Sheepdog1968
Member
I like the fact RC that you just happened to have an old deer skull laying around. My dad has a basement full of old interesting things. Yours sounds like it might be even more interesting.
Maybe I got one more knife left in me?
- Thread starter rcmodel
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rcmodel
Member in memoriam
As a matter of fact, I do have a few 'possibles ' in the basement.
'Its possible I can make something out of that some day????'
Every time I throw something like that away?
I need it for something a week later!!
I found that deer skull in a dry creek bed about 25 years ago.
Used most of the antlers on knife handles, but kept the skull, just in case!!
Valkman:
Can't comment on how the fork would be attached yet, as I haven't got that far on thinking about it yet.
But probably a fork, with a matching fork reinforcement on the other side of a leather patch.
Then clamped together on the leather with stainless steel screws.
Then the 'patch, sewn on the back of the sheath so the blade isn't exposed to the steel screws.
Kinda the same way I do keeper buttons, snaps, etc. on the other side of the inside of a sheath or holster.
Like these.
Nothing inside the sheath but leather.
Any Hardware that could scratch the blade is hidden inside the 'patch' on the outside.
rc
'Its possible I can make something out of that some day????'
Every time I throw something like that away?
I need it for something a week later!!
I found that deer skull in a dry creek bed about 25 years ago.
Used most of the antlers on knife handles, but kept the skull, just in case!!
Valkman:
Can't comment on how the fork would be attached yet, as I haven't got that far on thinking about it yet.
But probably a fork, with a matching fork reinforcement on the other side of a leather patch.
Then clamped together on the leather with stainless steel screws.
Then the 'patch, sewn on the back of the sheath so the blade isn't exposed to the steel screws.
Kinda the same way I do keeper buttons, snaps, etc. on the other side of the inside of a sheath or holster.
Like these.
Nothing inside the sheath but leather.
Any Hardware that could scratch the blade is hidden inside the 'patch' on the outside.
rc
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kBob
Member
Neat idea. Reminds me of how the 10/22 rifle crowd was hot a couple of years back for spoon and fork handles bent around the trigger guard with the tail hanging out sort of Browning high wall like as a magazine release.
The family crest looking art on the example really ads to the look of the whole thing.
Would like some details on how the example was made. Not happening I guess.
rc will no doubt keep us informed of how he does it.
Thanks and keep going on this one , rc.
-kBob
The family crest looking art on the example really ads to the look of the whole thing.
Would like some details on how the example was made. Not happening I guess.
rc will no doubt keep us informed of how he does it.
Thanks and keep going on this one , rc.
-kBob
Where do ya'll think the "spoon" pocket clip came from?
RC's twice your age and had a better memory for these things.
RC's twice your age and had a better memory for these things.
Sheepdog1968
Member
You know RC, after seeing this, I think I'm going to sign up for some blacksmith classes locally. After you take a few of the basic classes, you can then take their knife forging class. I think it would be cool to make my own hunting knife. After that, I'd have to take their leather working class to make the holster and a sling for the rifle.
Smokey Joe
Member
- Joined
- Jan 2, 2003
- Messages
- 2,617
Blacksmithing/forging classes...
Sheepdog--Where you find out where these classes might be held??
Sheepdog--Where you find out where these classes might be held??
Look at the American Bladesmiths Society website for a schedule of classes on forging. I was the safety officer for the ABS Youth Hammer-In for a decade and we taught a couple of hundred kids to forge.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
No progress on the knife today.
Instead, mowing the yard & running errands.
(Besides, the scrimshaw has me spooked!!)
But I worked out the silverware belt clip in my dreams last night!
So, I made it this evening.
This is the back, which will be glued & sewn tight against the back of the sheath.
I silver-braised part of the fork handle back on for extra support inside the sheath patch.
(Probably do it again with a complete fork so it won't be as thick in the sandwich.)
Front side, showing sorta how it will look.
(Thinking about doing some file work like I put on the complete fork on it to before I put it on.)
I made the clip extra long, (3 1/4"), to fit a pistol belt.
It will also allow a left side Cross-Draw angle tilt on a regular pants belt.
Parts are screwed to the leather with 6-32 Stainless Steel flat-head screws.
