MY SINGLE STAGE RELOADING

[PWC]

Maybe this will help someone just starting down the ammo reloading path...

I started with a single stage press 38 yrs ago, and my shooting never required me to upgrade to a progressive. Now, if I were starting out and had to spend money, I would buy a strong 3 or 4 hole turret press.

1 Inspect brass
2 Clean; dry vibe
3 Deprime, look for "ring" and do separation check and check primer pocket "fit" as necessary, place head down, in red loading block
4 Size and measure; use the "gadget" to check shoulder and OAL, place in a different red loading block.
5 Trim, chamfer, debur as necessary; place in a different red block.
6 Reprime case and put in different red block, mouth up.
7 Set up Pacific powder balance, not on bench and calibrate.
8 Consult manual or previous reloading records for correct load.
9 Set up Lyman 55 measure, not on bench, and check average of 10 powder drops on calibrated Lyman Pocket Touch digital scale. Adjust measure as necessary. This is the measure's accuracy capability for that powder at that setting.
11 Bullet seating die on press; adjust for COAL per dummy round or use "poor man's comparator".
12 Powder drop in case, visual check, place in a different red block.
13 Seat bullet, place in black loading block.
14 Transfer loaded rounds to storage or range box.

Reloading is a separate and enjoyable hobby from shooting. For me it bleeds off any stress and aggrivation and at the end of a session, I've become a mellow fellow. I am under no time constraints to reload a quantity for next weeks competition.
I shoot for myself, against myself.

Loading blocks are trays from comm'l .45 ammo boxes reclaimed from the range trash barrel. They are suitable for all the reloadng I do. Only need 2 red and 1 black, depending on how many cases you are reloading. Red is always 'in process', black is 'finished'. I do not start with clean brass and work thru all steps in one session. I do complete all bass for a given step before closing out a "session".

The "gadget" is a tool that a member of TFL graciously made for me that measures the case where the shoulder starts on the case.

Scale and measure are off the bench to avoid press induced vibration from the reloading process, helping to ensure consistent scale reading/powder drops. I don't do powder drops with cases in loading blocks for safety and because of possible interruptions and losing your place. Powder goes in one case at a time; in my left hand, and it doesn't leave my hand until a bullet is seated.

This is MY reloading process reduced to basics. There are sub-steps under each numbered step that were learned thru experience, but for brevity, I've not enumerated here.

 

[Ohen Cepel]

I have known people (me included) to use a 2nd or 3rd single stage press on the same bench for each step also. Works well, cheap, and simple.

 

[Hugger-4641]

I have known people (me included) to use a 2nd or 3rd single stage press on the same bench for each step also. Works well, cheap, and simple.

Yep, if you can pick up an extra press at a yard sale or ebay like I did, then buy extra shell holders, you can have a pretty efficient process. I also have a turret press and many times I'll have my bullet puller installed in one of my single stage presses, crimp die in the other, with sizing, charging, and seating on the turret.

 

[cfullgraf]

As long as the process produces safe ammunition, if the process works for you, it is the best.

There are lots of ways to "skin a cat".

 

[mokin]

Thanks for sharing. I started with a single stage, then added another. Now I have added a progressive to the mix. I still enjoy the single stages though.

 

[eyeshot]

To me a single stage or two with Hornady Lock & Load bushings makes as much sense as a turret press. That's the way I load.

Now . . if you are reloading at the range and shooting them as they roll of the press I guess you got me there.

 

[CryptKeeper5]

For rifle rounds I don't need in large quantity I set up my Dillon 550 and use it basically as a single stage press. When I was shooting competitively I needed the volume but now can slow down and enjoy it more!lol!

 

[nettlle]

Maybe this will help someone just starting down the ammo reloading path...

I started with a single stage press 38 yrs ago, and my shooting never required me to upgrade to a progressive. Now, if I were starting out and had to spend money, I would buy a strong 3 or 4 hole turret press.

1 Inspect brass
2 Clean; dry vibe
3 Deprime, look for "ring" and do separation check and check primer pocket "fit" as necessary, place head down, in red loading block
4 Size and measure; use the "gadget" to check shoulder and OAL, place in a different red loading block.
5 Trim, chamfer, debur as necessary; place in a different red block.
6 Reprime case and put in different red block, mouth up.
7 Set up Pacific powder balance, not on bench and calibrate.
8 Consult manual or previous reloading records for correct load.
9 Set up Lyman 55 measure, not on bench, and check average of 10 powder drops on calibrated Lyman Pocket Touch digital scale. Adjust measure as necessary. This is the measure's accuracy capability for that powder at that setting.
11 Bullet seating die on press; adjust for COAL per dummy round or use "poor man's comparator".
12 Powder drop in case, visual check, place in a different red block.
13 Seat bullet, place in black loading block.
14 Transfer loaded rounds to storage or range box.

Reloading is a separate and enjoyable hobby from shooting. For me it bleeds off any stress and agrivation and at the end of a session, I've become a mellow fellow. I am under no time constraints to reload a quantity for next weeks competition.
I shoot for myself, against myself.

