cdb1
Member
I do too and also do the same regarding loctite.
Loctite for scope mounts/rings?
- Thread starter 4570Tom
- Start date
- Status
Worth repeating.Inch pounds, they are not rod bolts
mcb
Member
Fix it sticks
The cases, one side molle the other size a velco patch, on that I have a velcro magnet patch for holding small parts.
Inside of the two cases I have had these a few years now and this started as their Deluxe Torque Drive Kit (with an extra toque limiter) and a discontinued version of their MSR tool kit. I move the bits around and added a few. The current Works Kit basics replicated what I have here. In the right kit with the torque limiters I have all my US customary hex drivers and Torx drivers and a 1/2" socket. I also upgraded the T-handle to the new ratcheting T-handle. In the other kit I have the AR tools from the MSR kit along with all my metric hex drivers and traditional screw driver bits.
The torque limiters are pre-set you simply select that one you want and tighten until it slips with an audible/tactile clicking (except the larger 65 in-lbs its quiet). Very handy and compact.
For my travel/range box I picked up one of theit new All in One Torque driver kit.
The torque drive in this kit is not a limiter. It is basically a calibrated torsional spring that as you tighten a fastener an indicator rotates show the applied torque. Not as convienent as the presets but on one little unit you can apply anything you want upto 65 in-lbs.
Yeah I am a fan boy...
The cases, one side molle the other size a velco patch, on that I have a velcro magnet patch for holding small parts.
Inside of the two cases I have had these a few years now and this started as their Deluxe Torque Drive Kit (with an extra toque limiter) and a discontinued version of their MSR tool kit. I move the bits around and added a few. The current Works Kit basics replicated what I have here. In the right kit with the torque limiters I have all my US customary hex drivers and Torx drivers and a 1/2" socket. I also upgraded the T-handle to the new ratcheting T-handle. In the other kit I have the AR tools from the MSR kit along with all my metric hex drivers and traditional screw driver bits.
The torque limiters are pre-set you simply select that one you want and tighten until it slips with an audible/tactile clicking (except the larger 65 in-lbs its quiet). Very handy and compact.
For my travel/range box I picked up one of theit new All in One Torque driver kit.
The torque drive in this kit is not a limiter. It is basically a calibrated torsional spring that as you tighten a fastener an indicator rotates show the applied torque. Not as convienent as the presets but on one little unit you can apply anything you want upto 65 in-lbs.
Yeah I am a fan boy...
Last edited:
Inch pounds, they are not rod bolts
Indeed, I will stick with the tools described and avoid Dad's big torque wrench he uses on tractor lug nuts. But, seriously, thank you for the reminder on the difference between the two units of measure.
I've never understood epoxy under the bases. I spent a lot of rime cleaning that off an otherwise very nice model 70. Not an easy chore.
The clamping force of the base screws creates tremendous friction so that the base doesn't move, and this works quite well if the bases are machined well. This in addition to the actual anchoring by the screw.
Is the epoxy a genuine attempt to weld base to action? Or is it an attempt to fill any voids and increase friction?
The clamping force of the base screws creates tremendous friction so that the base doesn't move, and this works quite well if the bases are machined well. This in addition to the actual anchoring by the screw.
Is the epoxy a genuine attempt to weld base to action? Or is it an attempt to fill any voids and increase friction?
cdb1
Member
I’ve pondered over this myself. I know some reputable people that do it.
cdb1
Member
Liar, we know what you put it on.
berettaprofessor
Member
Epoxy serves as a grout, transmitting and spreading load just like mortar between bricks. Yes, it would increase friction of mount to action and would eliminate micromovement. It makes the construct "stiffer".
I've only been shooting and mounting my scopes for about 50 years, so maybe I just don't have enough experience, but I've NEVER had a any part of a scope mounting work itself loose, and I've never used any thread locker on 'em. I've used threadlocker on a lot of automotive and other applications, though. If I were going to use some on a scope mount, it'd be Loctite 222, or equivalent.
I had Leupold Dovetails on a .338 Win mag with a Leupold 3X9 and it was great for about 7 years but then I couldn't get it sighted in. Looked and the scope had slipped all the way to the magnification ring.
Switched to Warne Vertical rings and never had a problem again.
berettaprofessor
Member
I once bought a left-hand Savage 111 in 270 Winchester with the factory-mounted Weaver 3X9 on it for a song....pretty sure the owner had pawned it "because it didn't shoot." One of the scope mounts was loose. A little tightening up, and it shot like a Savage should.
To clarify, I'm not saying it hasn't happened to anyone, just that I've never had a set that *I* installed without threadlocker come loose. I hope to live long enough and to get to shoot enough that it eventually happens to me, though.
Flatbush Harry
Member
I put blue Loctite on my ring mounting screws for my rifles that will wear scopes in that ring diameter for the long term. This has been true for my hunting rifles wearing 1" and 30mm medium rings. Precision rifles don't get Loctite but do have torque checked regularly.
Last edited:
- Status
