kahr404life
Member
Great thread, it makes me want to buy a model 60 again.
Marlin 60 takedown.
- Thread starter P95Carry
- Start date
- Status
P95Carry
Moderator Emeritus
HeyJerr - nice addition 
I expect the whole thread should with luck help most folks out. The relatively minbimal strip and clean should be enough for most times but your pics do give some very handy info if going even further. Thank you.
I expect the whole thread should with luck help most folks out. The relatively minbimal strip and clean should be enough for most times but your pics do give some very handy info if going even further. Thank you.
rangerruck
Member
here is a good one , too.
http://www.castbullet.com/misc/m60.htm
http://www.castbullet.com/misc/m60.htm
kilogulf59
Member
Folks I had to post something as this is one of the best threads I have ever seen on any forum.
As an M60 owner and lover...THANK YOU all and way to go!
This thread is linked at ICCF by stickfighter (one of our members) and I'm glad he did.
As an M60 owner and lover...THANK YOU all and way to go!
This thread is linked at ICCF by stickfighter (one of our members) and I'm glad he did.
P95Carry
Moderator Emeritus
Good to see the thread is still helping some folks out
Thanks for taking the time to post this.
I have one that probably has 5000 rounds through it...But the accuracy is still FAR to good for a "cheap" .22. I've been afraid to dissasemble it, for fear of messing up the accuracy. But God knows how much crude is in there!
I have one that probably has 5000 rounds through it...But the accuracy is still FAR to good for a "cheap" .22. I've been afraid to dissasemble it, for fear of messing up the accuracy. But God knows how much crude is in there!
fspitzdorf
Member
I had a friend give me a model 60 glenfield sometime in the early 90's as it would not function... main issue was a broken feed throat... replaced it whala Brownells and never could get it to function reliably... keep workin on it a bit at a time and still fight FTE or FTeject issues for various reasons... we'll get her running.. maybe tonight...
guess the mod 60 is a late model as the forward anchor point is a thru bolt vs just a claw under a thru pin...
anywho good thread and i am glad i came across it...
guess the mod 60 is a late model as the forward anchor point is a thru bolt vs just a claw under a thru pin...
anywho good thread and i am glad i came across it...
Carl N. Brown
Member
My first M60 was actually a Glenfield 99G (Glenfield was the
low price brand name for Marlin guns) and it had takedown
screws where the modern versions have the nylon split pin
and the little posts up front.
Comparing the old to the new: the new has a bolt-lock
feature with the bolt handle, the ejector is an extension of
the cartridge lifter spring, the new has a last-shot bolt hold open,
and there is more room in the receiver for gunk to accumulate
before you have to clean. The current firing pin is lighter
than the original.
On the sideplates that contain the action parts: on the new,
the pins are permanently mounted to one of the action plates,
while the other action plate was held on by C clips over the
protuding ends of the pins. On my Glenfield 99G, there were
C clips on both ends of the pins.
On the older models, the ejector was part of the feed throat,
which is a hard chrome plated cast aluminum piece. If the
chrome wears through (after, say, 20,000 rounds) the ejector
soon becomes useless. The new ejector is much more robust.
I have retro fitted an old Marlin with a new style ejector and
the current owner is quite pleased with the result.
Eventually, you can wear out the feed throat itself, allowing
cartridges to ride too high in the feedway. I have replaced
two of feedthroats for this reason and it is not a fun thing:
the action parts between the two sideplates should only be
disassembled for replacement of parts if needed and for
routine cleaning, well, thats what tooth brushes, Q-tips, and
pipe cleaners are for: to clean the firing mechanism of the
Marlin Model 60 without breaking down the parts within the
left and right sideplates.
Eleven million of these babies have been sold!
The Model 99 I believe actually came out in 1959. There was
also a version called the 49 that had a two piece stock.
And the 99M1 with a M1 carbine style stock with handguard
and short tube magazine and the 99M2 with clip feed.
(Yes, Marlin called the magazine a clip: go after Marlin for that.)
