Kibler Kit

Sorry to hear about your difficulties hawg, but I know you will be able to overcome them. You don't seem to be the type of guy who would let these, shall we say, "challenges" prevent you from completing a rifle of which you will be proud.
 
I want a Kibler southern mountain rifle... need to decide on the caliber... this should be the year.... should done it twice already. I keep thinking .40 but then think .36 or .45 would be great... ugh
 
How's he going to fix a broken sear over the phone? I talked to a retired master builder on another forum. He said snapping the lock with it out of the gun without a fly caused it to catch the half cock notch. He also to me I could stone the tip and it might work. It didn't. He said I "might" be able to bend the bottom leg of the spring down to put pressure on the sear. I tried and it broke. So next month I'll order a new sear, spring and fly. I had an unexpected expense and my bank account is cleaned out for this month.
Sorry for your trouble Hawg, didn’t realize the sear was broken.
 
Sorry to hear about your difficulties hawg, but I know you will be able to overcome them. You don't seem to be the type of guy who would let these, shall we say, "challenges" prevent you from completing a rifle of which you will be proud.

If there's a way to muck something up I'll find it.
4f is for the pan is it not? N pyrodex does not work well if at all in a flintlock... don't ask how I was reminded of that :p

4F, 3F and 2F will all work in the pan. 4F will be the fastest.
 
I finally got it all together except for the ramrod and replacing the broken lock parts. Mistakes were made and I may fix some of them later on but probably won't.

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Yes it does look great. The wood looks nice. Hey, just stick some fire-cracker fuse in the touch hole and flick your Bic. :) Kibler not interested in sending you the parts you need?

Thanks. It's not Kibler. I won't have the money until next month. I had an unexpected expense this month that cleaned me out.
 
Despite the problems I think the wood and the finish of stock look great! You should not look at the flaws that only you will notice but look at the magnificent firearm you have created.

I can do that easy enough. It does bother me a little because I wanted it to be perfect but I knew going into it that it wouldn't be. I'm happy it turned out as good as it did.
 
Yay me lol. I got the ramrod to fit. I chucked it up in a drill and ran the metal tipped end down and got it in until it bottomed out. I worked it back and forth maybe ten times, I wasn't counting. It was still tight and I couldn't pull it back out without the drill. I chucked the metal tip up in the drill and ran the big end down until it bottomed out and then worked it back and forth. It fit better but it was still tight but at least I could pull it back out without the drill. I chucked the ramrod up in the drill and hit the tip and about 12 inches of rod with a coarse file. Then I hit it with a piece of coarse emery cloth and some 220 grit sandpaper. Now it fits like it should. I'm going to wait until I work up a load for it before I cut it off.
 
If it is I'll just turn it down again. At least next time I won't have to worry about the hole itself.


Insofar as the fly problem you had I also did the same thing with a Cherry Corners Hawken lock that came with one of the old Ithaca repro kits. I just happened to have an old S&W "N" frame hammer that had an intact stirrup attached........pulled it and found that with just a little shaping I had a working fly.............that was back around '80 or '81........still have the rifle and that lock is still functioning with my jury rigged part. Just thought I'd mention what I did and wanted to compliment you on your work......you know of every niddling screw up you did....others won't, and by golly it looks good!!
 
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