old lady new shooter asked in this post in taliv's thread;
http://www.thehighroad.org/showpost.php?p=10028461&postcount=47
It's been a while since we had this discussion here so I thought we could revisit it. I'd like to limit the discussion to the use of active light sources, white light and visible lasers. Although I know there is a lot of experience with passive TTPs, it's something that is pretty much limited to those shooters with the means to purchase good passive night vision or military and LE members.
I'll start:
Studies of shootings indicate that a high percentage of them take place during the hours of darkness. LE statistics point out that nearly 2 out of 3 LE officers that are fatally shot, are shot during the hours of darkness. A very high percentage of shootings involving private citizens also occur during the hours of darkness.
If you are unfortunate enough to be involved in a defensive shooting, it's likely going to be in the dark. So what kind of problems does one encounter in the dark.
Ken Good, retired SEAL and formerly of Strategos International and the Surefire Institute discussed these problems in the low light engagement course he developed for LE and military personnel:
Navigation, Threat Location, Threat Identification, Threat Engagement.
I think that for our purposes we can dispense with discussing using light to solve navigation problems in the dark, as private citizens with no duty to act won't face going into a totally dark environment after a criminal.
I think that every discussion of operating in the dark needs to start with a little primer on how our eyes work. I've read various descriptions in military field manuals and they all are pretty simplistic. I think that Good explained it best on page 13 of The Strategies of Low Light Engagement. This excellent manual that accompanied his course is unfortunately out of print. If you come across a copy grab it. There is a lot of great information there.
I will paraphrase, Everyone's ability to see under low light conditions is a bit different. Age also plays a role, we are best at seeing in the dark when we are teenagers and the older we get the more of that ability we lose and the older we get the longer it takes our eyes to adapt. At 59 I really notice this.
The retina is the back lining of the eye where the image we see is converted from light into nerve impulses that go to the brain. There is a purple light sensitive chemical called Rhodopsin in the retina. When light enters your eye and hits the retina the Rhodopsin bleaches and changes to Opsin then emits a minor electrical charge that goes to the brain. The retina then reacts to vitamin A in your body and it changes back to Rhodopsin.
The Rhodopsin is constantly being bleached and unbleached and vision is a steady flow. Except when exposed to an extremely bright light source. When exposed, even briefly, a part of the retina will become over bleached and it may require several seconds to several minutes before the vitamin A restores the visual purple throughout the retina and this is where the purplish ball or blind spot we see when we are hit with an extremely bright light comes from.
The retina is made up of two different receptors, called rods and cones. There are approximately 125 million rods and 7 million cones. The cones require much more light to function and they allow us to see color and fine detail.
Rods don't perceive color and don't give us fine detail. They do function better in low illumination and detect motion and are sensitive to contrast. Night vision is better after a slow adaptation from light to dark.
The central part of the retina is almost 100% cones and the periphery is almost 100% rods. We see color and fine detail in daylight because we are using mostly cones and in dim light we use mostly rods which is why we lose color and detail. Rhodopsin responds poorly to red, so as the light gets dimmer we lose the ability to see red first.
We see yellow/green the best and it is one of the last colors we lose acuity for as the light dims.
The pupil regulates the amount of light that reaches the retina. It adapts pretty rapidly to changing light conditions requiring only a fraction of a second to make the initial change and reaches maximum opening in about a second. It's not the opening of the pupil that makes adapting to the dark a long process, it's the transfer of vitamin A changing the opsin back to Rhodopsin that makes it take so long.
If you have 20/20 vision and are leaving a well lighted area and move into an area illuminated by starlight (defined as night sky with less then half moon and no direct artificial illumination, which is called scoltopic conditions) your vision will go from 20/20 to 20/800 instantly and will remain that way for approximately 2 minutes until your eyes adapt. 20/800 is four times worse then what would be considered being legally blind. That's less them 5% of your vision in daylight.
It takes 12 minutes of dark adaptation to raise your vision to 20/300, 15% of your daylight vision. After 30 minutes of dark adaptation your vision will reach a maximum of 20/180, only a little better then being legally blind.
Your peripheral vision is even worse in the dark. Our eyes and brain are wired to provide a small area of clear vision surrounded by concentric circles of blurred vision. The brain integrates many complex processes, which fill in the ambiguity created by our poor peripheral vision. The same process is involved in how we see in low light.