Since then the tube magazine versions have usually been called
Model 60 and the detachable box nagazine versions Model 70.
The Model 70 ejector is part of the magazine, or, clip.
The original versions had 22 inch barrels and full length tubes
for 18 round capacity. Then the New Jersey assault weapon ban,
and Marlin shortened the magazine to 14 rounds. Today, they
have shortened the barrel to match the magazine length.
For export Marlin did make a Model 60 with a ten shot tube for
countries with even more drastic magazine limitations.
low price brand name for Marlin guns) and it had takedown
screws where the modern versions have the nylon split pin
and the little posts up front.
Comparing the old to the new: the new has a bolt-lock
feature with the bolt handle, the ejector is an extension of
the cartridge lifter spring, the new has a last-shot bolt hold open,
and there is more room in the receiver for gunk to accumulate
before you have to clean. The current firing pin is lighter
than the original.
On the sideplates that contain the action parts: on the new,
the pins are permanently mounted to one of the action plates,
while the other action plate was held on by C clips over the
protuding ends of the pins. On my Glenfield 99G, there were
C clips on both ends of the pins.
On the older models, the ejector was part of the feed throat,
which is a hard chrome plated cast aluminum piece. If the
chrome wears through (after, say, 20,000 rounds) the ejector
soon becomes useless. The new ejector is much more robust.
I have retro fitted an old Marlin with a new style ejector and
the current owner is quite pleased with the result.
Eventually, you can wear out the feed throat itself, allowing
cartridges to ride too high in the feedway. I have replaced
two of feedthroats for this reason and it is not a fun thing:
the action parts between the two sideplates should only be
disassembled for replacement of parts if needed and for
routine cleaning, well, thats what tooth brushes, Q-tips, and
pipe cleaners are for: to clean the firing mechanism of the
Marlin Model 60 without breaking down the parts within the
left and right sideplates.
Eleven million of these babies have been sold!
The Model 99 I believe actually came out in 1959. There was
also a version called the 49 that had a two piece stock.
And the 99M1 with a M1 carbine style stock with handguard
and short tube magazine and the 99M2 with clip feed.
(Yes, Marlin called the magazine a clip: go after Marlin for that.)
Since then the tube magazine versions have usually been called
Model 60 and the detachable box nagazine versions Model 70.
The Model 70 ejector is part of the magazine, or, clip.
The original versions had 22 inch barrels and full length tubes
for 18 round capacity. Then the New Jersey assault weapon ban,
and Marlin shortened the magazine to 14 rounds. Today, they
have shortened the barrel to match the magazine length.
For export Marlin did make a Model 60 with a ten shot tube for
countries with even more drastic magazine limitations.
I am glad this thread was revived. I posted awhile back, but since then I have had probs with failure to load. I believe it may be the feed throat; however I have had different results depending on the brand and age of the ammo I am using.
sidewinder517
Member
- Joined
- Feb 3, 2007
- Messages
- 8
FTF probelms
My model 60 is having FTF issues.:banghead: Sometimes i get a light rim dent. the firing pin seems free and working properly. And the bolt seems to work properly. I cleaned every thing very well paying close attention to the front of the bolt and face of the barrel. still have the FTFs. so i checked the hammer to make sure the spring is good and strong and working properly still no luck.:banghead: Any suggestions?
My model 60 is having FTF issues.:banghead: Sometimes i get a light rim dent. the firing pin seems free and working properly. And the bolt seems to work properly. I cleaned every thing very well paying close attention to the front of the bolt and face of the barrel. still have the FTFs. so i checked the hammer to make sure the spring is good and strong and working properly still no luck.:banghead: Any suggestions?
P95Carry
Moderator Emeritus
Sounds like you have done all you can but .......... just in case of any significance, make sure the relief for extractor claw to side of chamber is clrear of crud.
I do think it is possible for that to sufficiently impede a round going fully into battery. If the rim is even a fraction off contact with breech face then pin has nothing to strike against properly, altho sometimes the pin impact will seat round enough to do the trick.
