident about removing more of the action parts and touching up those little surfaces that you’re all doing .

Thanks for the input and suggestions, it’s all good stuff!

Stay safe.

Hey Rio, with the number of Smith & Wesson revolvers you obviously own, you might consider getting Jerry Kuhnhausen's book, "The S&W Revolver-A Shop Manual", available from Brownells. This book, and all of his other shop manuals are a 'wealth' of information concerning all the revolver frames that S&W offers. He goes into detail that is very thorough, and often I find it a bit more handy to have that book near my bench rather than my cluttered 'puter area, to work in front of rather than my bench.
Looks like you have enough parts available now to see if any of the neighbors need something done to 'smooth' their S&W's.


Dennis