MISTAKE #4: Should have drilled and counter-sink the holes before bending the fork double!
No room to drill them!!
Had to heat the fork red hot and bend it to the left to drill the right hole.
Then heat it red hot again and bend it to the right to drill the left hole.
Then heat it red hot again and bend it back in the middle!! :banghead:
rc
Instead, mowing the yard & running errands.
(Besides, the scrimshaw has me spooked!!)
But I worked out the silverware belt clip in my dreams last night!
So, I made it this evening.
This is the back, which will be glued & sewn tight against the back of the sheath.
I silver-braised part of the fork handle back on for extra support inside the sheath patch.
(Probably do it again with a complete fork so it won't be as thick in the sandwich.)
Front side, showing sorta how it will look.
(Thinking about doing some file work like I put on the complete fork on it to before I put it on.)
I made the clip extra long, (3 1/4"), to fit a pistol belt.
It will also allow a left side Cross-Draw angle tilt on a regular pants belt.
Parts are screwed to the leather with 6-32 Stainless Steel flat-head screws.
MISTAKE #4: Should have drilled and counter-sink the holes before bending the fork double!
No room to drill them!!
Had to heat the fork red hot and bend it to the left to drill the right hole.
Then heat it red hot again and bend it to the right to drill the left hole.
Then heat it red hot again and bend it back in the middle!! :banghead:
rc
lobo9er
Member
broken record here but Nice work RC. looks awesome.
If the fork isn't solid sterling file work will go through the plate and you'll end up with an unsatisfactory result.
You can always do the scrim later after you've completed the project. Anyway, we'd like to see it complete before you start embellishing.
You can always do the scrim later after you've completed the project. Anyway, we'd like to see it complete before you start embellishing.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
O.k.
* I'll stop posting progress pictures every day.
* Scrimshaw will have to be done before the handle is attached to the knife.
(In case I screw it up, and have to flat-sand the handle again to erase the mistake.)
* Forks are not silver-plate.
* They are solid stainless steel, cheap restaurant flatware.
* They are not silver plated.
PS: Another revolting development today.
My old Dremel tool shot craps while I was polishing the inside of the clip!
Guess I need to buy a new one before I finish this knife!
Everything I have is wore out!!!
rc
* I'll stop posting progress pictures every day.
* Scrimshaw will have to be done before the handle is attached to the knife.
(In case I screw it up, and have to flat-sand the handle again to erase the mistake.)
* Forks are not silver-plate.
* They are solid stainless steel, cheap restaurant flatware.
* They are not silver plated.
PS: Another revolting development today.
My old Dremel tool shot craps while I was polishing the inside of the clip!
Guess I need to buy a new one before I finish this knife!
Everything I have is wore out!!!
rc
Last edited:
Gun Master
Member
If it works, well.........
Valkman
Member
Why would you stop posting pics? We love them and the progress reports!
bannockburn
Member
- Joined
- Apr 24, 2007
- Messages
- 26,299
rc
Things to do list:
1) Buy a new Dremel.
2) Continue to post pics and updates.
3) Post lots of pics when finished.
Things to do list:
1) Buy a new Dremel.
2) Continue to post pics and updates.
3) Post lots of pics when finished.
Why? The posting of the steps you're following are valuable and interesting.
No plate to file through so no problem there.
I'm not a fan of risk or scrim in most cases since I avoid "gilding the lily" for most the most part. Of course it makes sense that you could just sand off the scrim if there's a slip.
bikerdoc
Moderator In Memoriam
On sheaths.
The few I have made I have copied an existing design for a pattern and cut it out of a flat sheet of leather.
For stitching I use waxed string or braided dental floss.
Now take us to school
The few I have made I have copied an existing design for a pattern and cut it out of a flat sheet of leather.
For stitching I use waxed string or braided dental floss.
Now take us to school
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
I will do the sheath design & construction, but its going to be a while.
I have been screwing around with the deer horn dangles mounts half a day.
Still not happy with them.
Broke one today! :banghead:
So I drilled them and put a S/S wire down the center of them.
But I'm getting tired of messing with them.
And I still have to polish them out!!
