I like light barrels myself especially in the larger calibers, but I do see the value in having the additional barrel material acting as a heat sink in case you ever need to fire off a bunch of rounds quickly, sustained fire.
I have a strong preference for 20rnd lancer L5s, but I have a lot to choose from including some 5, 10, 20, 30, and larger capacity, some made from carbon fiber but most are aluminum, polymer (some reinforced, some aren't), & steel (which are unlikely to be used here). Honestly 20rnd aluminum are probably the best choice here, so that's what I'll probably end up using. As far as polymer cased ammo, I really liked what I saw from TrueVelocity at SHOT show a couple years ago (I really think they and General Dynamics had the best combo for the NGWS entry, but that's a different story), but until prices come down on that stuff I'm probably going to be rocking brass M193 (my standard fodder) or some 45gr HP instead. $2/rnd it's pretty crazy if you ask me!What magazines/capacity are you considering?
Any thoughts to some hybrid, poly ammo?
Moon
I agree, I have several pencil barrels and they're a great option when you're not looking for sustained fire capability. There were other factors (like attachments) at play when the Govt. profile was chosen, most of these are not a factor for us, so arguably there are much better choices in most cases.My last build from the ground up was with a pencil barrel, and that's my strong preference now a days.
My current build only has a gov't profile because I got such a good deal on it and don't want to fiddle with getting another barrel drilled and pinned for a FSB. The government profile is weird, I'd prefer the extra meat by the chamber rather than the muzzle, but at least it's not overly heavy.
You may be correct, but we're going to give it a go...I'm pretty stubborn if nothing else. I'm betting I can pull it off given what I'm after and my expectations (keeping in mind this is never intended to be practical, much less a "go-to carbine").If I had a nickel every time a customer said "lightweight AR build" I'd have a couple hundred $$$.
I would have another couple of hundred $$$ for every customer that wound up abandoning the concept.
If you're talking about the 16"OAL bbl that's the exact one I chose. I have a couple other Faxon bbls (both pencils: one a 16" forged 5.56NATO, the other a 14.5" .223Wylde) and they've performed well at a reasonable price whilst saving a bit of weight. Thank you for the reference; I'll have to check out some of those threads.I'll be following this thread since I've started collecting parts for a budget conscious lightweight build.
I chose the Faxon 14.5" pencil barrel with integrated flash hider because it is the lightest steel barrel at just over 19 ounces bare and is reasonably priced when on sale.
OP, AR15.com has a couple of long running threads on lightweight builds and lightweight parts that should be very helpful to you.
Have you ever contributed any pics or threads on these builds? Sounds very coolI suspect you'll reach the same conclusion many of us did after engaging this pursuit and building sub-4 or even sub-3 pound guns. That is, too many sacrifices are made.
It's pretty easy to build a durable & reliable ~5 lb AR.
It's much more difficult and expensive at 4 lbs.
At 3 lbs, you have a very specialized and fragile thing.
I've also made from scratch some of the lightest repeating rifles you can imagine, including a 5-shot bolt action .22 that weighs only 19 ounces, so I get it, but again, some of the compromises/sacrifices that have to be made to get there are not trivial. My 3.2 pound folding 9mm semiautomatic rifle actually worked out pretty well, but the bolt is so light that it's borderline on not blowing cases out, and it's not even worth suppressing with such early breech opening and high bolt speed, have 151 decibels at shooter's ear from port noise.
Have you ever contributed any pics or threads on these builds? Sounds very cool
I remember seeing some of that. Inspired me to try some stuff with my old lathe. Good stuff. And a lot of good ideas.A long time ago, probably somewhere in the archives. It was 8 or 10 years ago the last time I did a light weight build, and they wouldn't be very helpful to anyone who isn't a machinist, as most of the parts were either modified or completely custom. One-off aluminum receiver extension nut, titanium selector, skeletonized billet aluminum RMR mount, pinned titanium muzzle brake, then upper receivers, handguards and bolt carriers put on a diet on the knee mill, 14.5" barrel turned to sub-pencil profile, etc.
Remember that the heat issue works both ways. A light barrel also cools much faster, so if you're having a long range session, it evens out in shorter cooling breaks. Personally I'm fond of heat shields inside the handguard, either milspec or silica-based, 650°C/1200°F rated Aerogel-type insulation material on the inside of float tube.with a heavier barrel, and while it still gets hot, it takes about twice as long to get to the glove stage.
Nice, I was actually referring to your 5 shot .22lr and the 3# 9mm semi home builds....A long time ago, probably somewhere in the archives. It was 8 or 10 years ago the last time I did a light weight build, and they wouldn't be very helpful to anyone who isn't a machinist, as most of the parts were either modified or completely custom. One-off aluminum receiver extension nut, titanium selector, skeletonized billet aluminum RMR mount, pinned titanium muzzle brake, then upper receivers, handguards and bolt carriers put on a diet on the knee mill, 14.5" barrel turned to sub-pencil profile, etc.
Nice, I was actually referring to your 5 shot .22lr and the 3# 9mm semi home builds....