Marking different loads in a single caliber

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I have marked charges on cases in a very small batch, but generally just mark the primers for anything over 10 plus.
 
I almost forgot, after that I went to writing down in my book what column each charge was and then write that "group" number on the side of the case. I found it tedious and stopped doing it.
 
I powder coat in lots of colors and write the loads on the sides of the cases and put a piece of paper in the box as well as a post-it on the box . Not all loads some are my standard loads ,I just do all that for ladder tests.

CC
 
I load everything to the about the same point of impact at 25 yards for pistol calibers and 100 yards for rifle calibers. This way it doesn't matter much what I'm shooting, thus no need to mark cases.
 
Well, first of all I don't do mixed brass & I use 50 rd plastic boxes.
Then I use MTM style load cards in each box.


If I'm working up a load, I'll include an additional card showing the delineation.
 
For handgun ammunition...

When working up a load, I mark the primers to differentiate between the different powder charges. Marking is important as quantities of ammunition with different powder charges is small and getting the rounds mixed up is a real possibility.

Once I've settled on a load, I pretty much do not need to mark it. I rarely have bulk quantities of more than one or two different loads and they generally have different bullets (jacketed or JHP for the hot stuff or defense rounds, cast or plated for practice/plinking ammunition). At the range, I rarely take more than one style of this ammunition so spilling a box or bag really is not an issue as long as I do not lose the card that identifies the ammunition.

For rifle, I do similar things as handgun, but I do more testing with different bullets and powder so marking is very important to keep the ammunition separate. But, again, once I settle on a load, the do not get marked. individually.

My experience with colored Sharpies is the color fades over time and some colors look like others after they have aged. Hence, I stick with black Sharpies and use numbers, shapes, or tick marks to differentiate between different ammunition.

I do not have problems identifying different loads, but often I will load up some test ammunition and won't get to shoot it right away. Then, when I get around to doing something with it, I did not write down the intended purpose and I forget what my objective was for the new load.
 
I have two instances where the loads are different. One is for the Garand. I have a separate ammo can for those loads. Clearly marked and all ammo is on clips. I have another for all other 30-06 ammo. I do the same for 45 Colt. One is for lighter loads good for the 1873 and another for all other uses. I also can use a sharpie. I do this when working up a load. I mark the side of the brass with the charge. Or I might mark the primer. The point isn't that my method would work for anyone, the point is that I have a method to my madness. Its the method. You have to have something or your left with confusion and mixed up loads.
 
I usually use different bullets for different "standard" loads but for load work-up or to mark something special I use sharpies on the primers. When the primers are expelled in the reloading process the brass is "free" to be used for any other load without confusion.
 
I generally mark primers, like Walkalong. However, when working up rifle loads, I will often actually write the powder and charge on the case itself with a Sharpie. If I spill the box, I can put everything in back in place to shoot a proper ladder. After the range outing, decap and run through my wet tumbler and the writing disappears. Would probably be just as easy to wipe down with alcohol.

In revolver rounds, I have several different loads at different power levels using the same bullets. I generally only mark the primers when doing development; the finished loads go in well marked boxes. Yes, it would be a problem (not dangerous, but potentially exciting) if they got mixed up ...
 
cfullgraf wrote:
My experience with colored Sharpies is the color fades over time...

That's part of what drove me to using fingernail polish; it too can undergo a color change with the passing decades, but while it may get darker, the red will always definitely be a red; the blue will always be recognizable as blue, the green will always be green and so on.

Once I've settled on a load, I pretty much do not need to mark it...

Once I've settled on a standardized load, the primers are marked with black fingernail polish. That lets me know it is normal production.
 
I use multiple colors when working up a load with charge weight written in the color that corresponds with the primer I marked.
I use very different bullets for plinking or hunting so there is no mistake.
 
I picked up wide sharpies from Wally world in about 7 different colors. (pack)
I mark the bases once I have them in the plastic ammo box.
Make label with notes on what color is what.
That way if you decide to mix them up just to see if you can tell them apart (BTW this must be tried at least once or twice)
you can tell whats what.
I pretty much mark all my pistol ammos bases now even if everything in the box is the same.
Sharpie comes off when tumbling wet or dry.
 
I have used different colored sharpness on the case head to designate different loads during load development I just make an X across the head. It comes of when I tumble the brass
 
That's part of what drove me to using fingernail polish; it too can undergo a color change with the passing decades, but while it may get darker, the red will always definitely be a red; the blue will always be recognizable as blue, the green will always be green and so on.

I probably need to invest in some nail polish. I can't "borrow" some from the wife as she does not use nail polish.:)

An aside, when I was shooting lots of shot gun for competitive skeet, I'd put a big "X" with a black Sharpie on the base of hulls that I planned on discarding. I do this with metallic cartridges as well but not as frequent as with the shot shells.

It's a good indicator of cases that need not be processed later.
 
When I do load development in the same caliber I use a marker and mark lines, dot, etc... on the primer area that is also written down on paper. Simple and easy system. You don't have to over think things.
 
I did for awhile use ziplock sandwich bags for a while. Would have 5 of each different charge in a bag with a piece of paper listing exactly what it was. But then I ended up having 40 bags with 5 bullets per bag sitting on a shelf since I reload multiple calibers. It got to be a pain in the butt to unroll a bag and pull out the piece of paper to see what it is. Right now, in 243 win, I have 3 different bullets and 4 different powders in all possible combinations waiting to be tested. The nail polish in plastic boxes just made it more organized for me.
 
I use an ink stamp pad, simply pressing the shell head on the pad. Quick, easy, and no messy fingers. Make sure it's an ink pad though, not a gel pad, for the gel take too long to dry.
 
I have like 5 different color sharpies and if I'm using a different powder I will color the entire headstamp that color and mark the color on my data card. If I'm doing a load workup and seeing how ive dropped an ammo box and had to return home to pull bullets because they got mixed up I now mark each load a different color or different mark like an x, star, single line, full headstamp color. When done the dry media tumbler gets rid of the color and onto the next one.
 
For handgun ammo I tend to load 'service' ammo and 'practice' ammo. Mostly they are the same velocity but the 'service' ammo has either hollowpoint, SWC or WC bullets. The practice stuff has round nosed lead.

Rifle ammo is segregated by boxes, but some rifles have only one load.
 
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