My Uberti 1860 with 45 Dragoon Mods

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Big D

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Apr 17, 2005
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Location
Southeast Georgia
Well fellas, finally got my '60 back from the GOON! I am amazed at his work! The action is smoother than glass.....I like my '58 Remmy, but this thing is just awesome. Firing bluing is just beautiful. This is by far the best looking and handling big iron I own. Just installed a set of Treso nipples to try her out either tomorrow or next week. From what I can remember he did the following:

-bolt block
-hammer stop
-arbor set screw
-cap rake (pin to block spent caps from falling into the action)
-hammer stud to remove slop which also gives a consistent sight pic
-isolated the arbor to eliminate vibration
-fixed all screw heads, hardened, polished and fire blued
-reworked bolt head to eliminate damage to the locking notches, as well as lightening the bolt significantly
-.002 barrel/cylinder gap

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You need a warning in the thread title, because that there is quite hardcore gun porn.

Congratulations on a beautiful piece!
 
Well, I'd rather it be too big than not big enough! Haha! In all reality, these were the first pictures taken from my new "smart" phone. I'd say those are pretty darn goods pictures for a phone camera!
 
Excellent job on that 1860 Army. If I'm going to put money into a revolver the 1860 Army is the revolver I would put it into without question.


Good looking rig also Big D, looks like you're ready for anything!!! :)
 
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Well, I was quoted $80 bucks, but I threw in another $20 for return shipping just because I am considerate and I also have an idea of how much work went into the gun. Very little dough, for quite a bit of work. The bolt is entirely hand-sculpted, ensuring an extremely smooth and slick lock up. The trigger pull was also lightened. Thanks crawdad....the 1860 Colt Army has got to be one of my favorite handguns of all time!
 
I have done most of these mods on my open tops and it takes some time.
I think every one should "sign up" before 45 Dragoon starts charging what his time is worth!!
 
SHHHHHH! No really.... it is dirt a$$ cheap...dont know how he does it....but glad he does!
 
If there really was a midnight train to GA, mine would be on it. Since there isn't, mine is headed to GA in the morning!
 
Does the Cap Rake defeat the purpose of the safety Notch? i mean how will the Hammer still catch onto the safety pin on the cylinder?

Thanks
 
i am Curious after the pin was put in did the hammer Notch have to be opened up a bit.?
All i know so far is the depth is about 1/8" and a pin about 1/8" around

And if it did it has to be carefully done or the safety works only if you turn cylinder right with your hand.
i noticed mine slips to the left which could cause a nipple to ignite.
So it does not feel like it is really being held by the pin if i gently turn cylinder counter clock wise.

i Bought a new Hammer just in case as i do not 100% rely on JBWeld. this was i can have one filled in and the other not filled in.

The leather in the groove seems to be good as far as not letting any spent caps fall in. providing it is very thin.

i doubt it it were a little thicker it would prevent the hammer from giving the caps a good wack.
 
I cant say whats wrong with your gun and your description of it "slips to the left". Thats why guns need to be looked at (even new ones ) to detect what needs attention. I'm working on a pair of which one is perf. fine but the other has premature bolt arm wear. Both are new! If you are going to shoot a lot, sending your c&b rev. to the Doc for a check up can save money, range time and keep you shooter lasting much longer than it would have.
The hammer is clearanced slightly but still allows use of the safety pins. With a pin or "rake", there is no need for a leather "sling". And, ideally, correctly tuned and nipples fit, there is no contact of hammer and nipple.
 
No Nothing is wrong with the Gun it was the Hammer,When i had opened up the slot a little too much that happened and it is ok Now as i Bought a New Hammer for $20.00

This way the old one i will keep filled with JBweld and the new one without the weld and maybe a Cap Rake.now the cylinder does not slip at all when it is on the Safety Pin.

Thank You for Your reply
 
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