Lee's Factory Crimp Die?

Status
Not open for further replies.

Centella

Member
Joined
Jan 21, 2023
Messages
91
Morning friends,
I've been hanloading for about a year-and-a-half with Lee's Classic Loader kits (whack-em-all), and now I got my first little upgrade to a Lee hand press. Very happy with the results, so far I've only used it for resizing 357 mag and 44 mag. Of course now I'm interseted in getting more dies, I'm looking at some of the die sets for 45acp and 9mm. Also, might be getting the FCD for 357 to try to fix the following issue: some rounds will not fit in my Ruger GP100, they will only fit my S&W 686. Will the FCD fix that? Also, is the FCD worth it for 45ACP and 9mm? I talked to a Lee technical support person over the phone the other day, and he made it sound like it was a big deal...

Thanks!
 
I use the Factory Crimp Die for my 357s, fairly certain it will fix your issues.

Don't use one for my 45s (ACP or Colt). Don't have the same need...
 
Last edited:
I talked to a Lee technical support person over the phone the other day, and he made it sound like it was a big deal...

Thanks!
Of course Lee is gonna tell you that. They want to convince you that you need a fcd die so you buy the die.
I wonder if the GM salesman is gonna tell me the F150 is the superior truck when I go shopping?

I find it odd, every die manufacturer and multiple other companies minus Dillon for some odd reason, all copied the Rcbs M die, but not one company has come out with an equivalent of the fcd.

My method of making things, isn't using a bandaid solution, it's finding the problem and addressing it.
 
First things first….roll crimps are for revolver rounds. Taper crimps are for auto pistol rounds. Lee’s “factory crimp” dies are excellent for either.

I use both and I can endorse their utility … for whatever that may be worth to you. And I have die sets that are not Lee. Nothing against their dies, it’s just not what I wound up buying when I was buying.
 
I use a fcd in 357 because I seperate seating and crimping, and I can leave the seating die set. It gives a good roll crimp, but the carbide sizer ring almost never does anything, which is arguably good. The Lee fcd in 357 will make cases with bulges fit into every gun I have. Many including me think that fixing the source is the best route. Getting a set of dies that have a two step expander mandrel will likely fix most of your issues. The second thing to check is bullet seating stem fit. I skip this step by using bullets with a big flat meplat.
 
Also, might be getting the FCD for 357 to try to fix the following issue: some rounds will not fit in my Ruger GP100, they will only fit my S&W 686. Will the FCD fix that?
It might squeeze them down enough to chamber, but is that "fixed?

They are too fat somewhere or they would chamber.

So, are the bullets oversized? Are they seated crooked? Did you over crimp and bulge the round at the crimp? I'd rather go after those possible issues before I just squeezed the rounds to fit, as that can cause its own issues sometimes.

An old Lee FCD post of mine.

From the link:

"The FCD will squeeze it down and make it fit, and the new reloader pats themselves on the back and calls it good, whereas if they hadn't used it they would eventually run into a problem with a tight (Within spec but tight) chamber and learn to fix the issues by adjustment of dies/user improvement of starting bullets straighter. (Even sliding sleeve seaters do a better job of seating bullets straight if they start out straighter. I have proven that to myself. They cannot totally fix a sloppy start of the bullet.)

A lot of pistol gamers use them so everything will absolutely fit and not cause a stoppage during a competition, as the penalties are so severe for a stoppage. Some use a case gauge and check all rounds, some do both. Things happen, fat bullets, got one a little crooked being in a hurry loading 500 or 1K rounds for matches, and the FCD will make sure you don't have a stoppage due to a fat reload.

I look at the FCD as an "advanced" reloaders tool, not a beginners tool.

I'll say again, if you are feeling a fair amount of resistance of your reloads in the carbide ring of the FCD on a lot/all of your rounds, stop and investigate, because something is amiss, even if it is simply an undersized FCD. You should be feeling very light to almost no resistance in the carbide ring."
 
For years I shot major power loads in 357, and would chamber all rounds before a match, some wouldn't easily fit the cylinder. My solution was to use a size die, and size right to the rim, problem solved! I had to fabricate a tool to push the cases back out after forcing them into the sizer die. I started using factory crimp dies when they came out, but still set them up by running the adjustment down at the top of the stroke, and adding 3/4 turn.
Seems to work for all calibers, taper or roll crimp!
 
On occasions where my revolver loads didn't fit into the cylinder, it was due to the bullet seated crooked, excessive crimping creating a case bulge, or failure to fully size the case. The standard Lee Factory Crimp Die (FCD) addresses none of those issues. The Lee Carbide Factory Crimp Die (CFCD) can mask some of those issues by sizing the complete cartridge after bullet seating, sometimes at the expense of bullet size or shape.
 
