Hey guys, just got back from the range and i had couple concerns about my mini 14, 1st being how hard it ejects the brass... i am trying to be able to reload as many casings as possible but every case it seems like is just being smashed and or flung way past the firing line, and my 2nd issue is I just started reloading only took 6 tester bullets and each shot had a more noticeable muzzle flash than factory made ammo, I used 69gr HPBT sierra bullets, imr4320 powder - loaded with 23gr's, CCI primers, and i had the bullets OAL between 2.257-2.260.... would love theories or explanations as to what would cause the Muzzle flash to be more noticeable. I have also Never shot Hollow points ... so Please tell me if that is normal of them.
Mini 14 Ejection and muzzle flash
- Thread starter frenzy731
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Commercial loads often use powders that include a flash suppressant. Typical powders available to reloaders do not. Slower burning powders also often flash more.
And regarding ejection, that is pretty much what Mini-14s do. A stronger recoil spring could help.
And regarding ejection, that is pretty much what Mini-14s do. A stronger recoil spring could help.
benEzra
Moderator Emeritus
The Mini-14 Forum is a good resource for mini-14 mods, such as fitting a smaller gas bushing for gentler cycling and case ejection. That may also improve accuracy somewhat. Just don't go so small that you compromise reliability.
As to muzzle flash, an 18.5" .223 with a bare muzzle will have a good bit of flash with a standard powder. If it's distracting when shooting, you could always have the muzzle threaded by a gunsmith and put a good flash suppressor on there, like a SEI Vortex or AAC Blackout. I have a Vortex on my 16" AR and it makes it much more pleasant to shoot, in my opinion.
As to muzzle flash, an 18.5" .223 with a bare muzzle will have a good bit of flash with a standard powder. If it's distracting when shooting, you could always have the muzzle threaded by a gunsmith and put a good flash suppressor on there, like a SEI Vortex or AAC Blackout. I have a Vortex on my 16" AR and it makes it much more pleasant to shoot, in my opinion.
ROAshooter
member
flash
Just a comment about muzzle flash.....I have a CZ527FS....in 223....and my wife has a CZ527 Carbine....223.....shooting the same ammo ..out of the same box...the wifes CZ has a LOT of flash....but mine does NOT...only difference is two inches of barrel length.....it can be just that small of a difference....
Just a comment about muzzle flash.....I have a CZ527FS....in 223....and my wife has a CZ527 Carbine....223.....shooting the same ammo ..out of the same box...the wifes CZ has a LOT of flash....but mine does NOT...only difference is two inches of barrel length.....it can be just that small of a difference....
benEzra
Moderator Emeritus
I've never changed a gas bushing, but you have to unscrew the four screws that hold the upper and lower halves of the gas block together, then change the bushing and carefully reassemble. It is important to tighten all the screws evenly so the gas block is squared up, and to get the torque right, but conceptually it looks pretty simple.
The recoil spring is a snap to change; it's the same spring you take out every time you field strip the rifle.
The recoil spring is a snap to change; it's the same spring you take out every time you field strip the rifle.
If he won't let you borrow it or for some reason it won't work, you can get rental tools for free from Autozone. When I was away from home I had to do that once to work on an AR-15 with a loose barrel nut. You basically buy the used tool and then they fully refund you when you return it.
carbine85
Member
Perfectunion.com has a lot of information.
The Mini is known for extreme ejection. I installed a smaller gas port bushing and corrected that.
I'm not familiar with the powder. I use a lot of IMR4895 and the flash isn't bas at all.
The Mini is known for extreme ejection. I installed a smaller gas port bushing and corrected that.
I'm not familiar with the powder. I use a lot of IMR4895 and the flash isn't bas at all.
HoosierQ
Member
Every spent case ejected from my mini is still in orbit
I couldn't shoot it at a range unless I was in the rightmost lane or nobody else was to the right of me. It was awkward. On the farm, since I don't reload, never cared much.
