M1 Garand Opinions?

[ds92]

I'm getting close to buying a new centerfire rifle. I like the looks of m1 garands, simply because they are what seem to be accurate, cheap (sort of), and 30-06 which is my first pick for caliber. Is there anything i should know or look for when shopping for M1 garands? Are they generally accepted as marksmans rifles or just artifacts?

Thanks,

DS

 

[ar10]

go to CMP first then decide. They would be the only ones I would trust in buying any M1 from. I've seen a number of people who thought they got a deal and end up getting screwed.

 

[Duke of Doubt]

Most M1 Garands around here carry so much collector premium that buying one as a shooter is a luxury. Unless it's a rough parts basket, it's going to go for at least a grand. Even the bad nasties bring 700 these days. And for a nice one? The Blue Sky is the limit.

 

[finfanatic]

CMP

+1 on the CMP

I found a few garands at Gunshows back during the spring and summer, and even got one bargained down to $600, but I just didn't feel too comfortable with it.

So I ordered a Service Grade Springfield from CMP. $595. It came with a new Boyd's beech stock, and other than some wear on the gas tube, the metal looked great as well. Plus, even more important to me, it shoots great as well.

I've since ordered a rack grade M1917 from CMP and it is a shooter as well.

 

[1KPerDay]

Yep, CMP is the way to go. Get a service grade and ask for new wood if you want a shooter. You won't be disappointed.

 

[lionking]

First thing,be suspect of any you see at a gunshow.99.9% of them at gunshows are misrepresented by the sellers.Although,I bought 2 of mine from gunshows but that was from a dealer I knew and had dealt with before.I can't count how many times at a show I look at one and the seller says it is "all original WW2" yet it has a serial number made after WW2 or is a HRA or with mixmaster parts on it,latter date gas plug and sights and either no cartouche or a defense stamp visable.Not that that matters if it is a good shooter but the point is often Im told BS at shows.

Read up on them,a Bruce Canfield book is great for knowledge not to mention internet forums like this one.Garands can vary widely in accuracy depending.Get a muzzle wear and maybe a throat gauge if you go hands on shopping.If you buy from a online auction use common sense.The newer the bore the better.While it is possible for a rifle to shoot well with a muzzle gauge of 3 or more better to find one under 2 if you can.You want the trigger mech to lock tight to the stock also.There have been threads about things you can do to make your Garand more accurate,check them out.

I like a whole lot of types of guns but the M1 and M1A just have a awesomeness about them from the fit feel general accuracy to the guys at the range that come over and inspect your rifle because it is a "Garand"

 

[lionking]

here is a thread I did a couple years ago to inspire you

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=241518

 

[hank327]

Ammo Concerns

Note that Garands are very restricted as to what 30-06 ammo they can fire without being damaged. The Garand was designed to fire M2 ball ammo only.
The vast majority of factory ammo regardless of bullet weight uses powder whose burning rate is incompatible to the Garand's gas system. Firing this in a Garand will sooner or later bend the operating rod. You can buy an adjustable
gas nut to replace the stock one that will allow the excess gas to vent without damaging the rifle. There are a couple of different ones out there and run around $30 to $40.

The CMP is selling Greek manufactured M2 Ball spec FMJ ammo at a good price.

 

[ar10]

I met a guy at the range shooting an "M1", the shots at 100yds were all over the place. I took one look at it and it was put together from pieces and parts. Most of the parts were came from Spain or Italy. The barrel was original alright, a 30-06 bullet slid down from the muzzle to the bolt non-stop. He bought through www.Gxxxxxxxr.com. Paid 950.00 for it. :banghead:

M1's from CMP are the only legitimate people I know of that will sell you an authentic M1. They are also not that expensive and they'll tell you if the rifle has any life left in it.
The Greek ammo from them is also excellent. I bought 2 cans, (1000 rounds) from them a couple of years ago so far I've run through 500 and haven't had a single problem.

 

[jpwilly]

+100 CMP. Here's mine stockless M1 with worn out bbl after new wilson 308 bbl, stock and reparkerized.

 

[dmazur]

You can get quality M1 Garands from places like Fulton Armory and Dean's Gun Restorations (DGR), but these are around $1600. They have been rebuilt, perhaps to a higher standard than CMP, and are double the price.

A good book to read about Garand rebuilding is "The Complete M1 Garand Assembly Guide", by Walt Kuleck / Clint McKee. This covers some rather advanced things like inspecting all the internal parts and barrel replacement. If you get a poor M1, you can rebuild it. Quite a bit of time and money will be involved, but you learn the internals of the Garand. This could be an option if you have access to a proper vise, barrel wrench, etc. and don't have to buy them. Or, if for some strange reason, you intend to rebuild a lot of Garands. (For some reason, not well understood, some people actually collect Garands...)

The Garand is not generally accepted as a target rifle (except in its "class"), or a hunting rifle. It is very difficult to scope in the conventional location, due to the requirements of the enbloc clip. Nevertheless, a lot of people get a lot of fun out of shooting them.

 

[ar10]

The Garand is not generally accepted as a target rifle (except in its "class"), or a hunting rifle. It is very difficult to scope in the conventional location, due to the requirements of the enbloc clip. Nevertheless, a lot of people get a lot of fun out of shooting them.

That's very true, It's a battle rifle. In boot camp we all trained on the M1 and shot at 500yd range. If you hit the target you hit the person you're aiming at, and everyone had to qualify.

 

[dmazur]

I also trained on the M1 Garand in boot camp. Maybe that's one reason why I still get a kick out of shooting it. (The only difference was the Navy had the .308 conversions and I have one now in the original .30-06)

 

[Thin Black Line]

The barrel was original alright, a 30-06 bullet slid down from the muzzle to the bolt non-stop.

That one will be sold at the next gunshow as a special "smoothbore" variant...

 

[262runner]

Hank, I looked at ammo about a month ago from CMP, the 415-CN, 240rd w/shipping is .31 a round. It's hard to beat that price.

 

[262runner]

Go with CMP for your Garand and check out their forum for your questions.

 

[Slamfire]

Garands are as good as gold! No joke!!

Get one from the CMP while you can. The supply has dried up except through the CMP. I belong to a CMP club and filled out all the paperwork, and bought a number of Garands when they were $350, $450, and one at $600. They ain't getting cheaper.

Just this Christmas a friend of mine was bemoaning the fact he wanted a Garand but could not afford one. I reminded him of when I used to bug him to get a CMP Garand for $350. And now they are much more.

Even if you don’t like the accuracy, the weight, or the recoil, you will be able to sell the thing for what you have in it, the day after you get it. Keep it a few years, and you will make money.

In so far what people have said is true. Commercial ammo, with the exception of Hornady ‘s Garand ammo, http://www.hornady.com/story.php?s=775 is too hot for the operating system of a Garand. Commercial stuff will beat up the rifle.

An issue Garand with a good barrel should shoot within 3.5” at 100 yards. Sometimes better. That is not “target” accuracy but it is good enough. If you sink $1000 into the rifle you can make it in to a MOA capable rifle, but a military collector won’t want the rifle.

 

[ar10]

Go with CMP for your Garand and check out their forum for your questions.

You can also call them. These guy are not the "gun store" sales reps. They know their weapons.
Then if you live close enough, like me, you can drive over and talk with them. I even brought my M! into their shop and and the authenticated every part I had, showing the two parts that were replace in 1954. Didn't cost me a cent.