Mauser Compatibility

[JayZee]

Greetings everyone, hope all spirits have been well!

I may dive into a 1916 Spanish Mauser barreled action for a build. I am looking at the barreled action that was bead blasted and blued. The price is too good to pass up considering; a lot of parts are included, a barreled action that is blued and has a decent bore. No pitting or rust on any parts I already have. I like the action being barreled already so it's just bedding and assembly/fitting. Long as it head spaces correctly to the bolt? Correct me if I am over simplifying this at all please!

Stock, Handguard, Firing Pin, Firing Pin Spring, Extractor, Safety, Ejector Box, Ejector Blade, Ejector Box Screw, Trigger Spring, Sear Pin, Trigger Guard Screws, Follower Spring, Follower, Rear Sight Pin, Front Sight Blade, and the Dust Cover Pin.

That is what I would need to finish it. ^^^ I have the remaining parts with the kit/action.

Why you might ask? Well I enjoy building things, always have. The 1916 is in 7X57 which is a cartridge I already have a 1895 Mauser rifle in and love. I recently purchased a large supply of 7X57 surplus ammo as well so the timing just makes sense. I would also like a project for my father and I to build. Thought about surprising my brother with one to build as well along side mine. We could be like "The Mauser Brothers" and build them with our father.

Do small ring Mauser share any parts? I'd imagine somethings might and other parts wont. This isn't about building a franken-gun, more just knowing what spare parts I can buy and stock up on for these rifles. I found a majority of the parts so far scattered online for various prices. Money isn't the issue, but just curious what I could make work in a pinch. Any guns I own, I own parts for. Just makes sense for long term sustainability. Some parts can be made of "unobtanium" and I'd love to find a less expensive viable alternative to utilize until I get/find my unicorn parts. Plus "two is one and one is none" so I'd love to have spare parts.

 

[EO1]

That rifle has an 1893 action, so parts for the 93 & 95 will work.
Spanish receivers tend to have a reputation for being soft.
The first thing you should do however, is to invest in no go and field headspace gauges. One never knows what headspace issues might be hidden in these old receivers.

 

[Scooter22]

Another problem they can have is lug setback. M1916s were just reworked M93s. They added a hole on the left side for gas escape. But non of the 91-96 Mausers have the gas handleing on the 98. I have one of the M1916.308 conversions. I shoot cast boolits in it using light .300 Savage data.. Watch that surplus ammo. You didn't say how old it is. The powder can deteriouate. I have surplus Turk 8x57. I download that 10%. Less pressure, recoil and more accurate from the consistent charge weight. You might want to try it. Good luck.

 

[HankC]

95 is Chilean and have a rounded bolt body at the bottom. 96 is Swedish, longer bolt, and firing pin I believe, likely have different parts as well, I believe ejector block/ejector is a little different, but can be modified to fit 1893. Sort of remember I fitted one from 96 ejector. As said 1916 is a converted 1893, stick with Spanish 1893 variants. Check part compatibility at Numerich online catalog. While you say your 1916 is 7MM, I believe majority, if not all, are converted to 308. If you have a 308, don't shoot commercial 308 ammo in it. The receiver is case hardened and soft inside, I had one in 308 and bolt binds after firing, I converted it into 7.62x39. I also have a 1893 receiver and the body cracked at the barrel thread area. I had several 1893, 95 and 1916s when they were less than $100, converted 3 into 7.62x39, sold them all since parts are getting hard to find.
https://www.gunpartscorp.com/gun-manufacturer/mauser/rifles-mauser

 

[Dave DeLaurant]

You can find some potential Spanish 93/1916 issues addressed in Kuhnhausens Mauser Shop Manual. For one thing, there is a sectioned photo (p.69) showing how to spot lug setback in Spanish actions.

https://www.amazon.com/Mauser-M91-t...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=XPEEGK0W4KV1HHEZPM0F

I frequently recommend this shop series because it has so much real, been-there-done-that knowledge, presented in photos of real firearms that Kuhnhausen sectioned and photographed for clarity. If you haven't got a copy of his Mauser guide, give it a hard look.

