Light 327FM hitting really high

[vincyr]

Finally got a chance to test my cast 130gr WFP and 100gr DEWC loads in my Single Seven. Still need some work on the 130gr(Accurate #9 gives good velocity, but is not accurate by any means. Might try Power Pistol). The DEWCs were over a couple grains of Trail Boss, couldn't get a good read on the chrony with them. Accurate, but they were consistently hitting over a foot high (@25yds). I was expecting a little bit of difference, maybe a couple inches, but not that much. Is that normal?

 

[murf]

more barrel time for the slower, lighter bullet can do that. try to get some good chrony numbers to see how slow that load is going.

your 130 grain bullet may be too long for the 1:16 twist of that gun. or just a not-so-accurate bullet design.

luck,

murf

 

[vincyr]

more barrel time for the slower, lighter bullet can do that. try to get some good chrony numbers to see how slow that load is going.

your 130 grain bullet may be too long for the 1:16 twist of that gun. or just a not-so-accurate bullet design.

luck,

murf

Yeah, I've just never seen as dramatic of a difference

According to the Berger calculator, the 130 should be stable. I had some issues with accuracy when I tried pushing the RimRock 125gr towards the upper end of velocity with A#9. This bullet is probably the same. Probably likes between 1200-1300fps over some PP. I just was getting tempted by that 1400 figure.

 

[tightgroup tiger]

I think your powder choice for 130 gr lead bullets are too slow for cast bullets in .327FM and the Trail Boss load is to light period.

Try 4.5 grains of 231/HP38 with the 100gr double end wad cutter. That loads works out for me with 90-100 gr lead bullets in .327FM reduced loads.

With the 130 gr your on your own. I haven't worked up a load for it because I figured it was to long of a bullet for the Ruger .327FM rifling. If your bullets were gas checked so you know you won't deform the base, you could lite them up in a .327 and increase the rotation speed and they would probably be accurate for a lot longer distance than 25yds.

At slow speeds I'm afraid they are too long of a bullet and accuracy won't be what you expecting. But I said above that I haven't tried working up a load for them yet.

Just my thoughts based on my experience with reduced lead bullet loads in a .327FM. These loads can be extremely accurate if you stay at 32 H&R Magnum speeds.
And they are a hoot to shoot.

 

[GooseGestapo]

OP,
What diameter are your cast bullets?
I’m having to use.313-.314” in my S7 to get decent accuracy.
I had to “Beagle” my Lee .312” 90gr TLSWC and powder coat it and size to .314” to get it to shoot decent. (Beagle aka aluminum duct tape shims).

If you are shooting so high, you need to increase velocity to reduce barrel time.

LongShot and #2400 are my preferred.327 powders.
I’d try spanking that 130 good with #2400. Works for me with a Lee .311-113gr FNGC and Lee .311-120gr RNGC.
With #2400, at less than max loads, I use a standard small pistol primer. For high end H110 and Acc#9 with jacketed bullets, small rifle primers are needed to prevent cratered primers locking up the cylinder.

Slug your cylinder throats...

 

[vincyr]

OP,
What diameter are your cast bullets?
I’m having to use.313-.314” in my S7 to get decent accuracy.
I had to “Beagle” my Lee .312” 90gr TLSWC and powder coat it and size to .314” to get it to shoot decent. (Beagle aka aluminum duct tape shims).

If you are shooting so high, you need to increase velocity to reduce barrel time.

LongShot and #2400 are my preferred.327 powders.
I’d try spanking that 130 good with #2400. Works for me with a Lee .311-113gr FNGC and Lee .311-120gr RNGC.
With #2400, at less than max loads, I use a standard small pistol primer. For high end H110 and Acc#9 with jacketed bullets, small rifle primers are needed to prevent cratered primers locking up the cylinder.

Slug your cylinder throats...

.314". Cast at .315", PC-ed and sized. Barrel was .312". Unsized boolit has to be forced through cylinder, sized boolit falls through with no resistance .

 

[tightgroup tiger]

.314". Cast at .315", PC-ed and sized. Barrel was .312". Unsized boolit has to be forced through cylinder, sized boolit falls through with no resistance .

OP,
What diameter are your cast bullets?
I’m having to use.313-.314” in my S7 to get decent accuracy.
I had to “Beagle” my Lee .312” 90gr TLSWC and powder coat it and size to .314” to get it to shoot decent. (Beagle aka aluminum duct tape shims).

If you are shooting so high, you need to increase velocity to reduce barrel time.

LongShot and #2400 are my preferred.327 powders.
I’d try spanking that 130 good with #2400. Works for me with a Lee .311-113gr FNGC and Lee .311-120gr RNGC.
With #2400, at less than max loads, I use a standard small pistol primer. For high end H110 and Acc#9 with jacketed bullets, small rifle primers are needed to prevent cratered primers locking up the cylinder.

.

I'm using the same mold and have found the same thing with it.

I'm casting .314 bullets also and I don't resize them. Out of my SP101 they shoot just fine the way they are. The only thing I wished I would have changed is that I would have use Missouri Bullet's Hi-Tech coating instead of Liquid Alox and mineral spirits.
I would have a lot less smoke to deal with.
I use a cheap tumble lube mold from Lee for 90gr SWCs and it does a good job because they are accurate and that to me is what matters, but the smoke from the Alox at times is embarrassing.
Your powder coating so I understand the reason your resizing.
My naked bullets fall through the throats in my SP101 before I put the Alox on them. Alox is sticky, even when dry, it tends to interfere with a fall through in the throats so I don't care about that.

I agree with what Goose Gestopo is saying, and pretty much what I said.

If your bullets were gas checked so you know you won't deform the base, you could lite them up in a .327 and increase the rotation speed and they would probably be accurate for a lot longer distance than 25yds.

.[/QUOTE]

 

[TTv2]

I've shot my .327 a lot, I've not gone over 115 grains in weight yet and I don't think there's much to gain in going up to 130 if you can't get any accuracy from it from a handgun. From a rifle I can understand wanting to shoot the biggest bullet possible, but not from a revolver. I can't think of anything outside of bear, cougar, and big hogs that I wouldn't have confidence that 115 grains of lead won't put a stop to.

As you found out the throats on .327 Ruger's are all .314, Ruger expects people to be shooting the jacketed Federal .327 ammo, not some lead .32 S&W Long ammo that cost $10 less a box . Stupid on their part if you ask me. I have found that .32 Mag revolvers have .313 throats and are much more accurate, thus in the future (outside of the .327 LCR) all my .32 revolver purchases will be in either .32 S&W L. or .32 Mag.

I would abandon Trail Boss for the wadcutters and switch to Bullseye, start with max loads for .32 S&W or H&R Mag and work up.

 

[jmorris]

Start this one 26 seconds in and you can see the muzzle begins to rise before the bullet exits.



If you want to know how many thousands of an inch higher it rises before exit, than your regular loads (assuming they shoot to point of aim) you can use one of the sight height/adjustment calculators.

Like this one. https://dawsonprecision.com/sight-calculator/