Loading blocks are trays from comm'l .45 ammo boxes reclaimed from the range trash barrel. They are suitable for all the reloadng I do. Only need 2 red and 1 black, depending on how many cases you are reloading. Red is always 'in process', black is 'finished'. I do not start with clean brass and work thru all steps in one session. I do complete all bass for a given step before closing out a "session".

The "gadget" is a tool that a member of TFL graciously made for me that measures the case where the shoulder starts on the case.

Scale and measure are off the bench to avoid press induced vibration from the reloading process, helping to ensure consistent scale reading/powder drops. I don't do powder drops with cases in loading blocks for safety and because of possible interruptions and losing your place. Powder goes in one case at a time; in my left hand, and it doesn't leave my hand until a bullet is seated.

This is MY reloading process reduced to basics. There are sub-steps under each numbered step that were learned thru experience, but for brevity, I've not enumerated here.

You either had a good teacher or spent a good deal of time studying. Either way this is good advice for all. Good reloading is good habits. And never, ever, deviating from those good habits.

 

[bullseye308]

Most of what I load is the same as it has been for years. 38 spl is 2.7 grains of bullseye under a Lee 148 dewc. 357 is 5.0 grains of bullseye under a Lee 158 lswc. 9mm I have 3 main loads, depending on which gun I’m loading for. As I get back from the range all my brass gets universal deprimed, wet tumbled, lubed, resized, trimmed/swaged(if necessary),tumbled again, flared and primed. When it comes time to load I use a Lee Reloader press and a Hornady lock n load electronic powder dispenser. All my dies are set in bushings for the press so no time needed to just drop and twist.

My loading process:
Set the dispenser for my charge and verify a couple.
Install the seating die
Set out an akro bin of bullets and an ammo can of brass
Dispense the first powder charge, pour into a case, grab and set a bullet in the case, then seat it on the press. This leaves almost no way to mess up anything, I just watched the powder dispense, poured it straight into the case, and seated a bullet before setting the case down. I don’t crimp so once the bullet is seated I drop it into another ammo can as a finished round, label the can with the specifics, and either store it or put in the active stack for distribution into mtm 100 round boxes.

 

[FROGO207]

Decide on a path/process and write it down. There is only one process from empty brass to loaded round but along the way there are many ways to get there. Then as you learn more add steps to make things easiet and safer. I always document loads that I tried, even if bad so that in the future I can save myself the time and materials by not repeating the process. Put load data in with your reloads each time over the years and there will not be any mystry rounds that way. I use quart ZipLoc freezer bags they wont split and spill ammo all over. Having the means of taking apart your mistakes is mandatory. A good set of calipers and a set of check weights is well worth the expense.

 

[nofendertom]

I'm with CryptKeeper5---currently load 30-06 on my Dillon 550 set up as a single stage press.

 

[Bazoo]

My process is to use Tupperware for the processes until the charging of powder. The case goes from the tub to the powder measure to the loading block. Once I have 50 charged, I visually check powder levels, and seat bullets. When the loaded cartridge comes off the press I give a final inspection and wipe any lube if there is any, and it either goes into a box or bag.

 

[10wt308]

Pistol
1. Deprime
2. First wash (dawn and lemishine ) done in plastic container let sit and agitate now and again
3. Size
4. Trim (if that type case)
Now is the pin cleaning
5. Prime ( may use hand held, bench mounted have different types) never on a press especially a progressive
6. May use a progressive (Hornady projector) at this point depending on cartridge and load! To expand, then drop powder, inspect powder level set bullet, seat bullet, crimp may be just to remove expansion.
Seat and “crimp” are always two separate steps.

To this point cases have been inspected several times
I agree handloading is a hobby of it’s own. As mentioned by op there are sub steps depending on cartridge being processed.

there some things left out but this is the just of it

rifle varies but some things carry over like never prime on press.

 

[scotty]

PWC, I agree on the stress relief. I follow pretty much the same steps as you. Reloading is not difficult, but requires all of your attention. It makes you forget about anything else that worries you or stresses you out for at least the time that you are reloading or longer.

 

[doubleh]

I am a slo-poke and have no problem with being one. It is a single stage for me, rifle or pistol. I usually keep brass primed and ready and won't go into cleaning sizing, etc. but when loading either type of ammo one thing stays the same. I use two loading blocks. Empties go in the block nearest the powder measure and the charged case is looked into when moving it to the other block.That way I don't have to worry about double charges.

 

[PWC]

never prime on press.

I have read here on THR and other forums about hand held primers blowing up and seating problems with old / new or square / round trays and the fiddling required to make them work. Now, I know this may not too common, and most of you don't have these problems, but I see no reason to add another tool that I may or may not have to worry about.

As I said, I've been doing this for 38 yrs on a Pacific "C" press that is now 83 yrs old. My Pacific press has an add on auto feed capability; all I have to do is put in the correct feed arm; small or large primer. People have said "on press" doesn't give you the "feel" that a hand held does....I don't know about that.

I do know I've never had trouble feeling the primer bottom out. I've never crushed a primer in a prpperly prepared case (my fault), none upside down, and infrequently a start sideways because of me "short stroking" the primer arm. My press doesn't have compound / swing arms, that may be the reason I can "feel" the primer slide home.