 

[boom boom]

Do small ring Mauser share any parts? I'd imagine somethings might and other parts wont. This isn't about building a franken-gun, more just knowing what spare parts I can buy and stock up on for these rifles. I found a majority of the parts so far scattered online for various prices. Money isn't the issue, but just curious what I could make work in a pinch. Any guns I own, I own parts for. Just makes sense for long term sustainability. Some parts can be made of "unobtanium" and I'd love to find a less expensive viable alternative to utilize until I get/find my unicorn parts. Plus "two is one and one is none" so I'd love to have spare parts.

You are generally better to stick within the 1893/95/1916 small ring Mauser variants for parts compatibility. However, some of these will require fitting between models. Most of what is left is pretty well worn and you may find that the parts are as well. A 95 receiver will not fit into a 93 stock without some fitting but I cannot remember whether vice versa is true. Some Swede 94/96/m38 parts may work in the 1916 model but enough of the Spanish/Chilean/Brazilian Mauser parts are around so that you can avoid the fitting problems that may arise by using Swede parts. What is definitely out is using a Swede bolt as the Swede 6.5 cartridge has differences in oal and its case head than the Mauser 7x57.

 

[theotherwaldo]

Yeah, I've got one of those Spanish 1916 Mausers re-barreled in 7.62 CETME (NOT 7.62 NATO and definitely not .308!).
Check that, repeat check that chamber!

 

[desidog]

Yeah, I've got one of those Spanish 1916 Mausers re-barreled in 7.62 CETME (NOT 7.62 NATO and definitely not .308!).
Check that, repeat check that chamber!

Yes...but, those three cartridges have the same exterior dimensions. The difference is 7,62 CETME is a 40,000 PSI cartridge, and the .308win is a 60,000 PSI cartridge. The 1916 action is arguably NOT 60,000 PSI capable. It is a 2-lug action with poor gas handling; if you have a case head failure... well, it's gonna suck.

There's a reason those 1916's are so cheap!

OP, for the amount of loot you'll spend collecting all the parts, I'd definitely advise you to start with a '98 action (3-lug, better gas handling, and much stronger being a large ring).

 

[theotherwaldo]

Yes...but, those three cartridges have the same exterior dimensions. The difference is 7,62 CETME is a 40,000 PSI cartridge, and the .308win is a 60,000 PSI cartridge.

-That's why you have to check that chamber.
It's go/no go time.

 

[Dave DeLaurant]

Yeah, I've got one of those Spanish 1916 Mausers re-barreled in 7.62 CETME (NOT 7.62 NATO and definitely not .308!).
Check that, repeat check that chamber!

There are some misunderstandings about the chambering of the FR-7 and FR-8 -- this video has good background information:



The early CETME cartridge work is fascinating stuff. I recently read the Collector Grade book FULL CIRCLE that is about the only good source for this in English. Just went OOP and is getting pricey, but your local library can borrow a copy for you if you want some good firearms history reading.

https://www.amazon.com/Full-Circle-Treatise-Roller-Locking/dp/0889354006

 

[desidog]

It's been years since I sold my FR-7, but I seem to recall it had "7,62 Cetme" stamped on it. I sold it to a THR member...

/Still have my FR-8.

 

[Scooter22]

-That's why you have to check that chamber.
It's go/no go time.

Checking the chamber does nothing. 7.62 CETME is the same exsternaly as 7.62 NATO. Go/no go gauges will fit either. It's the pressure they were loaded to. All you have to do is not use 7.62 NATO or .308 Win ammo in them to be safe. Thats why I reload ammo for my 1916 with starting .300 Sav reloading data. It's below the pressure listed for 7x57 Mauser. This is a common thing. He can check the head space with gauges to see if thats ok. But thats a wear or mismatched bolt issue.


The 7.62×51mm CETME round is a variant of the 7.62×51mm NATO rifle cartridge with a plastic-cored lead bullet and a reduced propellant charge. The 7.62×51mm CETME is otherwise identical to the NATO standard.
It was produced as a joint venture by the Spanish Government design and development establishment known as CETME (Centro de Estudios Técnicos de Materiales Especiales, or "Center for Technical Studies of Special Materials") and the German arms manufacturer Heckler & Koch.

