my first relatively clean P&R smith

[roval]

Here's a set of S&W factory stocks with the speedloader cut. Note: This is a 19-5, no pin, no recessed chambers. You can clearly see the (dummy) case heads in the window between the cylinder and the recoil shield. On a recessed cylinder, there would be a much narrower window, and you'd have a hard time seeing the case heads.

Ironically, I never use a speedloader.

iike those grips on my 19-5. i rest my thumbs( thumbnail-thumbnail ) on top of the cutout.

 

[roval]

i shot it at the range this afternoon at 10 yrds. i love it. the grips felt great with shooting. it shot great except for a minor hiccup.
while checking how the zero was and resting the gun, the first 3 shots went into the same hole within the red bullseye with 38 spcl wadcutters. after the first cylinder rested. i shot off hand DA for 4 more cylinders at the first target. accurate with 38 spcl MBC DEWC, 158 swc xtreme with 6 gr unique. i also shot 1 cylinder of 13.5 gr 2400 with sns pc rnfp. that load was on the stout side for the gun. i couldn't advance the cylinder after the first round. i ejected the spent round and was able to shoot the remaining 5.
i wasn't able to set off some CCI SPP primers but had no problem with Fiocchi SPP. this morning i removed the grips and checked the strain screw. it was torqued ultra tight and slightly below flush. i removed it and saw that the previous owner had ground the tip off. on reinstalling it i screwed it to flush and snug then backed off an 8th of a turn. with the light strikes, i re snugged the strain screw but still about flush and resumed shooting. still had 1 light primer strike with CCI for the remaining session. i may have to screw it in to slightly below flush.
trigger pull was smooth.
first target 30 rds 10 yrds offhand with 38 spcl and 357 mag rds.
second target shooting a little faster with 38 spcls and the 357 mag with 6 gr Unique. should be 3 cylinders.
recessed baby!!!

 

[roval]

double post

 

[Dave DeLaurant]

now i get it.

I stand corrected.

My bad for underestimating the proliferation of S&W model designations -- I have the Standard Catalog of S&W and should know better!

 

[GooseGestapo]

To relieve the light hits on the CCI primers, you can take the anvil out of a spent (fired) large pistol or rifle primer and place the primer under the tip of the strain screw. This will shim it up enough to make it hit harder to pop the primer.

I’ve “corrected” a number of Smiths with cut strain screws this way.
I also always place a small drop of thread locker on the exposed threads to prevent the screw from possibly walking out.
All my PPC revolvers have full length strain screws in order to accommodate “harder” primers if necessary. I also cut the grips to allow adjustment without having to remove the grips.

 

[roval]

To relieve the light hits on the CCI primers, you can take the anvil out of a spent (fired) large pistol or rifle primer and place the primer under the tip of the strain screw. This will shim it up enough to make it hit harder to pop the primer.

I’ve “corrected” a number of Smiths with cut strain screws this way.
I also always place a small drop of thread locker on the exposed threads to prevent the screw from possibly walking out.
All my PPC revolvers have full length strain screws in order to accommodate “harder” primers if necessary. I also cut the grips to allow adjustment without having to remove the grit

thanks i will do that instead. I had bought an old gun that had the cci primer shim. i think it was a k38. i took it out and never had issues afterwards even with CCI. now to pick some up off the garage floor that missed the garbage bag.


would you have any input on what could cause the right side of the top of the hammer to rub against the frame? the hammer has more space on the left side. the side plate is currently pristine. i didn't want to remove the sideplate unless i had a plan of action or knowing what to look for.