The brain calls on memory, selective suppression and enhancement to form visual perception. What you see is going to be heavily influenced by your experience and training. Remember that what we see is the combination of the existing light and the perceived expectations of the brain.
Studies have shown that this may contribute to the number of unarmed people shot by the police in low light conditions and why objects like cell phones or wallets are perceived to be guns.
Scared of the dark yet?
So what can we do to mitigate the handicap of darkness? The number one thing is to have a light.
But there are dozens of lights, which one should you choose? Small powerful lights are readily available and come in all price ranges. I recently saw a video by a trainer who said; "I want the sun." I don't agree with that. Super bright lights are ok for the outdoors, but you can easily blind yourself indoors with a light that's too bright. By blind yourself I'm referring to the temporary loss of night vision when a super bright light reflects off lightly painted walls, mirrors, glass on cabinets and appliances etc. (see the long boring part about how your eye works is relevant after all)
If you envision using your light in mostly indoor conditions a light that produces 60-225 lumens works well. If you anticipate using the light in an outdoor setting choose one 225 lumens or more.
Target Identification
It's absolutely critical that we can ID our target as a threat. We don't want to shoot at a silhouette or sound and find out later that we shot a family member, your neighbor from two doors down who stumbled into your home drunk thinking he was at home only to have missed it by two doors. These things have happened! YOU SHOULD NEVER ENGAGE A TARGET YOU CAN'T IDENTIFY
Darkness, adrenaline, and the tendency for the brain to fill in missing data with what your experience tells it you should see all combine to make misidentification an easy thing.
How to Use Light to Find and ID the Threat
The techniques I'm going to discuss are applicable to searching for a threat. Most people reading this thread will never have the duty to enter a structure looking for the bad guy. However they are applicable to use of a light in one's own home. I offer the following disclaimer:
If you are in your home you should retreat to your safe room and hold your position. The only time you should move to clear your house is to secure children or other family members and bring them to the safe room. Professionals clear rooms in teams.
That is the only circumstance I would ever recommend leaving the safe room. Barricade your family in the safe room, call the police and let them search your home for the intruder.
Light is a double edge sword. It is essential so that you can ID the threat, but it also gives your position away. So how do we use light to our advantage but deny the threat the ability to know exactly where you are?
You don't want the threat to shoot directly into the light and hit you. You need to distort the threat's perception of where you are by using what Ken Good calls visual distortion.
When you are moving through your house to the kids room so you can take them to the safe room, you don't want to bump into the intruder. You also don't want him to know exactly where you are. You want to use your light to confuse the intruder about what's actually happening.
Change the angle of the beam along the floor, down a hall, across the ceiling, up and down stairs. You need to do this constantly and randomly while moving. This will give the threat a distorted idea of where you are and how far away you are. By bouncing the light down the wall of a hallway you can make someone in a room think you are on the opposite side of the hall then you really are.
You need to move where you direct the beam randomly. It's easy to establish a pattern, its the way most of our brains work, but a methodical search with your light will telegraph your location and movement to the threat.
Along with the angle of the beam, you want to change it's placement randomly, held at arms length straight to the side, at arms length above your head, bent elbow with the body of the light next to your head. Put the light in a different position relative to your body each time you flash it.
Vary the rhythm and the duration of the light.
Don't establish a pattern and anyone hunkered down waiting to ambush you is not going to be certain exactly where you are.
Watch Out for Backlighting
All of your careful, random use of your light and movement will be for naught if you silhouette yourself in the external light coming in through a door or a window. The private citizen is at an advantage here over the police officer or soldier in that you can control your environment. Survey your home to find out where external light is coming in and could backlight you as you are moving through the house and fix them. Drapes, closing the door to a study, or family room, easy enough to fix. Know where the LED clocks and power lights are on the electronics in your home. I don't suggest disabling them, but know where they are as you plan your movement.
Self Blinding
It's easy to temporarily degrade your night vision with an extremely bright light when it's reflected back at you off of light colored walls, mirrors and appliances. Remember about how long it takes the vitamin A to turn the opsin back to Rhodopsin on your retina so you can see in the dark again. Once again the private citizen has the advantage over the solider or police officer in that the private citizen knows his own home.
Light and Movement
Start in the darkest area, light from that position momentarily, then move to the next position immediately ready to engage. You don't want to be where the threat just saw the light, when he reacts to it. Remember the light is your force multiplier, it lets you ID the threat and confuses the threat as to your exact location.
