Mobil 1

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Mainiac

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I've read quite a bit on this site from those of you that use Mobil 1 on youe firearms. I'm going to try it on a couple of them that I own to see if I like it. Question, what weight oil are you using? Do you use a different weight in the winter? Any other info would be appreciated. Thanks.



R.T.
 
Forgive my thread hijack

OP please forgive me if you view this as a thread hijack but as much as I have read everything I could from these threads I have not heard of using MOBIL 1. You're telling me that after the range I can use something like Hoppes 9 to clean the gun and then just use MOBIL 1 to oil them. I don't mean to challenge you on it i'm just in disbelief that this can be done on any other gun than a commie block gun ( for which i love). Thank you for your explanation and patience.
 
I've been using some sort of synthetic motor oil on my guns for the last 6 months and it seems to work fine. Don't remember if I got the 30W or the 40W, probably doesn't matter. A quart of even the synthetic stuff is less than $3 and seems to work just as well as the "gun oil" that's $6 for a tiny little bottle.

The only thing I'm not sure about is if this stuff evaporates faster, slower, or the same as gun oil. I don't think it matters though, even if it evaporates faster I have so much of it it's nothing to put a little bit on the action and slide of one of my safe queens when I do take it out to the range.
 
ByAnyMeans- Mobil 1 is pretty popular as a firearm lube and there are at least dozens of posts singing its (or is it it's) praises. As soon as i am out of all of the little bottles of gun oil I already have, that will be my next gun oil purchase. It's too cheap not to.
 
ATAShooter may have something here with the 0w formulation. i have always used lube VERY SPARINGLY at hunting season, so i wouldn't have to worry about things getting stiff.
 
I've been using it on all my guns that get oil for about a year now, and have had no malfunctions, no issues, and even guns that were oiled and have sat unfired the entire year, still have a decent thin coat on them, so it doesn't seem to run off (if used in a reasonable amount), or evaporate as much as many "true" gun oils I have tried. I think I have 10 or 15W-40. Have to look to be certain. The temps here dont really get too extreme in hot or cold, so here I don't think the weight is much of an issue, other than not getting something so thing it just runs off while sitting, or sprays off too easily while shooting.I have also found clean up to be no easier or harder than with standard oils.
 
I use Mobil 1 in my vehicles and I use gun lubricants on my firearms. Each is made for a specific application and I don't use them for anything else.
 
Back in the middle 90's the only synthetic oil was motor oil. IIRC Mobil 1 was the first on the market. My Dept's. range officer was using Mobil 1 30 weight and recommended we do the same. There was no synthetic "gun" oil on the market at the time.

Since then several "for gun" synthetic oils are on the market. I try to use "for gun" lubes and cleaners as much as possible. Why, when automotive stuff is cheaper? Simply put it doesn't void my guns warranty. I almost lost the trigger group of my Marlin Camp because I used brake cleaner instead of a "for gun" product.

Remember motor oil had chemicals in it to clean your engine. I would test my oil of choice on the finish of my weapon in a unseen place first. This goes for plastics and wood also.

All that said, I still have a quart of Mobil 1 on hand.
 
I've used several 10w30 motor oils on my Glocks, S&W 22a, and the two 1911s I owned (past tense).
They worked great and didn't "dry out" as fast as rem oil.
 
Y'know, firearms and internal combustion engines really aren't too dissimilar... Both have parts that are subject to high stress, high temperature, and carbon build-up.

So using automotive oil on a gun probably isn't too far away from it's intended use. Especially if that gun happens to be full auto, with a high cyclic rate.


J.C.
 
ive got a quart of Amsoil sitting in my tool box... i guess that will keep me from having to buy more gun oil...
 
Question, what weight oil are you using? Do you use a different weight in the winter?

The heaviest I can find in my area, 15W50. Despite being that heavy, it is still quite relatively thin (even in the winter). By being heavier than the other grades, it will, hopefully, stay in place longer and not run out.
 
Mainiac,

I have used Mobil 1 20W50 (VTWIN) fully (PAO based) synthetic oil for several years, all year round on all of my guns (pistols: Glock's, HK's, S&W's, Rugers and rifles: Tikka T3's, AKM-47's, Winchester M70's) with excellent performance and a lot of satisfaction. While I do prefer the M1 20W50, M1 10W40 (MX4T) synthetic is also a great substitute if the 20W50 'synth' is unavailable. They can be found at motorcycle dealerships and repair shops since they are both motorcycle engine oils.

Both grades have quite an impressive operating temperature range and will serve quite well in this capacity in both the hottest and coldest environments that you might wish to endure.


20W50 (VTWIN)
Pour Point: -59.8 F
Flash Point (C.O.C.): +518.0 F
Visc. @ 100F: 130.0 cSt
Visc. @ 212F: 17.7 cSt
VI: 151


10W40 (MX4T)
Pour Point: -65.2 F
Flash Point (C.O.C.): +487.4 F
Visc. @ 100F: 86.0 cSt
Visc. @ 212F: 13.8 cSt
VI: 166

Regards,
 
I have been using synthetic motor oil on all my firearms for a few years now and am very happy with the results.

works great on revolvers, semi's, even the AR likes it.

side note: make sure to use a high quality oil filter on your evil black rifles:D
 
Yeah, motor oil would work fine on guns. I haven't used it on guns yet, but that's because I still have some "gun" products, and once those are gone, hello Mobil 1.

Engine oil is made to deal with carbon deposits and lubrication of metal parts in a high temperature and high pressure environment while protecting against corrosion. That sounds remarkably similar to the environment inside my guns.
 
hksw said:
The heaviest I can find in my area, 15W50. Despite being that heavy, it is still quite relatively thin (even in the winter). By being heavier than the other grades, it will, hopefully, stay in place longer and not run out.
Ditto -- 15W50 here. I also add just a tiny amount of extra fine molybdenum disulphide powder (which you can buy from places like Midway) for the extra lubricity and the plating action it adds to the oil. (Moly has an affinity for steel.)
 
I use Mobil 1 5W/30. I'm pretty sure any of the other brands of synthetic oils will work just as well.
 
I also use Mobil 1. I build engines for a living and am a machinist by trade. I use 0w-40 and it stays in place and works great, I would say all my guns run better with it. The only draw back I have seen is minor wear marks on my dads re-parked 1911 but after 5,000 rounds I also wouldn't say it was excessive wear by any means. I get it at cost and for a couple dollars 1 quart will last for a long time. I use a syringe and apply it where it is needed and wipe off the excess.
 
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