 

[theotherwaldo]

Checking the chamber does nothing. 7.62 CETME is the same exsternaly as 7.62 NATO. Go/no go gauges will fit either. It's the pressure they were loaded to. All you have to do is not use 7.62 NATO or .308 Win ammo in them to be safe. Thats why I reload ammo for my 1916 with starting .300 Sav reloading data. It's below the pressure listed for 7x57 Mauser. This is a common thing. He can check the head space with gauges to see if thats ok. But thats a wear or mismatched bolt issue.

Yep. That's so.
But if that rifle has been fired much with 7.62 NATO or .308 Win ammo in the past then it should show up in the chamber dimensions and lug set-back.
Thus, it really is go/no-go time for that chamber before you do anything else with that rifle.

 

[JayZee]

Thank you all for the replies. I will answer some questions and update the group.

So as to the rifles chamber it is indeed 7x57. The .308 variants would not be something I would be interested in myself. I would be sure to shoot those .308 conversions alone on the range, as in no other .308 rifles/ammo around. Hate to see an injury from accidentally using ammo too hot. I will post some pictures tomorrow of the 7x57 ammo, it is a variety of headstamps and projectile designs. I found a few 8MM Lebel rounds in there as well,one severely corroded and the other with a split neck..hairline crack but makes a nice addition to the collection for reference. Considering it was the first smokeless cartridge. I will post some pictures of various rounds I have and people can weigh in. I'd love to see if any of them would fire reliably enough to stay loaded/shoot as I load the dumped ones. Wouldn't be surprised if some of it was okay. I have separated some which I know I will be pulling and dumping since the cases are bad enough/split.

Found a youtube video that is grainy but shows a sporterization of a 98 rifle. Not bubba, gunsmith quality. Part one is a four hour, haven't gotten to part two yet. It's been extremely informative and allured me even more. Three 1916 rifles are on the way to the FFL now. I will try to post the pictures when they arrive, I think they will turn out very nice for what we plan on doing. Surprise Fathers Day gift to Dad, he said to me the other day "I am trying to stay busy, there just isn't enough for me to do around the house." so I figured ordering parts all day and finding them will help with that.

Does anyone recommend anywhere specific for aftermarket Mauser parts?

 

[boom boom]

Thank you all for the replies. I will answer some questions and update the group.

So as to the rifles chamber it is indeed 7x57. The .308 variants would not be something I would be interested in myself. I would be sure to shoot those .308 conversions alone on the range, as in no other .308 rifles/ammo around. Hate to see an injury from accidentally using ammo too hot. I will post some pictures tomorrow of the 7x57 ammo, it is a variety of headstamps and projectile designs. I found a few 8MM Lebel rounds in there as well,one severely corroded and the other with a split neck..hairline crack but makes a nice addition to the collection for reference. Considering it was the first smokeless cartridge. I will post some pictures of various rounds I have and people can weigh in. I'd love to see if any of them would fire reliably enough to stay loaded/shoot as I load the dumped ones. Wouldn't be surprised if some of it was okay. I have separated some which I know I will be pulling and dumping since the cases are bad enough/split.

Found a youtube video that is grainy but shows a sporterization of a 98 rifle. Not bubba, gunsmith quality. Part one is a four hour, haven't gotten to part two yet. It's been extremely informative and allured me even more. Three 1916 rifles are on the way to the FFL now. I will try to post the pictures when they arrive, I think they will turn out very nice for what we plan on doing. Surprise Fathers Day gift to Dad, he said to me the other day "I am trying to stay busy, there just isn't enough for me to do around the house." so I figured ordering parts all day and finding them will help with that.

Does anyone recommend anywhere specific for aftermarket Mauser parts?

Brownells and midway usa for medium cost barrels. Think midway did have some green mountain 7x57 sporter small ring barrels. Lothar walther for premium ones. Timney for triggers which are available most places either using original safety or a triggerblocking one. Scope mounts, be careful as you will need the ones for military rifles with the charger hump or you will have to grind it off.

If you can find one, there is a lever activated sporter magazine/trigger guard combo useful for sporters. These come up on parts auctions from time to time. Stocks are available depending on what you want to pay. Boyds has some midrange stocks for example.

I'm sure others will chip in.

 

[Dave DeLaurant]

Regarding your supply of surplus 7x57 ammo: you can perform a simple test using an uncoated steel nail to confirm whether it is corrosively primed, but I would just assume that it is and follow the advice given in the following video accordingly. Ballistol is your friend!