Using the Light with Your Weapon
You need to always be ready to engage. To do that, you must keep your eyes, the weapon and the light aligned. This doesn't mean that you have to have a weapon mounted light, you can use a handheld light from all of the positions and still keep your weapon trained on the bright spot of the beam. This does take practice, but you can safely practice this at home with your light and a blue gun or an airsoft gun. You aren't staring at your sights when you do this but the weapon should be held in a ready position with the sights just below your line of sight.
There are many different flashlight/handgun techniques. Not all of them will work for everyone. I will describe several here: They are listed in alphabetical order:
The Ayoob Technique. Developed by Mas Ayoob, it's for use with a large light with a side mounted switch like a patrolman carried in his squad car.
The flashlight is grasped in a sword grip with the thumb or any finger on the die mounted momentary switch. The thumb of the flashlight hand is pressed against the thumb of the weapon hand, creating isometric tension and steadying the weapon. It can be used with the hands back near the body or extended.
The Chapman Technique Named for world class shooter Ray Chapman and also credited to Bill Rogers and is also known as the Chapman/Rogers Technique.
The flashlight is held in a sword grip but only with the thumb and forefinger. The thumb of the flashlight hand or a finger operates the side mounted switch. The other three fingers of the flashlight hand wrap around the fingers of the weapon hand in an approximation of the standard two handed grip. Like the Ayoob technique it was designed for use with a large flashlight.
The FBI Technique Taught in police academies nationwide for decades, it's designed to keep the light away from the body so if the threat shots at it, the officer is not hit. The flashlight is held in a sword or ice pick grip with the arm extended well away from the body with the lens of the light in front of the body to avoid illuminating the user. The weapon is held in any one handed grip the shooter desires, not in contact with the light. You can use this with a large or a small light. Side switch or tail cap switch.
A lot of people think this is an outdated technique but it's one you might learn so you have it in your tool box with you are using the light to deceive the threat.
Hargreaves Technique Named after Mike Hargreaves, former British Army and full time firearms instructor. This technique is used with a small light with either a tail cap or side switch.
Hold the light in the support hand. Draw pistol and light together, punch pistol in straight line to the target, weak hand pointing flashlight. Bring the two hands together but the weak hand goes under the pistol. A tail cap switch is activated by pushing against the knuckles of the weapon hand, a side switch by the thumb of the support hand.
Harries Technique Named after one of the pioneers of practical pistol shooting, Michael Harries in the 1970s. It works with large and small lights tail or side switch.
The light is held in an ice pick grip. Thumb or any finger operates the switch. Wrists and backs of the hands lock together creating isometric tension. This is the technique I use the most with a hand held light.
Rogers/Surefire Technique Named for FBI agent William Rogers and was developed around the Surefire 6P flashlight.
The small light is carried in a syringe grip, with the fingers gripping the body of the light with the momentary switch on the tail cap resting against the middle or lower part of the thumb. The light is activated by squeezing between the fingers and thumb. The hands are brought together as in a standard two handed grip and the lower fingers on the light hand are wrapped around the gripping fingers of the weapon hand. Surefire added a rubber ring to the light to facilitate this grip.
Keep This in Mind with all of the Hands Together Techniques:
Its a natural tendency to direct the light into the threat's face or onto the perceived point of danger. At a few yards range it doesn't take much movement of the beam to change a perfect COM aim into a miss.
If you take your eyes off the threat to realign the weapon puts you in danger and may move the lights bright spot off the target. When you illuminate the threat, aim your weapon, not the bright spot of the light.
Hardware Considerations
Choose a light that is rugged, water resistant and bright, a minimum of 60 lumens. It should have a momentary on/off switch. I'm going to ask our resident light expert ugaarguy to weigh in on the various lights available.
There is much more to get into, we haven't discussed "power with light" use of strobing or weapon mounted lights. I've left out a few light/weapon techniques.
Much of the information in this post comes from The Strategies of Low Light Engagements by Ken Good. Some of the Answer, Handgun by Jim Crews and my notes from various training classes I took in my LE career.
