Why would the barrel appear to be overtightened or rotated past center? I am guessing a degree, enough the be visible. How would it be squared up?What should the gap bwtween the cylinder and barrel be? It may be about 1mm gap currently. Its a 71/2" barrel.
Mod 629 Barrel Rotated
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SigfanUSAF
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.0393"s a lot of bbl to cyl gap. At this point you may want to consider sending it to a smith to have the barrel set back a turn, that would correct your bbl to reciever timing. The forcing cone would be filed/milled as nec. to give you the proper gap.
1 mm is a lot of gap; I wonder if you could be mistaken in measuring. A gap of 0.19 - 0.20mm (.007-008") would be normal for S&W.
As to the idea of setting the barrel back, that would not be feasible on an S&W due to the front latch. As to why the barrel is off, the simple answer is that someone goofed, and I doubt that it was the S&W factory.
S&W, though, is my suggestion for correcting the problem. A second possibility is www.cylinder-slide.com which does work on revolvers.
Jim
As to the idea of setting the barrel back, that would not be feasible on an S&W due to the front latch. As to why the barrel is off, the simple answer is that someone goofed, and I doubt that it was the S&W factory.
S&W, though, is my suggestion for correcting the problem. A second possibility is www.cylinder-slide.com which does work on revolvers.
Jim
SigfanUSAF
Member
Front latch? You mean the lock in the bbl for the ejector rod? I know for a fact that we've set back the barrels on many an S&W at my dads shop. I have never done a 629, but recently did a model 29 for a gent. Antique S&W is what we specialize in, check out the website below. (Keep in mind I am not claiming to be an expert, I just work for my dad part time)
SigfanUSAF
Member
It means to turn the barrel in a lathe and remove some material from the shoulder of the barrel where it contacts the frame. This effectively allows you to rotate the barrel further into the frame, a common fix for bbl to cyl gap. The ammount of material removed is very slight, however, you only want to remove enough to rotate the barrel inward 1 revolution. Though over the life of a heavily used revolver, this may me done 1-2, sometimes 3 times before you need to replace the barrel.
Magnumite
Member
If the ejector rod latch length was an issue after setting the barrel back, then one would only have to turn down the ejector rod an equal amount and relieve the countersink in the end of the rod. No biggie.
What I would ask is what makes the barrel appear to be canted? Are you seeing the sights on different planes while aligning the sights, looking at where the barrel underlug meets the frame, etc?
What I would ask is what makes the barrel appear to be canted? Are you seeing the sights on different planes while aligning the sights, looking at where the barrel underlug meets the frame, etc?
robear
Member
I had this EXACT same problem with my 629 several years ago. It was as if the barrel was too tight on the frame.
Ended up sending it back to S&W. Got it back in perfect condition. That's what I would recommend.
Robear
Ended up sending it back to S&W. Got it back in perfect condition. That's what I would recommend.
Robear
BBBBill
Member
I've seen numerous S&W revos with over torqued barrels. I own two like that right now. Seems to have been pretty prevalent about ten years ago, but not seeing it lately. Never saw it back when barrels were pinned.
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