Shooting in low light

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black bear

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Shooting in low light

In a previous post, I talked about the use of the Harries technique and its suitability for use with the big Maglite 2 or 3 D and others similar flashlights.
See this link:
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=152757

I am going to explain how to employ the other useful techniques of using a flashlight with a pistol, especially useful for those flashlights that have a tactical switch.

As many of the members already have a Surefire of two or three batteries with a tactical switch or a similar one of another brand, going from 60 to 200 lumens, I am going to explain the two most popular techniques. One is the Harries which I have already explained in the previous post in using with my MAG 951 lumens light.

Michael Harries invented this position and it is considered one of the first positions ever that coordinates the use of the flashlight using the two hands.
For using with tactical switch lights (with a switch in the tail), the flashlight is grasped with the left hand around the body and the thumb will activate the switch.
The back of the hands are pressed together and maintain an isometric tension to help control the recoil of the gun. Your wrists will be crossed and the light will be parallel or close to the muzzle of the gun.

The Roger-Surefire
Holster maker, ex FBI agent, and competition shooter Bill Rogers teamed up with Surefire to adapt a rubber grommet or washer to the Surefire 6 Z (now available in most combat models of Surefire and copied by others light makers).
The position is also called the cigar position, as you grasp the body of the flashlight like a cigar, with the index and middle finger. The tail cap is resting on the fleshy part below your thumb and a little pressure back on the rubber ring will activate the light (the tail cap button resting in that part below your thumb will switch the light on).
That position will let you grasp the hand shooting the pistol with three fingers of the left hand, and it is the only position that let you use a two-handed grip.

Picture of the Rogers-Surefire

rogerssurfire.jpg



The Chapman technique
Ray Chapman was the first IPSC world champion. He invented his position for use with the Kel-Lites of the 1970’s (probably the first high quality Police Flashlight) that have a sliding switch on top of the barrel. It is still a great position to use for those that don’t want to cross the wrists as in the Harries position when using a big flashlight.
It is well suited for the Maglites and for the modification of the Maglite like my own MAG 951 lumens.

You just grasp the flashlight as you usually do, with your thumb in the switch and your fingers circling the barrel and you bring it up to index your fingernails with the fingernails of the shooting hand.

The Chapman position

chapman.jpg


In my other post I have mentioned the old FBI technique which is to separate the flashlight high and away from you in order to confuse you opponent about your position.
Another technique that doesn’t offer any support to the shooting hand but it can be very useful when using a pistol with lousy sights (original 1911, Luger, etc) is the one I used more than 40 years ago when I started combat shooting.
It indexes the light on top of my head, letting the light fall on a line from the sights to the target. Even the minuscule back up .380 or the Baby Browning sights gets illuminated using this ridiculous position.

The Harries technique

crossedwrist.jpg


In closing, I would like to say that in my opinion lights with less than 60 lumens are out of the new low light fighting techniques.
For my belt light I will prefer to have a minimum of 200 lumens, using the Surefire C-3 and the P-91 lamp as my favorite.
But if I have to clear a room I prefer a light with more power. My Surefire M-6 with the 500 lumens lamp will do, but I prefer even more lumens to really blind, disorient, and roast my opponent. That is when I use the MAG 951 lumens light.

I want to show you some pictures that illustrate the amount of lumens you are putting out when using a Surefire Centurion 2 with the 60 lumen lamp, the Surefire M-6 with the 500 lumens, and the MAG 951 with the 951 lumens.

Beamshot with Surefire Centurion 2 with 60 lumens lamp

P-6060lumens.jpg


Beamshot with Surefire M-6 500 lumens lamp

M-5beamshot1.jpg


Beamshot with the MAG 951 (951 lumens)

MAG951bas2.jpg


black bear
 
Here I am back again to show a new position, is to be used with my new light the POLAR BEAR 426 lumens. The Polar Bear 426 lumens compete with the Surefire M-4 (350 lumens 20 minutes run on four 123's batteries)
My Polar Bear is rechargeable so the runtime of 70 minutes is FREE, before the Surefire M-4 can run 70 minutes will have spend $23.25 in batteries

Here are the two lights:

p.jpg


And the position is like the Rogers-Surefire in what you hold the flashlight like a cigar, between index and middle finger, the index also activate the switch momentarily or click, as you wish and this position allows TRHEE FINGERS ON THE GUN.

polarposition.jpg


polartop.jpg


polarside.jpg


Best regards
black bear
 
Those flashlights look okay for big hands and slim guns, not so great for small hands or even big hands with double-stacked guns. Which is why the techniques were designed to go with smaller flashlights.

Plus, I hate fumbling around looking for a side-mounted switch. A rear-mounted switch just makes a lot more sense, since you can find it in the dark and everything.

Think I'll stick with my little Surefire.

pax
 
I'm not sure that I would choose either the Polar bear or the SureFire M4 for indoor use. I've found that even the 9 volt SureFires can be too much light for indoor use, especially given the light colors that predominate in most structures these days.

I think either light would be suitable for outdoor use or use in a large structure like a warehouse or factory.

Jeff
 
We just had a night competition at Winton,CA on Saturday night. One technique that I tried at the shoot was an Inova Red (5 led) pointed below the target with a modified Rogers Technique. This was used with a red fiber optic front sight and a Dawson Precision rear on a G26. The red led Inova light allows retention of all night vision but it lights up the fiber optic front sight perfectly. The red light in this case is used less for target ID than for precision aiming. It is excellent for target ID indoors. We shot outdoors with a beautiful big full moon. When used with tritiums the red led allows the full benefit of the night sights without washing out the front dot like the ultra powerful white lights.
I think the red light spectrum has a lot of advantages for older shooters. The powerful white lights destroy rhodopsin (visual purple) and hence the night vision. Older shooters take a very long time to regain night vision. Trying to change positions after the first exchange of gunfire will be impossible for a night blinded shooter. The use of red light allows you to see the terrain in front of you after the shots are fired.
 
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