You can't learn these TTPs by reading a book, watching a video or reading a thread on a forum. This post is to facilitate discussion and inspire the members to seek out training.
http://www.thehighroad.org/showpost.php?p=10028461&postcount=47
It's been a while since we had this discussion here so I thought we could revisit it. I'd like to limit the discussion to the use of active light sources, white light and visible lasers. Although I know there is a lot of experience with passive TTPs, it's something that is pretty much limited to those shooters with the means to purchase good passive night vision or military and LE members.
I'll start:
Studies of shootings indicate that a high percentage of them take place during the hours of darkness. LE statistics point out that nearly 2 out of 3 LE officers that are fatally shot, are shot during the hours of darkness. A very high percentage of shootings involving private citizens also occur during the hours of darkness.
If you are unfortunate enough to be involved in a defensive shooting, it's likely going to be in the dark. So what kind of problems does one encounter in the dark.
Ken Good, retired SEAL and formerly of Strategos International and the Surefire Institute discussed these problems in the low light engagement course he developed for LE and military personnel:
Navigation, Threat Location, Threat Identification, Threat Engagement.
I think that for our purposes we can dispense with discussing using light to solve navigation problems in the dark, as private citizens with no duty to act won't face going into a totally dark environment after a criminal.
I think that every discussion of operating in the dark needs to start with a little primer on how our eyes work. I've read various descriptions in military field manuals and they all are pretty simplistic. I think that Good explained it best on page 13 of The Strategies of Low Light Engagement. This excellent manual that accompanied his course is unfortunately out of print. If you come across a copy grab it. There is a lot of great information there.
I will paraphrase, Everyone's ability to see under low light conditions is a bit different. Age also plays a role, we are best at seeing in the dark when we are teenagers and the older we get the more of that ability we lose and the older we get the longer it takes our eyes to adapt. At 59 I really notice this.
The retina is the back lining of the eye where the image we see is converted from light into nerve impulses that go to the brain. There is a purple light sensitive chemical called Rhodopsin in the retina. When light enters your eye and hits the retina the Rhodopsin bleaches and changes to Opsin then emits a minor electrical charge that goes to the brain. The retina then reacts to vitamin A in your body and it changes back to Rhodopsin.
The Rhodopsin is constantly being bleached and unbleached and vision is a steady flow. Except when exposed to an extremely bright light source. When exposed, even briefly, a part of the retina will become over bleached and it may require several seconds to several minutes before the vitamin A restores the visual purple throughout the retina and this is where the purplish ball or blind spot we see when we are hit with an extremely bright light comes from.
The retina is made up of two different receptors, called rods and cones. There are approximately 125 million rods and 7 million cones. The cones require much more light to function and they allow us to see color and fine detail.
Rods don't perceive color and don't give us fine detail. They do function better in low illumination and detect motion and are sensitive to contrast. Night vision is better after a slow adaptation from light to dark.
The central part of the retina is almost 100% cones and the periphery is almost 100% rods. We see color and fine detail in daylight because we are using mostly cones and in dim light we use mostly rods which is why we lose color and detail. Rhodopsin responds poorly to red, so as the light gets dimmer we lose the ability to see red first.
We see yellow/green the best and it is one of the last colors we lose acuity for as the light dims.
The pupil regulates the amount of light that reaches the retina. It adapts pretty rapidly to changing light conditions requiring only a fraction of a second to make the initial change and reaches maximum opening in about a second. It's not the opening of the pupil that makes adapting to the dark a long process, it's the transfer of vitamin A changing the opsin back to Rhodopsin that makes it take so long.
If you have 20/20 vision and are leaving a well lighted area and move into an area illuminated by starlight (defined as night sky with less then half moon and no direct artificial illumination, which is called scoltopic conditions) your vision will go from 20/20 to 20/800 instantly and will remain that way for approximately 2 minutes until your eyes adapt. 20/800 is four times worse then what would be considered being legally blind. That's less them 5% of your vision in daylight.
It takes 12 minutes of dark adaptation to raise your vision to 20/300, 15% of your daylight vision. After 30 minutes of dark adaptation your vision will reach a maximum of 20/180, only a little better then being legally blind.
Your peripheral vision is even worse in the dark. Our eyes and brain are wired to provide a small area of clear vision surrounded by concentric circles of blurred vision. The brain integrates many complex processes, which fill in the ambiguity created by our poor peripheral vision. The same process is involved in how we see in low light.
