Kibler Kit

I found this post by Jim on the Longrifles forum.
Green Mountain bores and reams all of our bar stock barrel blanks. They rifle everything .45 caliber and above. We rifle .40, .36 and .32 calibers as they declined to do these calibers for us.
All other work is done in our shop.

Thanks!
Jim
 
hawg said:
According to a master builder on another forum (not that one) Colerain barrels look like dog poop on the outside. My barrel is a Green Mountain. I don't know what they look like out of the box but Jim does the swamping so any major roughness is taken out during the process. I probably could have browned it without doing anything. I do not know what his barrels that aren't swamped look like. His SMR barrels are Rice barrels. I don't know what they look like either.
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My barrel must be Pre-Poop, as it was finished very nice...for sure was not dog-poop. !!! Current production maybe. ?
 
The colerains would clean up in the bore pretty good with some scorch Brite. They were the cheapest BP barrels, not sure if kilber used them very long maybe between getting barrels made from gm. The rice barrels are popular mostly I think because there groves are rounded over some and don't cut patched as much. Some barrels have different rifleing deaths so some may like thinner or thicker patches. All barrels today can shoot pretty good, some may just take some experimenting.
 
troy fairweather said:
The colerains would clean up in the bore pretty good with some scorch Brite. They were the cheapest BP barrels, not sure if kilber used them very long maybe between getting barrels made from gm. The rice barrels are popular mostly I think because there groves are rounded over some and don't cut patched as much. Some barrels have different rifleing deaths so some may like thinner or thicker patches. All barrels today can shoot pretty good, some may just take some experimenting.
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I may be wrong but I don't think Kibler ever used Colerain barrels. I know they used Rice for awhile.
 
troy fairweather said:
No don't think so, though that ugly sauce was thinking that.
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Actually I was thinking Hawg/the Kiblers had a Rice barrel for some reason. The Colerains may have been less expensive, compare to GM or Rice, but certainly not a "cheap" barrel. I remember that my barrel alone cost as much as a complete TC or Traditions, or Lyman rifle at the time. Same as the lock.

My Colerain has round bottom grooves, which makes clean up easier, I believe. I think the square cut rifling is a bit more accurate, generally speaking. As my rifle is strictly for hunting and trekking, a 1/2" MOA increase in accuracy is not a concern.
 
troy fairweather said:
All are green mountain barrels now, early guns had rice and went away from them because of cost and not meeting his standards. Belive all kibler barrels are swamped, think the 36 and 32 he rifles himself on his lathe which is a cool video to check out.
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40’s too as far as I know.
 
Here's where I am on the trigger guard and butt plate. It looks like I need to do a little more polishing on the inside of the trigger bow. The camera really brings out the flaws.

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A lot more work to be done here.

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I'm calling this part of the butt plate finished.

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The patch box lid has a little overhang but the button is flush with the lid. There's no room for adjustment. I don't want to try moving the inlet further back so the overhang stays.
 
I haven't done much for awhile. I finally got my stock and barrel finishes in.

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This brass has been giving me fits. Filing isn't working for me. I've got some hard polishing sticks made for a flap wheel and some thick leather. I chipped off pieces of a polishing stick and melted them in a spoon like a heroin addict and soaked one end of a leather strip in it. it works but it's slow and the leather keeps getting loaded up with brass but all I have to do is scrape it off with a knife blade. I can scrape it three or four times before I have to heat up some more.

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This is after my coarsest stick. I'll go over it again with finer grit until I get it like I want it. I didn't really want it super shiny but I guess that's what I'm going to end up with.

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This is what it looked like before I started on it.

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troy fairweather said:
Sometimes barrel brown or cold blue will darken brass, I can't stand shinny brass. You can make a mix of salt and hydrogen peroxide to age the brass quick, it can almost look like color case harding which looks pretty cool.
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I'm just going to let it mellow out. I'm not going to age/tarnish it and I'm definitely not going to give it a case hardened look.
 
I forgot to take pics after I put the iron nitrate on but it was a grayish green. This is after heating and neutralizing. I like the color but the figure isn't as strong as I would have liked. Maybe the oil will bring it out better. The patch box lid came out darker. It also has places that are lighter even tho I got even coverage. I think the nose cap came out really well even tho I didn't want shiny.

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hawg said:
I think I've got the barrel flats where I want them. Now on to the tang.
Click to expand...
Draw Filing - FYI, for draw filing, Jim recommends the import Bahco brand and I will say they are THE FASTEST cutting file I've ever used! His price on them is even cheaper than you can find them online (the last I looked).

Brass - Oh I HATE brass, hate filing brass ... give me a good ol' 'iron' fire lock EVERY day of the week! Now that might be why I don't have any Golder Age flintlocks, haha!
 
I really don't mind working brass myself, Have made somewhat complicated parts by hand in the past from hard steels so brass doesn't much bother me. I don't like shiny stuff on my guns so I don't fool with brass much unless a customer wants it.
 
I've got a 6 inch Nicholson single cut. It's not the speed of cutting as much as it is the file marks being worse than the tool marks. At any rate I've got it where I want it. I've got some filing to do on the cock and frizzen and then I'll be ready to brown.
 
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