I bought a used but like new Pro series 5" 1911 and the thing is a tack driver. This is my third S&W1911, the others were an E series and a Gunsite 1911PD. All the triggers are loose and sloppy with both vertical and horizontal play. has anyone else here replaced their triggers? I am thinking of a 10-8 flat faced long trigger.
Love my SW1911, hate the loose trigger though
- Thread starter mapwd
- Start date
- Status
Easy fix. Buy a nice oversize trigger and take your time fitting it. Clean up any burrs in the trigger channel with a stone first. Before you buy a long or short trigger try to shoot a gun with each and see how it feels in YOUR hand. It makes a big difference IMO.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
Side to side play can be taken care of by bending / springing the trigger bow sides outward just enough to fit the frame channels without dragging.
Vertical movement can be addressed by drilling a hole in the finger pad and pressing a steel or nylon pin in it, then fitting it with a file to just take up all the play.
Done properly, the trigger will have zero play, and zero friction.
Buying a new trigger is no guarantee you still won't have to fit the trigger bow to the frame, and the trigger pad too.
Might as well practice on the one you have.
Doing that will not change the relationship it has with the rest of the parts either.
rc
Vertical movement can be addressed by drilling a hole in the finger pad and pressing a steel or nylon pin in it, then fitting it with a file to just take up all the play.
Done properly, the trigger will have zero play, and zero friction.
Buying a new trigger is no guarantee you still won't have to fit the trigger bow to the frame, and the trigger pad too.
Might as well practice on the one you have.
Doing that will not change the relationship it has with the rest of the parts either.
rc
Last edited:
While I used to bend and peen triggers to remove slop now I just buy a good oversize one and fit it to the frame. Life's too short. Occasionally you will come across a frame that is so out of spec no trigger will fit without slop. Then you have to go back to bending and peening.
It's a personal choice, but I always get an STI trigger to swap out. They're $25, use titanium bows and glass filled polymer shoes that are easy to fit and don't show drag marks. They also have adjustable takeup tabs and overtravel screws that don't walk. The trigger face is also very comfortable for long sessions with full power ammo.
Better fit, better feel and guaranteed no trigger bounce. It's a no brainer.
Better fit, better feel and guaranteed no trigger bounce. It's a no brainer.
SleazyRider
Member
Ditto for my S&W 1911PD. But what I often wondered about was … why? Why does S&W choose to produce a pistol with this issue?
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
They supposedly addressed the loose trigger issue on the new E Series that came out a couple of years ago.
http://www.smith-wesson.com/webapp/...4_750001_750051_770151_-1_757752_757751_image
rc
http://www.smith-wesson.com/webapp/...4_750001_750051_770151_-1_757752_757751_image
rc
Some time back I had occasion to check this issue out, and discovered that the fingerpiece slot in S&W frames were way out of tolerance going top to bottom when checked against USGI blueprint dimensions. In addition some triggers were on the low side when it came to height. This of course resulted in a sloppy "loose" trigger.
A possible solution is to install a (so called) match trigger that has an oversized fingerpiece that can be individually fitted to the S&W slot.
A possible solution is to install a (so called) match trigger that has an oversized fingerpiece that can be individually fitted to the S&W slot.
41magsnub
Member
My brand new sw1911sc with a 2013 MFG date has quite a bit of horizontal wiggle. Vertical is pretty good though.
- Status
Similar threads