The brain calls on memory, selective suppression and enhancement to form visual perception. What you see is going to be heavily influenced by your experience and training. Remember that what we see is the combination of the existing light and the perceived expectations of the brain.
Studies have shown that this may contribute to the number of unarmed people shot by the police in low light conditions and why objects like cell phones or wallets are perceived to be guns.
Scared of the dark yet?
So what can we do to mitigate the handicap of darkness? The number one thing is to have a light.
But there are dozens of lights, which one should you choose? Small powerful lights are readily available and come in all price ranges. I recently saw a video by a trainer who said; "I want the sun." I don't agree with that. Super bright lights are ok for the outdoors, but you can easily blind yourself indoors with a light that's too bright. By blind yourself I'm referring to the temporary loss of night vision when a super bright light reflects off lightly painted walls, mirrors, glass on cabinets and appliances etc. (see the long boring part about how your eye works is relevant after all)
If you envision using your light in mostly indoor conditions a light that produces 60-225 lumens works well. If you anticipate using the light in an outdoor setting choose one 225 lumens or more.
Target Identification
It's absolutely critical that we can ID our target as a threat. We don't want to shoot at a silhouette or sound and find out later that we shot a family member, your neighbor from two doors down who stumbled into your home drunk thinking he was at home only to have missed it by two doors. These things have happened! YOU SHOULD NEVER ENGAGE A TARGET YOU CAN'T IDENTIFY
Darkness, adrenaline, and the tendency for the brain to fill in missing data with what your experience tells it you should see all combine to make misidentification an easy thing.
How to Use Light to Find and ID the Threat
The techniques I'm going to discuss are applicable to searching for a threat. Most people reading this thread will never have the duty to enter a structure looking for the bad guy. However they are applicable to use of a light in one's own home. I offer the following disclaimer:
If you are in your home you should retreat to your safe room and hold your position. The only time you should move to clear your house is to secure children or other family members and bring them to the safe room. Professionals clear rooms in teams.
That is the only circumstance I would ever recommend leaving the safe room. Barricade your family in the safe room, call the police and let them search your home for the intruder.
Light is a double edge sword. It is essential so that you can ID the threat, but it also gives your position away. So how do we use light to our advantage but deny the threat the ability to know exactly where you are?
You don't want the threat to shoot directly into the light and hit you. You need to distort the threat's perception of where you are by using what Ken Good calls visual distortion.
When you are moving through your house to the kids room so you can take them to the safe room, you don't want to bump into the intruder. You also don't want him to know exactly where you are. You want to use your light to confuse the intruder about what's actually happening.
Change the angle of the beam along the floor, down a hall, across the ceiling, up and down stairs. You need to do this constantly and randomly while moving. This will give the threat a distorted idea of where you are and how far away you are. By bouncing the light down the wall of a hallway you can make someone in a room think you are on the opposite side of the hall then you really are.
You need to move where you direct the beam randomly. It's easy to establish a pattern, its the way most of our brains work, but a methodical search with your light will telegraph your location and movement to the threat.
Along with the angle of the beam, you want to change it's placement randomly, held at arms length straight to the side, at arms length above your head, bent elbow with the body of the light next to your head. Put the light in a different position relative to your body each time you flash it.
Vary the rhythm and the duration of the light.
Don't establish a pattern and anyone hunkered down waiting to ambush you is not going to be certain exactly where you are.
Watch Out for Backlighting
All of your careful, random use of your light and movement will be for naught if you silhouette yourself in the external light coming in through a door or a window. The private citizen is at an advantage here over the police officer or soldier in that you can control your environment. Survey your home to find out where external light is coming in and could backlight you as you are moving through the house and fix them. Drapes, closing the door to a study, or family room, easy enough to fix. Know where the LED clocks and power lights are on the electronics in your home. I don't suggest disabling them, but know where they are as you plan your movement.
Self Blinding
It's easy to temporarily degrade your night vision with an extremely bright light when it's reflected back at you off of light colored walls, mirrors and appliances. Remember about how long it takes the vitamin A to turn the opsin back to Rhodopsin on your retina so you can see in the dark again. Once again the private citizen has the advantage over the solider or police officer in that the private citizen knows his own home.
Light and Movement
Start in the darkest area, light from that position momentarily, then move to the next position immediately ready to engage. You don't want to be where the threat just saw the light, when he reacts to it. Remember the light is your force multiplier, it lets you ID the threat and confuses the threat as to your exact location.