I couldn't shoot it at a range unless I was in the rightmost lane or nobody else was to the right of me. It was awkward. On the farm, since I don't reload, never cared much.ColoradoShooter77
Member
I agree about the ejection pattern, its a good 30 feet to the right. I shoot in the Natl Forest, so it isn't a big deal. I bought one of those big Caldwell brass catchers on the stand, catches all my brass.
http://www.amazon.com/Caldwell-1225...095980&sr=8-4&keywords=caldwell+brass+catcher
http://www.amazon.com/Caldwell-1225...095980&sr=8-4&keywords=caldwell+brass+catcher
This is what I did to tame down my Mini 14. Use an allen key (the individual right angle ones you can get as a set at the tool store) to loosen the 4 screws, they will be tight because the factory stakes the threads. Take out the factory bushing and use a digital caliper to measure the thousands of an inch length of the new one to the old one (a digital caliper is like $15 at harbor freight). You don't want the new bushing to be longer than the old one, if it is then file or grind it down slightly, or else it will get jammed into the barrel when you tighten the gas block down. The gas bushing sits in a recess in the barrel, and also a recess in the gas port pipe that goes to the op rod. In this stolen pic the arrow is what you are replacing:
Reassemble the gas block, put blue thread locker on the bolts, and tighten the gas block so the gap between the upper and lower halves is even on both sides. The gas port pipe should have a slight wiggle play when everything is snug, if it doesn't then the gas bushing is probably still too long and getting jammed into the barrel. A good way to not over torque the bolts is to tighten them using the long end of the allen key in the bolt and short end as the handle and snug them up good, you won't break them this way.
Get a set of 1911 pistol recoil buffers and put one around the base of the op rod to dampen the impact when the op rod slams forward, and another around the recoil spring guide rod to buffer when the op rod slams into the receiver. These stolen pics will explain:
Get a bunch of them, as they get beaten up after 500-1000 rounds. Check to make sure that the buffer isn't too thick to prevent the bolt locking open on an empty mag.
These two mods have cut the recoil by probably 30% and the brass only goes 20 feet instead of 40 feet. You might still get some dings in the brass when it gets ejected and spins around and strikes the op rod, mini's are not kind to brass.
Reassemble the gas block, put blue thread locker on the bolts, and tighten the gas block so the gap between the upper and lower halves is even on both sides. The gas port pipe should have a slight wiggle play when everything is snug, if it doesn't then the gas bushing is probably still too long and getting jammed into the barrel. A good way to not over torque the bolts is to tighten them using the long end of the allen key in the bolt and short end as the handle and snug them up good, you won't break them this way.
Get a set of 1911 pistol recoil buffers and put one around the base of the op rod to dampen the impact when the op rod slams forward, and another around the recoil spring guide rod to buffer when the op rod slams into the receiver. These stolen pics will explain:
Get a bunch of them, as they get beaten up after 500-1000 rounds. Check to make sure that the buffer isn't too thick to prevent the bolt locking open on an empty mag.
These two mods have cut the recoil by probably 30% and the brass only goes 20 feet instead of 40 feet. You might still get some dings in the brass when it gets ejected and spins around and strikes the op rod, mini's are not kind to brass.
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Extra powerful spring means slower extraction but more powerful feeding (slamming) forward. I'd go with those buffers and a factory spring. Here's why. If the forward motion of the bolt is too fast because of a stronger spring, then magazine spring may not be fast enough to push the fresh cartridge up in time for the bolt to strip it off and feed it into the chamber. It may have feeding issues now (or mebbe not).
okay, so i will get some of those buffers, I keep reading for the spring that it just needs a break in period kind of, and for the buffers to get a bunch of the 1911's and what is the best way to know which gas port bushing is best for my use ?
Milkmaster
Member
Just buy yourself an adjustable gas black with a knob on it. That's what I did. SHut it off completely if you want a single shot like at the range in closer quarters. Otherwise open it until the brass is thrown whatever distance you prefer. Works like a champ for me. Get a Mo-Reaper muzzle brake to help with the flash. No modifications necessary.
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