Is chamber also totally cleaned - I expect so but just check there is no ring of hardened crud/lube mix. Does a ''slingshot'' closure of slide give a reliable feed and chambering - and thus reliable firing? I wonder too if a more potent round would help at all.
I do think it is possible for that to sufficiently impede a round going fully into battery. If the rim is even a fraction off contact with breech face then pin has nothing to strike against properly, altho sometimes the pin impact will seat round enough to do the trick.
Is chamber also totally cleaned - I expect so but just check there is no ring of hardened crud/lube mix. Does a ''slingshot'' closure of slide give a reliable feed and chambering - and thus reliable firing? I wonder too if a more potent round would help at all.
sidewinder517
Member
- Joined
- Feb 3, 2007
- Messages
- 8
I'm using fed. hi vil. rounds. I will double check the chamber and the extractor. thank you for the help.
Well it is time for me to hop in on this. I took my model 60 apart the other day as I was getting a lot of FTF's. I gave it a good clean and re-oiled it all up. It also had a very stiff bolt. In the end I ended up cleaning every thing and did a bit of sanding on the back of Cartridge Lifter to help the bolt slide back forward.
Now keep in mind a bit of sanding was just basically enough to remove the bluing on the cartridge lifter and it was only on the top where the bolt makes contact.
I checked it out and every thing and it looked like it was working alright. I took it to the range and thats not the case. It fires fine but now its failing to eject. Basically the casing that is supposed to be ejected just stays in and the bolt comes back forward and gets jammed.
I honestly don't think it was any thing I did well cleaning it or doing the very light sanding. After reading threw this thread I think it might be a week spring.
I will try and get it taken apart in the next day or so and post pictures. I can't get a picture of the FTF but basically it ends up getting jammed on the live round, because the spent casing stays where it was. Forcing the live round to the left of it.
Now keep in mind a bit of sanding was just basically enough to remove the bluing on the cartridge lifter and it was only on the top where the bolt makes contact.
I checked it out and every thing and it looked like it was working alright. I took it to the range and thats not the case. It fires fine but now its failing to eject. Basically the casing that is supposed to be ejected just stays in and the bolt comes back forward and gets jammed.
I honestly don't think it was any thing I did well cleaning it or doing the very light sanding. After reading threw this thread I think it might be a week spring.
I will try and get it taken apart in the next day or so and post pictures. I can't get a picture of the FTF but basically it ends up getting jammed on the live round, because the spent casing stays where it was. Forcing the live round to the left of it.
P95Carry
Moderator Emeritus
Your sanding sounds like slight smoothing and should help not hinder.
If tho cases are staying in chamber it surely has to be an extraction issue - so make sure both claws have full spring tension and claws are not cracked/part missing etc. Then make double sure the extractor recesses besice chamber are clear of crud.
Other factors coming to mind are insufficient slide travel and so problems picking up and feeding new round, prior to which even if extractors hold empty - it may just go straight back into chamber!
Wish I could handle and check it all - tho that's no guarantee! But anyways, make a close up inspection of all aspects and check all springs.
If tho cases are staying in chamber it surely has to be an extraction issue - so make sure both claws have full spring tension and claws are not cracked/part missing etc. Then make double sure the extractor recesses besice chamber are clear of crud.
Other factors coming to mind are insufficient slide travel and so problems picking up and feeding new round, prior to which even if extractors hold empty - it may just go straight back into chamber!
Wish I could handle and check it all - tho that's no guarantee! But anyways, make a close up inspection of all aspects and check all springs.
P95Carry,
Your thread is still helping out more people!
I googled "Marlin 60 takedown" and your thread was one of the top results!
EXCELLENT thread! I had to register on this site just to say that if anything. Unfortunately I have more to say.
I cleaned my (20+ year old) 60 very thoroughly, aside from actually taking the action apart as shown on page 2 of this thread. I don't have any FTE's, etc. what trouble I am having is failure to load. Now, since I cleaned it, I didn't try running plain 'ol remington thunderbolts through it, only some CCI Stingers. And with every other round, the case gets crushed in the breach. Is this because the Stinger case is longer? Should I not be running these hyper-velocity rounds through this old rifle?