Last edited:
I have had a Lee FCD for several years, and didn't find much use for it. Then the other day, I watched a video on Youtube by a fellow called Fortune Cookie 45 LC. It was eye-opening, to say the least.
Once, an RCBS Tech told me that they consider a factory crimp as an "overcrimp" and should be avoided. 😲
Comparing factory crimps with how I learned (trying to replicate crimps illustrated in an old... probably '60s... Lyman manual, my usual crimps and the FCD's look to be about medium.
Fortune Cookie and Lee say that replicating factory ammunition is the way to go for reliable, good shooting ammunition.
I "plunk test" each of my rounds in my revolver, and find a very small portion that will not chamber properly, due probably using too heavy a crimp, which can bulge the case.
I'm not sure if I agree with Fortune Cookie's method of crimping cast bullets...Just enough to bring the case diameter equal to the outside diameter of the bullet, front edge of the cae mouth snug against the front edge of the crimping groove.
The crimp keeps the bullet from moving until the powder burn produces enough pressure for a reliable load, and with a revolver, there is very little that will "set back" a bullet into the case, but maybe that will keep the gap between case mouth and bullet free of dust and dirt(?) Any way, the FCD seemed to improve the crimp on my reloaded rounds, so I may figure out how to include it in my reloading process.
 
might be getting the FCD for 357 to try to fix the following issue: some rounds will not fit in my Ruger GP100, they will only fit my S&W 686. Will the FCD fix that?
It will not "fix" the issue, if you mean correct the cause of the issue.

It might help the rounds to chamber by over sizing the case/bullet, but it won't address what needs to be done to prevent it in the first place
Also, is the FCD worth it for 45ACP and 9mm? I talked to a Lee technical support person over the phone the other day, and he made it sound like it was a big deal...
Without knowing exactly what was said, it would be hard to tell how "big a deal" it was.

I have the Lee FCD in both 9mm and .45ACP. I used the FCD in 9mm quite a lot when I first started reloading, because it was how I was taught, but pretty much stopped once I learned how to diagnose and correct the issues in my reloading process.

I use the FCD when loading .45ACP exactly once while loading polymer coated bullets. It could be felt over resizing the bullets and caused reduced neck tension due to the spring back differences between the case walls and the bullet core. That FCD is in a drawer somewhere never to be seen again.

I'd really prefer that this thread not turn into a thread of biased opinion sharing (I've used it for years and it's great) and hope that members can couple their opinion with some descriptive comparative experience
 
I remove the cylinder from the Freedom Ams Model 83 454Casull and make certain every round drops in perfectly.
To me it's a must.
 
The Factory Crimp die is not meant to “fix” anything, it’s meant to split crimping and seating into two operations. It does a good job for that purpose. The advantages to seating and crimping in one vs two steps (and vice-versa) depend on the rest of your processes and materials. For example: if you don’t trim cases before roll crimping then using a separate crimping operation is useful.

That’s just one example, not a use case and not a sole solution.

I wish the moderators had not virtually forbidden any positive comments on this tool. It is useful when applied correctly to a number of loading methods. Such a shame it gets a bad rap based on incorrect usage.
 
This deal with the Lee FCD is a never ending debate with handloaders. If one uses it and it works without "swagging" or sizing down bullets, cases, perfect. If it messes with some loaders in that regard, don't use it. It works for me and a lot of other loaders without issue. Don't like it, don't use it. It really is that simple.
 
The Factory Crimp die is not meant to “fix” anything, it’s meant to split crimpin
I have to disagree a bit here. You may have been referring to the Op's question about using it to fix a clambering issue at the bullet end of the case,
in which I would tend to agree with you. But, the FCD is also intended to be used with the Bulge Buster to remove the bulge in base of cases. It's in the instruction manual for the Bulge Buster. With a little improvising, you can use the FCD for this with out buying the Bulge Buster, but its easier to just buy it.🙂
 
I have to disagree a bit here. You may have been referring to the Op's question about using it to fix a clambering issue at the bullet end of the case,
in which I would tend to agree with you. But, the FCD is also intended to be used with the Bulge Buster to remove the bulge in base of cases. It's in the instruction manual for the Bulge Buster. With a little improvising, you can use the FCD for this with out buying the Bulge Buster, but its easier to just buy it.🙂
Okay, but I was trying to stay on topic. We were already put on notice that certain comments not dealing directly with the topic would not be welcomed.
 
Okay, but I was trying to stay on topic. We were already put on notice that certain comments not dealing directly with the topic would not be welcomed.

Well, this question is in the Op's first post:

"Also, is the FCD worth it for 45ACP and 9mm? I
[/QUOTE]


So I don't see how my replies would be considered off topic.🤔
 
Each cartridge requires a FCD for that cartridge. I have them for all my auto's, I don't use them on my straight wall cartridges.🙂
"All my autos" would seem to imply more than one.
Which of your auto cartridges, besides the 9mm, isn't a "straight wall cartridge?"

I believe the question posed to you was specifically, "Which cartridge does the 9mm FCD bulge bust"...which I don't think you've answered
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top