M1 Carbine ejector has ejected; what other parts should I get?

[Spug]

I love the M1 Carbine and have two including a very early Universal I was shooting yesterday. It is almost all GI parts. A couple years ago I had the cracked gas block welded up and have put a few hundred or so rounds down the pipe since. Some said it probably wasn't worth it, but this little carbine has sentimental value, and so far that repair is holding up.

I was shooting it yesterday though, and started having ejection problems and found the ejector and its spring in the snow a few feet in front of me. The extractor spring was mangled, and the extractor plunger nowhere to be found. Unfortunately, in packing up several firearms and assorted gear that little ejector and spring got left behind or lost, too. Gasoline to go back and look for it would cost more than a new one.

So I need a new extractor plunger and spring, and a new ejector and spring. There's a tool for putting the bolt together which is not too expensive, and my hammer is a little beat up so I was thinking of getting another, and a spring kit. All this would run about 100 bucks before shipping, which seems not unreasonable if it gives the carbine a new lease on life.

My question is, are there any other parts I should get, just to have or replace as a matter of course? Should I get another extractor just to have it? Any wear areas I might not have considered? I'm assuming that there won't be any fitment issues with the new parts other than a little bur or something, if that. But I thought I'd ask some of the sages here for any advice that might be offered.

 

[lemaymiami]

and if you don't hear something on this site... Here's two alternatives that have some very experienced carbine users....
https://www.milsurps.com/forumdisplay.php?f=110 ( Milsurps.com )
http://forums.thecmp.org/forumdisplay.php?f=6 ( thecmp.org)

 

[Slamfire]

A Carbine firing pin is stronger than a M1 Garand firing pin. Garand on top, M14 middle, carbine on bottom



I have had Garand firing pins break in the middle, and at the tang, and do not see why similar would not happen to a Carbine firing pin



Get the bolt tool and a new spring and plunger.

 

[Tommygunn]

You might want to have an extra recoil spring on hand.

 

[Spug]

Thanks all. Slamfire, I see a lot of grease on that extractor. Is that the way to go for general lubrication of that part or just for putting it together, and is it lithium grease, or something else?

 

[Slamfire]

Thanks all. Slamfire, I see a lot of grease on that extractor. Is that the way to go for general lubrication of that part or just for putting it together, and is it lithium grease, or something else?

I tend to over grease. I learned for the Garand/M1a to use lubriplate (AA130) in the summer time and LSA in the winter.



There are some here who might remember this Vietnam era PM Magazine cover. I have never seen LSA in a tube, but it is on the cover.



Really the bottom line is not to run a weapon dry, except in extreme cold or sandy conditions. The Army came out of Korea lubrophobic due to weapon oils freezing up in Korean winters. Which were hellishly cold. However, in the hot/wet of the Pacific, Garands jammed when lubrication washed off, so the Army tested and found Lubriplate AA130 was the most acceptable grease at the time. Modern tribology probably has made advancements, but I regularly use lubriplate 105, found at automotive stores, all the time. It is a light grease. I also use a lot of 5X-30 motor oils. Motor oils are outstanding lubricants and a lot cheaper than "gun oils". I believe most gun oils are either plain mineral oil, or repackaged industrial lubricants.

Just keep it lubed, and after firing, clean the weapon, and relube.

 

[AK103K]

In the past couple of years, I bought 5 GI carbines and every one needed to have the bolts rebuilt. Extractor, ejector, and all the springs and plungers. I didnt swap the firing pins though.

I also put new recoil springs in them as well.

The repo tools are a little fragile, especially the part that spinning part that holds/depresses things. Ive broken two of them so far, and not doing anything other than what you would normally do to change things out. I found a source of GI replacements for that part on eBay at a reasonable price. That seems to have stopped the breakages.

Ive always had good luck getting NOS original parts from Numrich/Gun Parts. Prices are resonable and they ship pretty quick.

 

[whughett]

Not sure about today but in the late 70’s thru 80’s one could get GI parts mail order with no problem. The guns and parts were inexpensive. I kept a small box with every replaceable part of a MI Carbines receiver and trigger group plus springs as part of the range kit.

 

[boom boom]

I love the M1 Carbine and have two including a very early Universal I was shooting yesterday. It is almost all GI parts. A couple years ago I had the cracked gas block welded up and have put a few hundred or so rounds down the pipe since. Some said it probably wasn't worth it, but this little carbine has sentimental value, and so far that repair is holding up.

I was shooting it yesterday though, and started having ejection problems and found the ejector and its spring in the snow a few feet in front of me. The extractor spring was mangled, and the extractor plunger nowhere to be found. Unfortunately, in packing up several firearms and assorted gear that little ejector and spring got left behind or lost, too. Gasoline to go back and look for it would cost more than a new one.

So I need a new extractor plunger and spring, and a new ejector and spring. There's a tool for putting the bolt together which is not too expensive, and my hammer is a little beat up so I was thinking of getting another, and a spring kit. All this would run about 100 bucks before shipping, which seems not unreasonable if it gives the carbine a new lease on life.

My question is, are there any other parts I should get, just to have or replace as a matter of course? Should I get another extractor just to have it? Any wear areas I might not have considered? I'm assuming that there won't be any fitment issues with the new parts other than a little bur or something, if that. But I thought I'd ask some of the sages here for any advice that might be offered.

Springs are typically a wear item. You can go to Sarco and get original military surplus spring sets and some other parts that you have to be careful about. https://www.sarcoinc.com/rifle-parts/m1-carbine/ Numrich is hit or miss. Bill Ricci used to have a fair amount of M1 Carbine GI Surplus parts but he retired--left his pages up though on m1 carbine info. http://www.uscarbinecal30.com/riccahome.html

Fulton Armory also stocks some m1 carbine parts and notes when and when it is not GI issue. They have a M1 Carbine spare parts kit for about $120 along with other individual parts. https://www.fulton-armory.com/M1-Carbine-Parts.aspx Take a look at their parts kit and that at least gives you something to shoot for if you choose to buy the stuff piece meal.

Riverbank Armory has been around for awhile and I have never dealt with them but they have some primo stuff at primo prices. http://m1carbineparts.com/
Northridge International also has some https://www.northridgeinc.com/category-s/202.htm and these folks have collector GI parts as well https://www.amherst-depot.com/gunparts.carbine.htm