Knife Sharpening Observation

[HoosierQ]

I have been trying to sharpen knives well for a very long time. Haven't yet achieved that skill to the degree I'd like...hit or miss.

I have a Lansky and that helps a lot but is not nearly as handy as free hand and doesn't work very well with long blades like kitchen knives etc.

Read, read, and read again, the sticky by Joe Talmadge...great stuff.

One of his techniques is to sharpen one side at a time until the burr raises up. This technique has helped me a lot. I have noticed that when you do the repetitive motion of drawing the blade across the stone on the same side, it is much easier to maintain a consistent angle...you sort of lock the hand and arm in place and make as many strokes as needed. With the knives I've been sharpening, upwards of 50 strokes. After than many strokes you get some muscle memory going and when you switch to a finer stone (after doing the other side of the blade) you can get that angle back again.

Switching back and forth you just don't get into that groove.

So I am very exited to be starting to be able to do a knife free-hand. Not there yet but I am going over to do my mother's kitchen knives today and I will get some more practice.

I am using a inexpensive Gerber diamond "stone". I got it free with a knive and I am not experienced with those but I really like it. I wish it was longer (it is about 4" long). I'd like one about a foot long but what do I know.

At any rate, this forum has taught me a lot. Thanks Joe Talmadge and THR!

 

[Slamfire]

I would get a longer stone. Eight inch stones are easy to find. It is hard to keep a good consistant angle with a short stone.

 

[7X57chilmau]

I prefer a stone that is at least as long as the blade I'm sharpening, up to about 8" beyond which there's little benefit.

I too sharpen one side then the other, raising the burr on each as I go. I count strokes, or more often circles, to ensure both sides get equal treatment.

Often I'm sharpening knives for the first time. I've just forged'em. When that's the case, here's how I do it....

I start with a synthetic oil stone I picked up at a garage sale some years ago. A good quality and quite flat stone, in a wooden slab. I use only its coarse side (probably 220 grit or so). The newly forged knife has a 45degree per side false edge left from where I profiled the blade on the grinder. Basically, nothing there.

I lay the blade on the stone. I raise the spine about 10-15 degrees off the stone, and begin stroking circular, continuous strokes. Continue until that side's original false edge facet is removed. There'll be little or no burr due to the false edge on side 2. Flip the blade over, lay on the stone, raise 10-15 degrees. Circles until a burr is raised.

I intentionally leave this first setting of the edge profile very flat. This makes final edge maintenance easier. Only the secondary bevel will need touching up in the future, for many sharpenings.

Next stone, #600 waterstone. Polish the first bevels, continue until new burr is formed. Equal strokes each side. I'll start with 20 per side, then 10 per side, then 5 per side, then 3, then one to finish. Finishing strokes will be draw strokes (away from teh edge) to promote burr formation.

Final stone, #2000 waterstone. Polish the first bevels, and then raise the spine slightly more to form a final micro-bevel, at the final desired angle. Usually this is 15 or so degrees, just needs to be a few degrees steeper than previously.

Then finish on strop or whatever you'd like. Light pressure till burrs are gone and edge shaves easily.

Note that some steels (CPM D2 on my Leek for one) will NOT form a burr. Then careful inspection and feeling is needed.

Note that a sharp knife edge is invisible. Hold it up to a light at any angle, and you cannot see a gleam. If you see light gleam, it's DULL.

J

 

[hso]

Be careful with diamond hones. They'll move a lot of metal fast.

 

[HoosierQ]

I just got a Norton India combo stone 6". I did some sharpening with that and I like it a lot. I got it at a yard sale for .25. Saw it on the internet for $20 so that's a good deal. Looks like it was used once.

7x57. Great information...thanks a lot. I will try what you're doing. Like I said, this sticking to one side stuff seems to be the free handing breakthrough I needed.

Thanks all.

PS. Found this site when I was looking up my new 25 cent stone. Great stuff on here. Lots of water stones, Arkansas stones, diamond hones, and the aluminum oxide stones.

http://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/

 

[7X57chilmau]

In the end, consistant angles are important, so whatever you can do to help youself achieve them is gonna be a good thing.

It's the single steepest swipe across a stone that determines the final edge angle, so be careful not to accidentally let your blade's spine climb up on ya.

Also, keeping the angle consistant thru the curve of the blade, heading towards the tip..... Can be a little confusing. Easy to make that part steeper or slacker than you intended.... The angles add up some.

J