Minor rust

[Blkhrt13]

i have a beater that got some humidity to it. It manifested in a spot or two of rust. What is a good thing to use so I can kill it and keep it heavy oiled till I can coat it again? I know there is new stuff out there.

 

[Odd Job]

Folks will want to know more: where is the rust, how deep, how bad?
Pics would help also!

 

[troy fairweather]

oooo steel wool and some oil.

 

[Blkhrt13]

Will post pics tomorrow

 

[nettlle]

0000 steel wool and some oil. But not on a stainless anything.

 

[JeeperCreeper]

https://www.wd40.com/products/corrosion-inhibitor/

I've heard good things about the WD-40 specialist series. There are a couple other WD-40 products that may help.

Or, just clean it and give it a quick spot of quality spray paint if you plan on recoating it eventually

 

[Slamfire]

i have a beater that got some humidity to it. It manifested in a spot or two of rust. What is a good thing to use so I can kill it and keep it heavy oiled till I can coat it again? I know there is new stuff out there.

I don't know that rust propagates without oxygen, but I can't see how it does. Rust is iron oxidizing. I do believe that rust gives a greater surface area for oxygen to attack so knocking it down is probably a good thing.

Once you smooth it out, have you thought about paint? Paint is outstanding in blocking oxygen migration. I have not researched primers, other than observing how steel rusts after a coating of primer and a top coat of paint. And the combination is really good, much better at rust resistance than the black oxide coating we call "bluing". If your beater is a beater, and how shiny and bright it is does not matter for bragging purpose, then consider covering the rusted areas, or more, with primer and paint. Paint is easy to restore. You just paint it back on, typically I use spray paints. I use spray paint on shovels, axes, hoes, etc. Shed storage is not in any sense of the word, environmentally controlled. Steel items rust in my shed, but if I hose off the mud, use a brush to knock off the real difficult stuff, let dry, and spray paint, the tools in the shed stay rust free for years, till I get back to them.

 

[SGW Gunsmith]

oooo steel wool and some oil.

That's similar as to what I prefer, as long as it's surface light rust. #0000 steel wool soaked with Break-Free CLP. Buff lightly over the rust to get it off and then the CLP will protect the finish.

 

[entropy]

Oil and fingernail if light. 0000 steel wool, lightly, if more stubborn.

 

[skeeterfogger]

I smooth it leaving patina the use a q-tip to apply Ospho. Let dry then wipe with damp cloth. It typically leaves a flat black color. Matches up pretty good on the dark blachish bluing. Use steel wool to thin the color out and reblue if needed. The Ospho will kill iron oxide completely.
Only caution is to be careful because the Ospho will remove bluing. Just dab the area carefully.
Any way, works for me.

 

[Blkhrt13]

I’m going to try steel wool I have scotch brute but I don’t know if it’s more aggressive than the wool

 

[troy fairweather]

Don't use scotch brite

 

[Blkhrt13]

Yeah I figured it would take all the finish off before it got to the rust

 

[SGW Gunsmith]

I've also had pretty darn good luck with very fine "bronze wool".

 

[boom boom]

Just make sure that you use a light oil to "float" the particles and daub up the rust particles with swabs, patches, or a rag as you loosen them. These particles are abrasive and will scratch the surrounding bluing if you do not remove them.

To do it right on a fine finish like a classic era Colt or Smith pistol is rather tedious. A copper penny (not the ones with zinc but the old timers) can work as a scraper as can a crushed case mouth of a brass shell cartridge. I usually use Kroil soak first to loosen the rust and then remove fine powdery type rust using bronze wool or if it is crusty sort using a penny, a brass shell cartridge, bronze or nylon brush, etc.

Sometimes I will use 0000 steel wool on military rifles as the finishes on these is often rougher anyway. A cleaner called Blue Wonder when used as specified along with the Kroil soak has given me the best results.

 

[troy fairweather]

I like using atf I think the detergent in it helps.

 

[bannockburn]

I have had very good results from using Flitz on guns that had rust on them. Gently apply it with a clean cotton cloth to the area of rust and remove it once it has dried. Have yet to have it damage or remove any bluing or plating that it's been used on.

 

[Scooter22]

I'm a bit late to the party but best rust remover I've used is a Big 45 pad. I've been using them for about 10 years since I found them. Wount scratch or thin the blue liike steel wool will. Every gun owner should have one. Buy it from the maker. Cheapest and you know your not getting a fake. It IS NOT a stainless steel pot scrubber These really work. Good luck.
http://www.big45metalcleaner.com/

 

[SGW Gunsmith]

I sell quite a few of those at gun shows:

 

[Scooter22]

I should have also said I'd trust buying from a reputable seller/dealer. Not just a random add on the net'. I've been shocked at how well they clean without damaging the original finish. I picked up a 60,s era Rem 552 with flash rust on most of the blueing. After using one of these with gun oil the thing looked almost new. I used them to clean up many milsurps without damaging the finish/patina. Absolutely worth trying one. I bet you will buy more. I have nothing to do with that company. Just very pleased with such a good product.

 

[Rex B]

If you just want to prevent further rust coat with lanolin and gun oil 50/50. It will not rust further