Need advice resizing .30-30 to .32 win special

wombat13

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I'm trying to load .32 win special for my nephew. He couldn't find .32 win brass anywhere and I've read that necking up .30-30 works well, so he bought a bag of .30-30 Nosler brass. I'm having a problem with necking it up. The brass is "buckling" at the neck just above the shoulder. I used Hornady One-Shot lube. Is that not good enough and I should use a better lube or is it likely some other problem? Here is a series of photos as I turn the case one revolution. Hopefully you can see the buckling.
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Use imperial sizing wax inside and outside of the case neck, and bump it with the press a few times. The lightly buckled cases may still be ok with the right case lube. Automatic transmission fluid also works well. I doubt if one shot would ever be enough lube for a resize like that...
 
Also, what brand of dies are you using? If the expander doesn't have a lot of taper, it could be the problem. Try a universal flare die before an attempted resize...
 
If I were doing that I would use an expander mandrel. What may be happening is your getting a false shoulder based on the base to datum being different. I am also a huge Redding wax guy.
 
If you are using a RCBS die, RCBS makes tapered expanders for necking up. I use them in necking up 30/06 to 338/06, from 308 to 358 Win. and 243 Win. up to 260 Rem.They work well with one pass. I lube the inside of the necks and I do not get any buckled cases. you can use a Q tip to lube inside the neck.
 
Put 3-5 grs. of pistol powder (something like Unique works great) in the case, fill it cornmeal within 1/8" or so of the case mouth, plug it with candle wax, lube the neck and shoulder, then fire it in your nephews rifle. The cases will come out perfect (you might have to square the case mouths a bit) and you just learned how to fire-form brass. I've done this countless times making 257 AI brass from 257 Roberts and 338-06 brass from 30-06.

35W
 
Put 3-5 grs. of pistol powder (something like Unique works great) in the case, fill it cornmeal within 1/8" or so of the case mouth, plug it with candle wax, lube the neck and shoulder, then fire it in your nephews rifle. The cases will come out perfect (you might have to square the case mouths a bit) and you just learned how to fire-form brass. I've done this countless times making 257 AI brass from 257 Roberts and 338-06 brass from 30-06.

35W
This might be a silly question, but do you pour melted candle wax into the mouth or take a bit of solid wax and press it into the mouth?
 
This might be a silly question, but do you pour melted candle wax into the mouth or take a bit of solid wax and press it into the mouth?

Not a silly question at all.
Stab the mouth of the case into the side of a candle and give it a twist, a plug will stay in the mouth of the case. If you use your wife's decorative candles, be sure to take the plugs all from one side of the candle, then orient the candle so she can't see the missing plugs. (Ask me how I know 😁).

35W
 
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When I size 30-30 brass up to 32 SPL I always fireform it. The 30-30 brass neck is especially thin and long. I was getting the same results when I tried using the 32 dies. If you were using 308 or 30-06 brass and necking up it works a lot easier. You can save every peice if you fireform it. Just out a primer and some corn meal or cream of wheat.
Just push the brass into the side of a block of canning wax some and wobble around to snap the wax off inside the neck to seal it..
 
Sinclair International has some tapered expanders.They are easier on the brass than the typical expander balls.

You may want to do it steps if they have the appropriate expanders.
 
I have done it 2 ways. Both work about the same, and both ways are pretty well detailed above. One thing I did slightly different was to make strips of paraffin wax about 1/2” wide and 1/2” thick. Just melt it in a pan and slice it with a knife when it’s just getting good and hard. When you get your strips done you can leave your case vertical after charging and seat the plug with your hand. This keeps filler and powder oriented properly so that they don’t mix and cause a fizzle. You really just need something to be resistant enough to plug the bore for a microsecond and let pressure build up enough to do its job, but the powder has to light properly or you just end up with scorched COW.
 
When I turned some 7-30waters back into 30-30 I did a full dead soft anneal and only 1 out of 10 cracked. Didn't have any shoulders collapse.
I have also turned lots of 30-06 into 8x57, same thing, full dead soft anneal, works about 100% of the time.
All I used for lube was cooking spray.
 
Put 3-5 grs. of pistol powder (something like Unique works great) in the case, fill it cornmeal within 1/8" or so of the case mouth, plug it with candle wax, lube the neck and shoulder, then fire it in your nephews rifle. The cases will come out perfect (you might have to square the case mouths a bit) and you just learned how to fire-form brass. I've done this countless times making 257 AI brass from 257 Roberts and 338-06 brass from 30-06.

35W
This. Anneal and fire form.
 
I used Hornady One-Shot lube. Is that not good enough. . .
No, OneStuck will not do, but you shouldn't need to engage in fireforming or annealing either (although annealing might improve case life).

Use a good paste or wax lube, Imperial is The Standard, and use a qtip to apply to the inside of the neck. A tapered expander will help, but shouldn't be necessary once you lube properly.
 
I'm trying to load .32 win special for my nephew. He couldn't find .32 win brass anywhere and I've read that necking up .30-30 works well, so he bought a bag of .30-30 Nosler brass. I'm having a problem with necking it up. The brass is "buckling" at the neck just above the shoulder. I used Hornady One-Shot lube. Is that not good enough and I should use a better lube or is it likely some other problem? Here is a series of photos as I turn the case one revolution. Hopefully you can see the buckling.
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You're doing it the hard way. Use a couple of grains of tite group, top it off with oatmeal or cream of wheat, put a dab of elmers on top of the cow, let it dry...if you are in a hurry, just shove the mouth in an old candle and push 1/4 inch into it, but I prefer the elmers myself. Just enough to hold the cow in. Some guys will punch a piece of cereal box and press on top of the powder before adding the cow. Not a bad idea if you drive down a long bumpy dirt road on your way to use them. Note: your circumstances may very, but I fireform and just shoot it into a bucket with sand in my shop. Fire it in the rifle. Adjust powder/cow charge as needed. when they are all perfectly formed 32 WS....trim them, neck turn if needed, etc....all the other normal brass work. Full length size them with a standard 32 WS die, shoot, enjoy. Annealing where the new shoulder is can be beneficial for longevity.
 
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