(I hope the regular 'ol .22LR fire good through this still - I'll find out for sure this afternoon when I get home from work)
Your thread is still helping out more people!
I googled "Marlin 60 takedown" and your thread was one of the top results!
EXCELLENT thread! I had to register on this site just to say that if anything. Unfortunately I have more to say.
I cleaned my (20+ year old) 60 very thoroughly, aside from actually taking the action apart as shown on page 2 of this thread. I don't have any FTE's, etc. what trouble I am having is failure to load. Now, since I cleaned it, I didn't try running plain 'ol remington thunderbolts through it, only some CCI Stingers. And with every other round, the case gets crushed in the breach. Is this because the Stinger case is longer? Should I not be running these hyper-velocity rounds through this old rifle?
(I hope the regular 'ol .22LR fire good through this still - I'll find out for sure this afternoon when I get home from work)
P95Carry
Moderator Emeritus
fiveflat - welcome aboard!
Glad to see the thread still has some benefit - it's been around a while now
I thought actually the regular Stinger was std .22 LR length. Anyways - I would suggest, obviously with gun pointed safe ....... eyeball the feed while operating slide by hand - and watch that for errors. Check each round comes up properly and fully as it should. Make sure slide also can go fully to rear with no obstruction.
Sounds like rounds not flipping up into line enough or fast enough - so check to see too if mag spring and plunger free, so that shoves rounds down tube with enough pressure.
Has to be an answer.
Glad to see the thread still has some benefit - it's been around a while now
I thought actually the regular Stinger was std .22 LR length. Anyways - I would suggest, obviously with gun pointed safe ....... eyeball the feed while operating slide by hand - and watch that for errors. Check each round comes up properly and fully as it should. Make sure slide also can go fully to rear with no obstruction.
Sounds like rounds not flipping up into line enough or fast enough - so check to see too if mag spring and plunger free, so that shoves rounds down tube with enough pressure.
Has to be an answer.
craig
Member
everytime my wife or i clean her 60, :banghead: , we refer to this thread. it's been most helpful.
Hey Jerr I am new to this fourm and would like to say thank you for your post on the marlin model 60 .with out your help I think I would still have a pile of parts to a Marlin model 60 sitting on my bench .again Thank You Sir........Capt Hook
P95Carry
Moderator Emeritus
Welcome Capt - once again I can only feel a sense of pleasure knowing that the thread has helped a good many folks. Of course additions after my starting post also made it even more comprehensive.
I still love my ''60'' - it probably still takes the ''plinking award'' As for my round count ....... that long ago became uncountable!
- once again I can only feel a sense of pleasure knowing that the thread has helped a good many folks. Of course additions after my starting post also made it even more comprehensive.I still love my ''60'' - it probably still takes the ''plinking award''
As for my round count ....... that long ago became uncountable!Im283
Member
another Model 60 Disassembly/Takedown
Here is alink i had to do this, it is good in its own right as is the OP's of this thread
http://www.castbullet.com/misc/m60.htm
Here is alink i had to do this, it is good in its own right as is the OP's of this thread
http://www.castbullet.com/misc/m60.htm
rangerruck
Member
farnham. stop what you are doing. if you look in the feed channel , there is a straight steel spring end, that looks like it points directly into the feed channel. it hasa a little grooved place, right next to the frame. on the feed throat assy., that it kinda fits into. take a pair of needlenose, grab the end of that pointy wire, and bend it , slightly upwards, and slightly more into, pointing towards the center of that feed channel. that hard pointy wire is what ejects the shells.
rangerruck
Member
the new feed throat kit is 15 bucks from e-parts. it is shown in picture 2 and 4 , at the beginning of the thread. it is that chrome silvery square looking thing, that is in the action block, about 1.4 inches long, and .5 inches wide.
rangerruck
Member
also in pic 4 , you can clearly see the ejector wire, sticking slightly up, above the feed channel, of that feed throat assy.
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