Just got a new Teslong Bore Scope

Nature Boy said:
Yeah, that’s all nonsense.

It’s just maintenance.

No need to change the oil in your car at regular intervals. Ignorance is bliss. Just drive it.

Looking forward to seeing the after pics
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I think those comments are generally true when you talk about rust, tool chatter, etc.

I have turned in good groups with what looks like a sewer pipe under a bore scope.

There are barrel problems you just can't fix sometimes, but if it shoots well, it's better not to know ;)
 
emb said:
Well, 2 bronze brushes and 350-400 strokes later, here you go. I probably wasn't using the newest and best product, but it was what I had-Break Free CAC Carbon Cutter. I honestly don't remember when I bought it. Still had a $7 price tag on it. I finished with JB Bore Bright and Hoppes #9. The carbon ring is still there though.View attachment 1206203View attachment 1206204View attachment 1206205View attachment 1206206View attachment 1206207View attachment 1206208View attachment 1206209
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Great job!!
One way to get the ring out, use a favorite paste like jb or Iosso etc on a bore mope and apply short strokes right at the throat area without a bore guide. Place a piece of blue tape over the trigger area to prevent debris and contamination.
Again stain is ok build up needs to go
 
emb said:
The question is how to prevent this condition in the future? Just add a carbon removal to the routine and inspect regularly?
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That's the answer for me. Clean the guns when you get home from the range and the fouling is fresh. Do this a few times, checking with your borescope, and you'll figure out how much cleaning and how often brushing might be needed. I usually wet patch a couple times, dry patch, wet brush maybe 10 strokes and then dry patch again. If you have a carbon ring in the chamber, you can soak a patch in C4 and let that sit in the chamber end for awhile, an hour or two, and then dry patch again to see if that cleans it up. I use a pistol rod and plastic jag for that chamber soaking.
 
Nice photo's you're showing. Do they provide useful software with your Teslong scopes, or do they have you use what's on windows or your phone?
Is the rod marked like a ruler for reference? That was a good video. I've been looking for some good instruction on what good and bad look like in a bore so this thread was helpful.
 
The scope runs on the camera app with Windows 10 and 11. Literally, you open the app, reverse the view, and the scope is on and operational. I used that for these pictures. The phone requires you to download an app. I did not want to use my phone for this. You can get a model that comes with a camera. In all the scope is relatively low tech and cheap-less than $100 (without the separate camera). The Teslong scope was recommended by members here on different threads. Amazon has a model for $55. But I wanted a rigid rather than a flexible rod and went with the newer more expensive model to get that, and I didn't need the separate camera. The rod is marked liked a ruler. It's also worth going to Teslong's website for instruction. I learned there that you focus the camera by moving the mirror in or out depending on the caliber. The written directions on that point aren't that useful. If you know anything about how to operate your computer, there is a zero-learning curve. I had absolutely no issues, and I'm not very tech savvy. My learning curve is: what am I looking at and what do I do about it. When I first saw my barrel, well, frankly I felt panicky and kind of sick. Feeling better now.
 
Thanks EMB. The scope I have does what yours does. Additionally, it came with some software. and a hard case. As it is with some manufacturers, the version 1.0 software they ship STAYS at 1.0 forever. Then as computer software versions march on, it becomes SO obsolete it's won't work correctly. So, anything that comes with WINDOWS is my software. No complaints, that's life. The scope is also useful for looking into blind holes and other stuff. Nice tool.
 
emb said:
Thank you. I plan on shooting this rifle this weekend. Although it's primarily a hunting rifle, it's capable of sub minute groups at 200 yds. It'll be interesting to the difference.
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Strangely enough...

Might not be able to expect the first couple on a fresh clean bore to behave. Residue from cleaning agents etc... I'll run a dry patch or two through the bore before shooting, but still need a couple shots off target.

Many (me included) load a few spare rounds as "foulers" along with however many you actually want to shoot. I stick a dot somewhere out of the way and shoot 1 or 2 before concentrating on a target.
 
GH, I appreciate your comments. This rifle has never needed a fouling shot. But except for the day I bought it home, it probably has never been this clean before. You're most likely correct. We'll see what happens.
 
Not from this rifle. The 2 loads I primarily shoot use 140 grn Accubonds and 160 grn Sierra Gamekings. I've also used 162 grn Hornady Interlocks. I'd have to go back and look at my notes, but I don't think I've used any other bullet brands other than Nosler, Hornady and Sierra. I do have a 450 Marlin that I'm going to need to clean up that I load with a 250 grn TSX Barnes bullet.
 
