Kibler Kit

Well, yesterday afternoon I put a coat of LMF browning on my steel parts and about an hour ago I checked it and nothing, nada, zip. Metal was just as white as when I put it on. So I put another coat on and before I got done the first parts had already turned black. I guess it's going to work after all.
 
hawg said:
Well, yesterday afternoon I put a coat of LMF browning on my steel parts and about an hour ago I checked it and nothing, nada, zip. Metal was just as white as when I put it on. So I put another coat on and before I got done the first parts had already turned black. I guess it's going to work after all.
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You may need more humidity to get LMF to work. I made a sweat box to brown parts that works pretty good.
 
hawg said:
It's 90% humidity here. I don't think I need a humidity box.
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I've had the best luck with the sweat box temp 80-90 degrees and humidity around 90 percent. Too much humidity will leave water beading on the parts diluting the LMF and leaving a blotchy finish.
 
Well I had a beautiful hand rubbed finish on the stock but when you looked close it had flaws. I got it a little too thick and had a few runs and there was a couple of places that looked like I didn't get the wood sanded smooth enough. I think it was that even tho I wiped it down with a wet rag after sanding it didn't get all the dust off because once I got through the hand rubbed coat there were no sanding marks I could see and I didn't see any before I put the first goat on. I discovered left behind dust after I wiped it down after removing the last coat. I hope nothing turns up on the next coat because I'm not sanding it down again. I know never say never. :pThe steel is starting to look pretty good. I've already rounded off some of the sharp corners on the trigger guard with files and sandpaper so I said the heck with it, I can't do much more damage so I broke out the Dremel and used a coarse sanding drum to take out the parting lines and am using a felt wheel with jewelers rouge for the polishing. So far I haven't done any more damage and what I've done so far looks pretty decent. I've already done the nose cap, most of the butt plate and side plate the hard way and I'll probably finish the butt plate the hard way as well as the ramrod thimbles. I'll probably use the Dremel on the entry pipe. This has been a learning experience. I don't think it's one I care to repeat. At least not with brass. I thought brass would be easier to work and it is but it's also easier to mess up. It should look pretty good when I'm done, at least from a few feet away. It may not pass a close inspection.
 
Never say never. I sanded down the stock and put a new coat of hand rubbed oil on it. When I finished I was checking it for runs and drips when I spotted a dog hair in it. I tried to get it out and got yet another dog hair in it. The more I tried to get them out the more that got in it SHEESH!!!!
 
It's dried enough to handle and there's no sign of dog hair. 🤔 However I must have gone too deep with sanding in places as it's kind of splotchy looking. I'm going to try another coat tomorrow and see how it looks. I may end up sanding it all the way down to the wood.:(
 
Ditch the False-Oil. !!!! rubbing in "real" oil beats "applying" a finish. I've never had good results with "tru" oil. It did seem to work better when I "cut" it with other oils, or maybe adding a little false-oil to other oil. But straight, for me, it sucks. Eventually gave up on it all together.
 
Ugly Sauce said:
Ditch the False-Oil. !!!! rubbing in "real" oil beats "applying" a finish. I've never had good results with "tru" oil. It did seem to work better when I "cut" it with other oils, or maybe adding a little false-oil to other oil. But straight, for me, it sucks. Eventually gave up on it all together.
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I hear ya. It was a beautiful finish and would have probably gone unnoticed but I couldn't leave well enough alone.
 
Never been fond of Tru oil myself. I prefer an oil based polyurethane. Not traditional but it's a good hard finish.
 
Anything polyurethane can be "okay", if it's put on as the very-very-very last coat, after much hand rubbing of real oils. These days Danish Oil is my go-to, but again after many rubbed in coats of real oil, be it tung, walnut oil, grapeseed, etc. or combinations of.

I did my Rossi, which I didn't feel required any traditional type of finish, with "Minwax Tung oil finish", which I highly doubt contained any tung oil. Can says: "for interior use only". ?? Yes, a little too shiney for my taste, but it's hard and durable, and water proof, in spite of for interior use only. Good for trekking far into the back country, where conditions could turn harsh. Where am I going with this? Truth in advertising!! Many wood finish products are not what they say they are, such as "tru" oil.
 
Been using polyurethane finishes forever, don't need to put anything on before except stain. I like alcohol based stains over oil based ones.
 
hawg said:
I used a damp rag.
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Hawg, in my admittedly limited experience, a damp rag can't be relied upon to really get rid of all the sanding dust etc. whereas a tack cloth picks it up like a magnet. You sure have put a lot of effort into finishing your stock so far and it would be a shame if some errant particulate matter messed it up again for you. At any rate I admire your fortitude in wanting to do the very best job you can and believe you will have many years of enjoyment with your new rifle.
 
Acorn Mush said:
Hawg, in my admittedly limited experience, a damp rag can't be relied upon to really get rid of all the sanding dust etc. whereas a tack cloth picks it up like a magnet. You sure have put a lot of effort into finishing your stock so far and it would be a shame if some errant particulate matter messed it up again for you. At any rate I admire your fortitude in wanting to do the very best job you can and believe you will have many years of enjoyment with your new rifle.
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I've used tack cloths before. I don't like them. They leave residue behind. Besides I'd have to drive 50 miles to get them.
 
hawg said:
I've used tack cloths before. I don't like them. They leave residue behind. Besides I'd have to drive 50 miles to get them.
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Thank you for teaching me something. I didn't know about them leaving residue. Having to driving 50 miles to get one seems a pretty fair reason not to use one as well.
 
Acorn Mush said:
Thank you for teaching me something. I didn't know about them leaving residue. Having to driving 50 miles to get one seems a pretty fair reason not to use one as well.
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I used to paint cars and used tack rags with success but I tried them a few times on wood and didn't like the results. I was always having to go back over them with mineral spirits to remove the residue. A wet rag usually does pretty good on modern stocks but I guess this one being so long it doesn't work so well.
 
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