Deer skull 'Eagle Talons:
Picked up some Needles at the vet today for scrimshawing:
rc
I have been screwing around with the deer horn dangles mounts half a day.
Still not happy with them.
Broke one today! :banghead:
So I drilled them and put a S/S wire down the center of them.
But I'm getting tired of messing with them.
And I still have to polish them out!!
Deer skull 'Eagle Talons:
Picked up some Needles at the vet today for scrimshawing:
rc
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srtolly
Member
You are a true craftsman RC. I've made quite a few sheaths and holsters but never tried a knife before. You've inspired me to try it one day, soon. Thanks for the inspiration.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
Another project started tonight.
A homemade Scrimshaw tool!!
Tore up a cheap electric toothbrush to see what makes it tick.
Tunes out the motor makes the drive recropicate front to back.
So, if I can figure out how to harness it to one Hypo needle (bushing) inside another one (Cutter), I can make a scrimshaw machine.
Maybe???
(Kinda like a tattoo tool.
Only for scratching lines in Micarta knife scales!)
PS: still playing with eagle designs.
Think I'm going with a white (lighter color) eagle photo for the right, Liberty side.
And a much darker one for the left death side.
rc
A homemade Scrimshaw tool!!
Tore up a cheap electric toothbrush to see what makes it tick.
Tunes out the motor makes the drive recropicate front to back.
So, if I can figure out how to harness it to one Hypo needle (bushing) inside another one (Cutter), I can make a scrimshaw machine.
Maybe???
(Kinda like a tattoo tool.
Only for scratching lines in Micarta knife scales!)
PS: still playing with eagle designs.
Think I'm going with a white (lighter color) eagle photo for the right, Liberty side.
And a much darker one for the left death side.
rc
Last edited:
Valkman
Member
That's cool RC! When you're done you can give me a tattoo!
Scrimshaw machine? The scrimshanders I've known use carbide tipped scribes because of the material hardness they're scribing. I've never seen a powered scrim graver outside of the expensive ones demoed at Blade Show.
doubleh
Member
This has been an interesting thread. I'm always interested in how others go about doing what they do.
" Every thing I have is wore out". Know what you mean and in my case it includes me.
" Every thing I have is wore out". Know what you mean and in my case it includes me.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
More bad luck today!
I took the burnt up Dremel apart and got the shaft out of it.
Decided to make a dremel chuck adaptor for my 1/4" Fordom Flex-Shaft tool as I couldn't find a Dremel I liked in town today.
And ain't got time to wait ordering one!
So, while I was turning the 7mm shaft down to .250", my mini-Lathe stripped a gear in the cross-feed, and locked up tighter then a gnats south end.
Two hours later I got the gear out of the lathe gear box, and its well beyond repair, so I will have to order a new gear from China!!
Anyway, I got it running again without the cross-feed working, and finished the chuck adaptor.
Now, the 1/4" Fordom tool with take 1/8", 3/32"and 1/16" Dremel bits & tiny carbide dental burs!
And that folks, is all I accomplished on the knife project today!
Like I said, it seems Everything I got is wore out!!! :banghead:
rc
I took the burnt up Dremel apart and got the shaft out of it.
Decided to make a dremel chuck adaptor for my 1/4" Fordom Flex-Shaft tool as I couldn't find a Dremel I liked in town today.
And ain't got time to wait ordering one!
So, while I was turning the 7mm shaft down to .250", my mini-Lathe stripped a gear in the cross-feed, and locked up tighter then a gnats south end.
Two hours later I got the gear out of the lathe gear box, and its well beyond repair, so I will have to order a new gear from China!!
Anyway, I got it running again without the cross-feed working, and finished the chuck adaptor.
Now, the 1/4" Fordom tool with take 1/8", 3/32"and 1/16" Dremel bits & tiny carbide dental burs!
And that folks, is all I accomplished on the knife project today!
Like I said, it seems Everything I got is wore out!!! :banghead:
rc
RetiredUSNChief
Member
I've just been catching up on this thread after a few days.
For the soldered inlays...attempting to "clean up" a solder job by reapplying heat is a very touchy job that rarely works well. I'm speaking from years of electronics experience and a fair share of plumbing work along the way.
