Motor Oil for Lube

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Dynasty

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If you had to choose one of the following motor oils to lube an already reliable firearms (Marlin Model 60, Remington 870, and Chinese SKS) which would you choose and why?

Choices: synthetic ATF, synthetic 10w-40, conventional 15w-40, conventional 5w-30, conventional gear oil 80w-90

Would like to go shooting tomorrow, but am in a tight spot and do not have firearm specific lube available to me.
 
I read synthetic is better for this kind of thing, but I couldn't explain why. I bought a quart of it for maybe $3 or $4 max a couple of years ago, and a quart ought to last just about any gunowner half a lifetime. It's nice to just use it without worrying about emptying the little dropper bottle that most gun oils come in.
 
I have used synthetic motor oil a little bit and will likely use it more when my stock of secret formula gun oils runs out, and it does ok. I have read that a blend of ATF and synthetic motor oil is a good lube.
 
I just use whatever drips off the dipstick for lube.:evil:

And gasoline makes a fine solvent.:uhoh:
 
I have read from lubricant pros that synthetic ATF or gear oil is a better choice than motor oils. For one-time use, any would work fine. Guns are not crazy-special machines that need exotic oils other machines do not. Many other machines work with much higher temperatures, pressures, and impacts than the average firearm.
 
Straight ATF is a better choice than motor oil. Motor oil will evaporate off faster than ATF or gun lube. Look at the residual gunk on your car's engine from oil leakage. It will work in an emergency but for regular use there are much better products. It does not matter if it's synthetic or not.
 
I use a good racing synthetic 2 stroke oil on a regular basis. An oil designed to withstand pressure and heat doesnt care whether its lubricating a wrist pin bearing or a slide. The lubricant requirements are close in my opinion.
 
I use a good racing synthetic 2 stroke oil on a regular basis. An oil designed to withstand pressure and heat doesnt care whether its lubricating a wrist pin bearing or a slide. The lubricant requirements are close in my opinion.

Agreed – there’s more marketing than science/engineering involved; gun oils/lubes come from the same place automotive oils do. I use ATF – perfect general-purpose lube, it does an excellent job preventing corrosion.
 
I've read a lot of "what's the best lube?" threads, and Mobil 1 synthetic oil seems to be popular. Don't remember what if any viscosity was mentioned.

Read a long article (forgot where) from a custom gunsmith about how lubrication works, what your choices are, etc., and he ended up saying Dexron-style automatic transmission fluid is the best.

FWIW
 
Fully Synthetic Mobile-1 for the win! There grease also.

I believe the new Dexcon/Mexcron? 3 or is it 4 ATF fluid is synthetic.
 
If ATF was a good slick lubricant then how could a car with an automatic transmission move?
 
...there’s more marketing than science/engineering involved; gun oils/lubes come from the same place automotive oils do. I use ATF – perfect general-purpose lube, it does an excellent job preventing corrosion.
jdc1244 is offline Report Post
I've read a lot of "what's the best lube?" threads, and Mobil 1 synthetic oil seems to be popular. Don't remember what if any viscosity was mentioned.
I've read tons of opinions about this oil, or that oil, or how one particular oil is somehow overlooked and/or far superior than everything else out there. Some of it is serious research, some of it just studies done by someone with a serious obsession for one kind of oil over another. From everything I've read, and considering some of the claims made by modern gun oil products like Miltec-1, the only thing I could reasonably conclude is there is no one single consensus opinion. I think there are as many ideas about the best oil as there are gun enthusiasts, maybe more! :neener:

From everything I've read, I believe ATF to be one seriously good oil (far superior or at least the equal of most gun oil products). I also think that Mobil One is a great lube oil for guns too, that is if it's emulsified a bit to make it "wetter" so it penetrates and sticks to the unseen microscopic surface irregularities.

I like both Ed's Red and Hoppes #9 as solvents go - both seem to work well and Hoppes has an alluring smell of banana oil to boot! Both have good lubricating qualities - and used with any gun oil on the market they will do a great job of keeping a gun well oiled, lubed, and rust protected.

There is simply no one "best" oil, and any gun oil out there does its job. Certainly, ATF right from the bottle or Mobile One (if cut a little with something like naphtha or diesel fuel) would last someone 30+ years. I've set aside a container of ATF, and another bottle of Mobil One. If I ever run out of Rem Oil or Hoppes gun oil. I'll start mixing ATF and Mobile One and making my own lube mix - maybe 1/3 ATF to 1/3 Mobile One and 1/3 naphtha - the ATF being it's own excellent oil, and a great carrier for Mobil One oil and its excellent lubricating qualities. Naphtha or other evaporating solvent (like iso-alcohol) further is a good wetting agent for needed penetration - and alcohol is good water-soluble evaporating H2O drier.

I also think Ballistol is great oil too mainly because it mixes (emulsifies) so well with water and would pickup any stray water molecules on a gun's surface - which is a great way to keep rust from happening from the start.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ballistol

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Emulsion
 
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If syn ATF came in different weights/thickness, it might be a choice, but ATFs have lower quantities of anti-wear additives when compared to motor oils.

I currently only use Pennzoil Platinum 15w50 as a gun lube.

Syn motor oil is my first choice since it performs very well in a cars combustion chamber whose conditions are much more brutal than a guns.
 