Cool. Jus
emb said:
Not from this rifle. The 2 loads I primarily shoot use 140 grn Accubonds and 160 grn Sierra Gamekings. I've also used 162 grn Hornady Interlocks. I'd have to go back and look at my notes, but I don't think I've used any other bullet brands other than Nosler, Hornady and Sierra. I do have a 450 Marlin that I'm going to need to clean up that I load with a 250 grn TSX Barnes bullet.
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Just beware if you don't already know: Copper and Lead seem to layer on each other. If you shoot Copper after shooting Lead, you need to go back to bare metal in barrel again afterward. Like that old saying: "whiskey after beer...." , Copper after Lead is causing loss of grouping for some folks.
 
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Here's another dumb question. I looked at my AR10. It was absolutely black, lands and groves, from the throat to about 6" from the throat. The rest of barrel looked pretty good. So, I got to scrubbing. I did get some black out, but mostly the patches were mostly blue indicating copper. Does the carbon somehow mix with the copper-thus the black color? I have only shot Hornady FMJs and Varget through this rifle somewhere in the neighborhood of 1000-1200 rounds. It is coming out but slowly. Prior to starting, I used some CR10 and got no copper out.
 
It is my opinion that copper is the first thing that gets on the lands near the throat then towards the muzzle, carbon builds on top of that. Bore tech eliminator, Montana Extreme or Barnes will get that out
 
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I know, right. I'm thinking it's tool marks. The AR 10 is a DPMS. Nevertheless, with or without the tool marks, it does shoot. This is me shooting at 100 yds. I dropped 2 of the 10. IMG_20160508_104736120_HDR.jpg
 
Eight rifles cleaned up-mostly. I still need to work on the carbon ring in each. The Remington 7600 30.06 still has a little carbon fouling that I'll continue to work on. I have to clean that rifle from the muzzle, and I'm waiting on a better bore guide to be delivered before getting too aggressive. The B & C cone shaped ones are pretty worthless. I ended up using a universal that came with the cleaning rod that did just ok. I'm hoping that the Dewey bore guide will be better. Interesting note: When the patches came out without black but with copper, I switched to copper remover until just slightly blue. Then back to C4 where I again got black on the patches. Eventually, I had to switch back to the copper remover and so on. Note to self: Never ever do this again.
 
Hugger, I have that one. I also have a Dewey, and a stainless Pro Shot. The rod I was using is coated steel, Klean Bore. I came with a rubber muzzle guard which will not fit the other rods. The issue I had was the neither the Tipton nor the Dewey rods were stout enough, without the chamber to support it, to begin to push a new bronze brush into the bore from the muzzle. Once I get a decent bore guide, I hope to use the Pro Shot. I was afraid to use that one without a guide.
 
emb said:
Hugger, I have that one. I also have a Dewey, and a stainless Pro Shot. The rod I was using is coated steel, Klean Bore. I came with a rubber muzzle guard which will not fit the other rods. The issue I had was the neither the Tipton nor the Dewey rods were stout enough, without the chamber to support it, to begin to push a new bronze brush into the bore from the muzzle. Once I get a decent bore guide, I hope to use the Pro Shot. I was afraid to use that one without a guide.
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Adding a couple drops of oil ( lube ) to your new brush is a real a game changer.
 
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I got a Teslong a couple of years ago and felt much like you, embarrased that I had let them get that bad. You don't know what you don't know.
I have told a number of friends that if they are doing the standard Hoppes #9 swabs and alternating dry patches until you get a mostly clean one you are not coming close to getting all the carbon out. I wasn't, and I still struggle with how clean is clean. Break out a scope and you know. Now you get to experiment with all the fancy cleaners out there. I have found nothing beats time and elbow grease :)
-Jeff
 
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Time, elbow grease, JBs, Bore Tech, Slip 2000 and a boat load of bronze brushes. We're becoming right familiar with each other and regular deliveries of cleaning supplies and products from Brownells and Amazon. :) Nothing to do about it except stop when I get to the last gun, and I'm not even close yet. I really appreciate everyone's help. When I tell folks at our range, some laugh-a lot, some give you that oh crap look, and many more were like me-clueless.
 
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