In general, if you want a better, or "perfect", repair job you're far better off starting from scratch.
Also, since you're using silver solder, your attempt to use desoldering wick may have been doomed to failure in the first place because it wasn't intended for such high temperature desolder work using a torch. Your best bet for this would be a metal tipped vacuum pump desoldering tool. You can get them with a squeeze bulb which does the vacuum sucking action.
That said, here are my recommendations:
1. Remove the inlay and excess solder by carefully milling it out. You already have the setup to do this, since you created the guard in the first place. Then repeat the installation process using a new braided wire.
2. Get a metal tipped vacuum desoldering tool with a squeeze bulb. Do a practice run or three on some scrap pieces soldered together to get the hang of it. Then quickly heat your guard and suck the excess off. After cooling and cleaning the guard, and maybe buffing, inspect the inlay and evaluate the need to carefully reheat and resolder as required to restore proper appearance.
Either method, I'd recommend fabricating an aluminum heat sink that you can clamp to the opposite side of the guard. Aluminum makes an outstanding heat sink and, unlike water, doesn't evaporate or spread out into a wet mess. Make it a relatively large (compared to the guard) block of Aluminum and clamp it to the guard and tang firmly. You could do this by milling out a block to allow the guard face and tang to lay flush against the Aluminum block and clamp it in place using a small C-Clamp on the tang. Maximum, firm surface area contact is the goal.
Such a heat sink would be excellent anytime you're doing such temperature sensitive work as this, where you're worried about affecting previously soldered work.
For the soldered inlays...attempting to "clean up" a solder job by reapplying heat is a very touchy job that rarely works well. I'm speaking from years of electronics experience and a fair share of plumbing work along the way.
In general, if you want a better, or "perfect", repair job you're far better off starting from scratch.
Also, since you're using silver solder, your attempt to use desoldering wick may have been doomed to failure in the first place because it wasn't intended for such high temperature desolder work using a torch. Your best bet for this would be a metal tipped vacuum pump desoldering tool. You can get them with a squeeze bulb which does the vacuum sucking action.
That said, here are my recommendations:
1. Remove the inlay and excess solder by carefully milling it out. You already have the setup to do this, since you created the guard in the first place. Then repeat the installation process using a new braided wire.
2. Get a metal tipped vacuum desoldering tool with a squeeze bulb. Do a practice run or three on some scrap pieces soldered together to get the hang of it. Then quickly heat your guard and suck the excess off. After cooling and cleaning the guard, and maybe buffing, inspect the inlay and evaluate the need to carefully reheat and resolder as required to restore proper appearance.
Either method, I'd recommend fabricating an aluminum heat sink that you can clamp to the opposite side of the guard. Aluminum makes an outstanding heat sink and, unlike water, doesn't evaporate or spread out into a wet mess. Make it a relatively large (compared to the guard) block of Aluminum and clamp it to the guard and tang firmly. You could do this by milling out a block to allow the guard face and tang to lay flush against the Aluminum block and clamp it in place using a small C-Clamp on the tang. Maximum, firm surface area contact is the goal.
Such a heat sink would be excellent anytime you're doing such temperature sensitive work as this, where you're worried about affecting previously soldered work.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
Yea, that's what I should do.
And I appreciate the advice!
But I don't have the resources to do all that.
I'm down to about the last of the nickel-silver wire, and don't plan to buy any more.
And I don't have enough of it left to do it again.
(Trying to use up the last of the knife-making supplies on this last knife.)
Plus, I don't have a real milling machine to do a big fitted aluminum heat sink.
(Or a spare block of aluminum.)
Bottom line?
It is what it is, and it will be what it turns out to be.
Good, or bad?
Warts & all.
rc
And I appreciate the advice!
But I don't have the resources to do all that.
I'm down to about the last of the nickel-silver wire, and don't plan to buy any more.
And I don't have enough of it left to do it again.
(Trying to use up the last of the knife-making supplies on this last knife.)
Plus, I don't have a real milling machine to do a big fitted aluminum heat sink.
(Or a spare block of aluminum.)
Bottom line?
It is what it is, and it will be what it turns out to be.
Good, or bad?
Warts & all.
rc
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