Mobile1 and other synthetic motor oils have cleaners to deal with carbon deposits,soot,and sludge and neutralizers to deal with the caustic chemicals produced from the combustion that will break down your oil sooner. I know test engine that use Mobile-1 show now signs of engine wear after 250,000 miles. If it protects cylinder walls and pistons rings clashing at 9,000rpm in my car and 16,000rpm in my bike with thousands of pounds of pressure and direct combustion heat, not to mention the crank bearings, then it will work fine on my slide and frame rails simply sliding back and forth.

As mentioned ANY good synthetic oil or grease when cleaned and oiled regularly will work well. I like the fact that 10w30 or heavier oil stays put and doesn't evaporate as quick but don't think any oil is a wonder oil as i will use multiple oils on the same gun like grease on the more camming actions like the hammer and sear, a lighter oil like rem-oil on the firing pin or gas pistons that will literaly evaporate and leave a Teflon coating, and sometimes a mix of syntec oil and grease on a rotating bolt or bolt action, and a more petroleum,wax,or silicon based oil to preserve the outside finish even though a CLP could do it all.

It's more important that you change your recoil springs and buffers after so many rounds so gun doesn't beat itself to death.
 
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I use Mobile 1 synthetic 10w-50. Works fine. Some LE and Govt. agencies use Mobile 1 for AR's, and buy it by the case. One quart will likely last me indefinitly. Doesn't have to be 10w-50.

For more delicate work where I need to drop oil into tight places, I like FP-10 or MilTech.
 
If you're going to use an automotive product to lube a gun, what I've read indicates that ATF is a better choice than motor oil.
 
Many argue the origon of the synthetic or petroleum base products are the same. And in each case that is true. But that doesn't necessarily mean they can be used interchangably.

Automotive refrigerant oil is either petroleum or synthetic base, depending on the refrigerant used and task at hand. However, use it in an engine, and lots of tiny parts are produced.

In a pinch, I'd use Mobil 1 also, but it was formulated for pressure fed systems and has specific pressures and temps at which it works most efficiently. Same as gun oils. I still pay for my three favorite lubricants for different applications on each of the guns I own. Just my way and it works. So why change a winner?
 
However, use it in an engine, and lots of tiny parts are produced.

But have yet to see a rifle or pistol reduced to many small pieces because of the oil or lubricant used, or the lack of lube either.

Would like sometime see just what the lab facilities of the wonderous gun lube companies look like and compare them to the lab facilities of just one of the major oil companies.

Heck I'll bet peanut oil would work wonders in many applications, after all its ALL NATURAL.
 
Big Question: do you want the oil to lubricate, or also protect against corrosion?

This may give all you who want to try or use or discount using Syn. Motor Oil for lubing and protecting guns some answers and something to think about. Has some long reads but also has some answers by the scientific community regarding the use of oil.

Not a bad read, but also a very good reminder why "GlockTalk" can be such a waste of time - so many children shouting at each other rudely, interspersed with really intelligent comments. The "noise" factor is so extremely high! But that conversation is all about lubrication and not corrosion protection. And I think many of us confuse the two issues when talking about what we want as a "gun oil."

That conversation re-iterated much of what is said here - guns are not "special animals" that need crazily specific lubes. However, it in no way addressed the main beef with motor oil - great lube, poor corrosion protection. Also, it was a very one-sided debate between two people with some technical knowledge but not specialists. One of them was a knowledgeable amateur, and the other an non-doctoral organic chemist, and not a petroleum or inorganic chemist. There is a BIG difference - trust me. Furthermore, that particular poster has been a member there only a short while, and his post count put about 20% of his total posts in that one thread. And half of those posts were spent shouting down and being rude to other respected posters. Not a definitive statement, but again not a ringing endorsement of that poster as a fountain of wisdom.

The point those two glossed over, and I hear over and over again, is that the open-air oxidation properties of motor oil is extremely weak, synthetic or "dino." As a lifelong and avid amateur mechanic (my father was a professional machinist and motor mechanic and trained me at home), motor oil was always about the most useless thing to smear on an exposed bare metal surface to give it some corrosion protection. It would be rusted the next time it was breathed on heavily. Any "gear head" (or as they say on Top Gear, "petrol head") knows this.

I am not basing my judgment solely on this, but on the fact professionals say the same thing. When personal experience and professional advice coincide, it's usually worth paying attention to. Now I can understand Glock guys loving motor oil: Guns made out of non-rusting Nylon 66 (another interesting revelation of that thread), tennifer coated, and with very little metal to try to protect. Quality lube is the ticket; corrosion protection is riding the short bus.

On my steel guns, I'll stick to lubricants with just as good lubricating abilities but with more proven anti-corrosion properties. On plastic guns, motor oil sounds fine to me. If I own one handgun, and lube it weekly, then motor oil might work fine. But if I clean and lube one of my guns each week, that means it's a year before I get around to that gun again. So on my non-carry guns or recently shot guns, I need a lubricant I can trust to lube AND provide corrosion protection in the PNW for a year. Motor oil ain't it. It'll do in a pinch. Heck, in a pinch I'd use Crisco. But as a long-term lubricant/protectant, no.

Here's a good, non technical primer on gun lubricants from a highly respected gunsmith, not a petroleum engineer:

http://grantcunningham.com/lubricants101.html
 
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