Loading for an AR-15

[crest117]

I have loaded .223 for my bolt rifles for several years with excellent results, 69 and 75 gr bullets. But always used cheap bulk ammo in my AR. I would like to start loading for the AR and have a large quantity of 55gr FMJ and several pounds of CFE-223. Two questions; should I start my load at the bottom weight of powder charge or in the middle, and I never crimp for my bolts but should I crimp for the AR loads?

 

[12Bravo20]

Start at the suggested starting charge and work your way up. You probably will find best accuracy somewhere in the middle.

As ar as whether to crimp or not, you will get a lot of replies both for and against crimping. I would suggest loading 5-10 rounds without crimping and test fire a couple and check the rest to see if you have any bullet set back. That should tell you if you need to crimp or not. While a light crimp is fine, a heavy crimp can not only cause feeding issues but also have a negative effect on accuracy. Again, test a few to see if you need to crimp or not.

 

[cfullgraf]

Keep in mind that crimping will not fix lack of neck tension.

I'd start near the lower end of the data and work yourself up. I generally load three or so at each powder charge level and see how they group. I then zero in on the best charge weights that produce the best accuracy. Note, there are "ladder" methods that are probably more efficient.

I like to shoot and chronograph some factory ammunition that has the same or similar bullet that I want to use. It tells me if my rifle is fast or slow and I can use that information as I am searching for an accurate load.

As a note, I gave up crimping my AR and M1 ammunition long ago.

 

[armoredman]

I just started using the CFE223, and found a load of 27 grains worked well for me with the Hornaday 55gr Soft Point, with neck flared with the Lee Expander tool and then smoothed out with the Lee FCD. That is generally heresy for most people, though. Just enough to remove the flare is all I want. However, I have just started experimenting with that powder.

 

[edwardware]

Good questions:
1) Lacking any experience reloading for your particular rifle, start low and watch pressure. Make batches of 15-20 rounds, 0.5-1grains apart, and see what groups.
2) I wouldn't crimp, for all the usual reasons. If you decide you must, you need to either trim or use the Lee FCD. You're better off spending the money on a good caliper, and measuring neck tension; with 0.003"+ tension, it'll resist setback on feeding.
3) Use those calipers to measure and get a good handle on fired and sized shoulder position. If you blindly size to die minimum every time, and your chamber isn't near minimum, you'll get head separations. Achieve 0.003-0.005" setback vs chamber.

Have fun!

 

[misser]

my self i recently discovered IMR4320 pushing sierra 55gr BTHP from my AR . i was, dang where has that powder been hiding all my life ?

 

[Toprudder]

Start low and work up.

For my plinking loads (100 yards or less) I will put a very slight crimp on them if the bullet has a cannelure. However, I proved to my own satisfaction that a crimp is not needed for bullet setback or jump, as long as I have at least .002" neck tension. I also proved to myself that crimping had a negative effect on accuracy and extreme spread, so if I am worried about precision, I don't crimp. But, that may just be me and the equipment/components that I use, YMMV.

 

[Charlie98]

Keep in mind that crimping will not fix lack of neck tension.

In fact, if anything, it exasperates neck tension... or worse, buckles the shoulder. Don't axe me how I know...

With any load, particularly with high pressure rifle cartridges... start low and work up.

 

[Bartojc]

I always recommend starting low and working up. You probably won't be able to chase the lands as your limitation will likely be mag length. As far as crimping, I do for my AR and I have some very good loads. I have found that with some bolt action loads that crimping is not needed and sometimes detrimental to accuracy. I still use a light crimp for an AR for safety. I might be nuts but it works for me.

-Jeff

 

[mustanger98]

Rather than roll crimping with the bullet seater die, I'd suggest using a factory crimp die. I haven't seen a problem with a factory crimp die set right. The collet only closes so far. Pressure should be pretty even all the way around the case mouth. As with anything else, everybody has an opinion. Mileage may vary.

 

[blue32]

My experience has been that starting loads for .223 may not reliably cycle the AR action (5.56 specific loads may well be a different story). H4198 is a good example for 55 gr bullets using 223 data. I started at the middle for Varget, BLC-2, and IMR-4166 among others and saved a lot of time getting what I wanted. I'm going to go against prevailing wisdom and say start just under the middle.

 

[cfullgraf]

I just started using the CFE223, and found a load of 27 grains worked well for me with the Hornaday 55gr Soft Point...

CFE223 powder has been my choice for my 204 Ruger ammunition I use for prairie dog adventures. I have a 12 pound, 26" barrel AR-15 rifle that I use for the little critters.

I'm sure CFE223 will work well in 223 Remington. I'll try it at some point but I have not been shooting 223 Remington much of late.

 

[Blue68f100]

I've used the CFE-223 for my blasting ammo in my AR's. I do not crimp, but I do sort my LC brass by year for I found that each year required a slightly OAL for them to match lot to lot. I used the same charge weight but adjusted to OAL to get the same velocity which gave me the best group. I used the Hornady 55gr FMJBT bullet which was around 0.08 ea. I have also used TAC which gives me a little more accuracy. The Hornady's 55gr FMJBT will only give you about 1-1.5 MOA. If you gun likes to jam the nose into the feed ramp you may need to or switch to a different magazine.

 

[Toprudder]

My experience has been that starting loads for .223 may not reliably cycle the AR action (5.56 specific loads may well be a different story). H4198 is a good example for 55 gr bullets using 223 data.

Funny you mention H4198. I use that, with 50-55gn bullets, in my AR pistol. The starting load cycled fine in the pistol, but with my 16" mid-length carbine, I had to go up closer to max charge to get it to lock open on empty.

Starting mid-range should be safe, but an accuracy node might be missed.

 

[blue32]

Middy is what I used as well.

 

[mustanger98]

Starting mid-range should be safe, but an accuracy node might be missed.

Just my quick thought just now... If your mid-range starting charges are safe and reliable, and you found the first accuracy node, you'll have notes on all that. You are making notes on all this, right? All you have to do to find the next accuracy node down is start backing the charge down by .2grs till either you find the next accuracy node down, or it won't quite cycle reliably. This is all an experiment anyway.

 

[JWF III]

As everyone has said start low and work up... Buuuuuuuutttttttt, load 2 rounds at each interval to start. Go to the range to test fire. Start at the bottom. Load each pair in a magazine by their self. Check feed and function on round 1, check for feed, function and lockback on round 2. Once you have a basement level for function in your rifle; then starting there, load 10 of each interval to shoot for groups.

Wyman

 

[Toprudder]

Just my quick thought just now... If your mid-range starting charges are safe and reliable, and you found the first accuracy node, you'll have notes on all that. You are making notes on all this, right? All you have to do to find the next accuracy node down is start backing the charge down by .2grs till either you find the next accuracy node down, or it won't quite cycle reliably. This is all an experiment anyway.

What you say is true, and once or twice I took my first shots with mid range charge. I don't remember the exact reason why. But I generally start at the low end just for safety reasons. I may not be using a specific bullet for which there is load data, it may be just a generic plated bullet for instance.

And, yes, I document everything.