LRN vs FMJ

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For 38 special and similar velocities lead usually works just fine. Once you get into Magnum velocities the alloy, lube, and correctly sized bullet make a bigger difference but lead is a possibility for those if done correctly.
 
I am working on laying in a retirement ammo supply. Looking to make a bulk purchase soon. I know that some shooters prefer non-jacketed lead bullets over FMJ , but I do not know why. I would be pleased to hear opinions on the pros and cons of the two different bullet types.
'Ski
1. Cheaper
2. Easier on barrels

I take it when you say LRN you mean you are shooting an automatic. If shooting a revolver, I'd pick semi-wadcutters (preferably "Keith-style.") You may find your automatic will shoot semi-wadcutters nicely -- all my 1911s thrive on 200 grain semi-wadcutters.

I would also make small purchases initially, and test each lot for accuracy and functioning -- and then lay in a much larger supply of the best bullet.
 
Don't hold me to this, but I think you may start to get leading up around 1000 fps with lead bullets.
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Leading is more a function of lubrication than anything else. Two very easy and effective "lubricants" are liquid Alox and powder coating.

With liquid Alox I float the Alox container in hot water to make the contents flow almost like water. Then I dump a few handsful of bullets into a plastic container, squirt in the liquid Alox and shake until the bullets are a golden brown -- then spread them on wax paper and let them dry for a day or two.

You can get powder coating from Harbor Freight, among other suppliers. You use it kind of like Liquid Alox -- put your bullets in a plastic container, add powder and shake until the bullets are all covered. The powder sticks by static electricity, and some people say they get better coverage by adding Airsoft BBs to the bowl.

I bake the bullets for 20 minutes at 400 degrees in a $20 toaster oven from Wal Mart.

Powder coating is cheap, effective, not as messy as Liquid Alox and doesn't gum up your seating die.
 
I thought old .357 Magnum factory lead bullets were bad for leading, until I tried the old Police Load .41 Magnum cartridges! These turned my Ruger Blackhawk into a smoothbore! With little lead "whiskers" protruding from the muzzle.

These the old swaged lead bullets used in factory loads.

Cast bullets in handloads are an altogether different story.

Bob Wright
 
I reload with jacketed zero bullets for most, except 357 where I use hornady xtp jacketed. 38 special I use plated. Now I shoot those to minimize lead exposure on the range and on my cleaning bench. Plus they can be shot at high velocities, and they’re accurate. Now if you’re talking just a prepped stash, whatever’s cheapest works, really.
 
Howdy Again

The purpose of jacketed bullets is they can be driven at higher velocities without needing a bullet lubricant. Lead bullets will reach a certain velocity, I don't remember exactly how fast, when the heat of friction of the bullet against the barrel will cause the lead to soften. This can cause leading as the softened lead fuses to the barrel. Jacketed bullets can be driven faster because the copper jacket melts at a higher temperature than lead. The copper itself is slippery enough to serve as its own lubricant, so jacketed bullets will not heat up as much, and can be driven at a higher velocity than lead bullets, without any leading.

Most of my revolvers are pretty old, I never load jacketed bullets for them because I have no need to drive bullets that fast.



Exactly what do you mean by 'the areas of escaping gasses'?
Actually wrong, soft lead can be driven to 1400+fps without leading, if proper lube is used, and alloyed with linotype can be driven to 2200+fps with proper lube, both with little to no leading depending on roughness of the barrel. I've been casting and reloading for 30+ yrs and I also fire lap ALL my guns using the LBT method. Since I found his fire lapping I've rarely seen any leading in any of my guns and most of my bullets are casted by me, from soft for B/P to almost pure linotype for rifle and rifle caliber pistols. I have some plated and jacketed bullets for my son's H&K that doesn't do lead so well.
 
If you look in of the Lyman manuals you can see that at 38 Special velocities you can see that they got more velocity with lead at equal or even lower powder charges. In some cases they exceeded plus p jacked velocities with normal lead velocities. If you do this be sure to choose equal or very close to equal bullet weights.
 
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