Lee decapping die question

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tcoz

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I just broke the decapping pin on my Lee Universal Decapping Die which I know isn't supposed to happen. Fortunately I have a couple of spare pins but unfortunately I can't get the collet loose to replace it. Is there a secret to doing this? It isn't reverse threaded, is it?
 
Don't have any Lee dies but I've had to use pliers on a few collets to get them loose. I use 2 nuts tighten against each other so the threads don't get damaged. Some time I have to put the rod in a vice. If you do this use something to protect the thread.
 
Thanks Blue. I finally got it loose by holding the die in a big set of visegrips and using a hammer to smack the box wrench that I put over the collet.
The thing that's "funny" is that the die could never work as advertised with as tight as the collet was put on at the factory.....and that's exactly why it broke in the first place.
 
That picture cracked me up. Those two little wrenches?? Give me a break! That was the first thing that I tried then went to progressively larger wrenches, slip joint pliers, vise grips etc etc until finally....success.
Thanks.
 
The nut holding the pin must be tight or the Decap Pin will slip when decapping those hard headed cases
 
Is there a secret to doing this?
I have dedicated long handle box end wrenches hanging next to the press.

The trick that has worked for me is to remove the die and get the wrenches together close enough for me to brace the shorter wrench against the bench and use the larger wrench to loosen. Worked every time when the collet was too tight for my hands to loosen.
 
I have dedicated long handle box end wrenches hanging next to the press.

The trick that has worked for me is to remove the die and get the wrenches together close enough for me to brace the shorter wrench against the bench and use the larger wrench to loosen. Worked every time when the collet was too tight for my hands to loosen.

That's exactly how I finally got it loose.
I know that it has to be tight in order to hold the pin but it was so tight that the pin had no chance of sliding within the collet and that's why it broke. I was decapping some Korean 30-06 cases and yes, they were boxer primed.
 
"Not supposed to break" Right. I have broke plenty. Usually results from being too fast with military .223/5.56. I have better luck not giving a full on power drive the first push, if the pin starts to rise and primer doesnt budge, set that case aside. Once in awhile the pin may not be lining up with primer hole, from either manufacturing problem, or more likely, not set properly in shell holder. Order several spares.

Oh, and forget the little base and pin they sell to be used independent of a die. I broke 3 in a row, in the trash. It is supposed to be unbreakable, but I have way better luck with the universal die, or the pin in the full length sizing die than that thing.

Russellc
 
"Not supposed to break" Right. I have broke plenty. Usually results from being too fast with military .223/5.56. I have better luck not giving a full on power drive the first push, if the pin starts to rise and primer doesnt budge, set that case aside.

My experience is exactly the same.

After I broke two in one evening, I emailed Lee. They replaced them free of charge. Only downside, I had to pay the $5 shipping.
 
Squirreldaddy.com has rounded tip or hardened pins for the Lee universal decapping die. I've been using a rounded one with good luck for about a thousand cases of scrounged 5.56.
 
If you use my small push first method, you can make do. I will try one of these you speak of. I just deprimed 2000 LC .223/5.56 brass. Then, starting another batch, got in a hurry and bent one. Maybe squirrel daddy"s will prevent this.

Russellc
 
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