Using the Light with Your Weapon
You need to always be ready to engage. To do that, you must keep your eyes, the weapon and the light aligned. This doesn't mean that you have to have a weapon mounted light, you can use a handheld light from all of the positions and still keep your weapon trained on the bright spot of the beam. This does take practice, but you can safely practice this at home with your light and a blue gun or an airsoft gun. You aren't staring at your sights when you do this but the weapon should be held in a ready position with the sights just below your line of sight.
There are many different flashlight/handgun techniques. Not all of them will work for everyone. I will describe several here: They are listed in alphabetical order:
The Ayoob Technique. Developed by Mas Ayoob, it's for use with a large light with a side mounted switch like a patrolman carried in his squad car.
The flashlight is grasped in a sword grip with the thumb or any finger on the die mounted momentary switch. The thumb of the flashlight hand is pressed against the thumb of the weapon hand, creating isometric tension and steadying the weapon. It can be used with the hands back near the body or extended.
The Chapman Technique Named for world class shooter Ray Chapman and also credited to Bill Rogers and is also known as the Chapman/Rogers Technique.
The flashlight is held in a sword grip but only with the thumb and forefinger. The thumb of the flashlight hand or a finger operates the side mounted switch. The other three fingers of the flashlight hand wrap around the fingers of the weapon hand in an approximation of the standard two handed grip. Like the Ayoob technique it was designed for use with a large flashlight.
The FBI Technique Taught in police academies nationwide for decades, it's designed to keep the light away from the body so if the threat shots at it, the officer is not hit. The flashlight is held in a sword or ice pick grip with the arm extended well away from the body with the lens of the light in front of the body to avoid illuminating the user. The weapon is held in any one handed grip the shooter desires, not in contact with the light. You can use this with a large or a small light. Side switch or tail cap switch.
A lot of people think this is an outdated technique but it's one you might learn so you have it in your tool box with you are using the light to deceive the threat.
Hargreaves Technique Named after Mike Hargreaves, former British Army and full time firearms instructor. This technique is used with a small light with either a tail cap or side switch.
Hold the light in the support hand. Draw pistol and light together, punch pistol in straight line to the target, weak hand pointing flashlight. Bring the two hands together but the weak hand goes under the pistol. A tail cap switch is activated by pushing against the knuckles of the weapon hand, a side switch by the thumb of the support hand.
Harries Technique Named after one of the pioneers of practical pistol shooting, Michael Harries in the 1970s. It works with large and small lights tail or side switch.
The light is held in an ice pick grip. Thumb or any finger operates the switch. Wrists and backs of the hands lock together creating isometric tension. This is the technique I use the most with a hand held light.
Rogers/Surefire Technique Named for FBI agent William Rogers and was developed around the Surefire 6P flashlight.
The small light is carried in a syringe grip, with the fingers gripping the body of the light with the momentary switch on the tail cap resting against the middle or lower part of the thumb. The light is activated by squeezing between the fingers and thumb. The hands are brought together as in a standard two handed grip and the lower fingers on the light hand are wrapped around the gripping fingers of the weapon hand. Surefire added a rubber ring to the light to facilitate this grip.
Keep This in Mind with all of the Hands Together Techniques:
Its a natural tendency to direct the light into the threat's face or onto the perceived point of danger. At a few yards range it doesn't take much movement of the beam to change a perfect COM aim into a miss.
If you take your eyes off the threat to realign the weapon puts you in danger and may move the lights bright spot off the target. When you illuminate the threat, aim your weapon, not the bright spot of the light.
Hardware Considerations
Choose a light that is rugged, water resistant and bright, a minimum of 60 lumens. It should have a momentary on/off switch. I'm going to ask our resident light expert ugaarguy to weigh in on the various lights available.
There is much more to get into, we haven't discussed "power with light" use of strobing or weapon mounted lights. I've left out a few light/weapon techniques.
Much of the information in this post comes from The Strategies of Low Light Engagements by Ken Good. Some of the Answer, Handgun by Jim Crews and my notes from various training classes I took in my LE career.
You can't learn these TTPs by reading a book, watching a video or reading a thread on a forum. This post is to facilitate discussion and inspire the members to seek out training.
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to try all the techniques live fire to see what you like best. I've been to a couple courses where they taught and we tried all the main methods.
