Need more help 40 s&w Lee FCD

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The .423" diameter has me confused a bit. I created a dummy round yesterday and had to bell/expand the case a bit more just to get it to .423", at the end it measure .4235". With the case expanded to .423" and a bullet seated, the round did stick before I was able to push it into the FCD by hand. The sticking was due to the expanded case and not the bullet seated in the case.

I reload on a single stage and now Lee turret and can feel when the FCD is doing something to the case/bullet. Most of the time is when I reload pulled bullets and things are not as round as they should be.

You indicate that the manual indicates that crimping should be done to .423". Which manual is this? I have always worked with a crimping of .421" as my target, but really never measures it since cases and bullets are not the same. What I do now is use my caliper to determine if I have enough crimp. Take the caliper and place the jaws below the case mouth applying pressure and then slide the caliper up toward the case mouth and over it. I normally would do this check before the FCD to get the feeling of how it feels when it can't slide over the mouth, then adjust the the FCD, do the test again until it slide over the mouth. This has worked for me for a while now and I don't have any deeding issues.

What is the diameter of the plated bullet you are trying to load?
Vaalpens
The manuals I'm using Lyman 49th Speer #14 the bullet is a RMR plated rnfp 180 grn
 
RMR 180 grn rnfp plated ... Dia of the bullet is 0.401
For accuracy and consistency in reloading, it's good to check your equipment against known standards.

I verify accuracy of my dial and digital calipers with Vermont Class ZZ +/- pin gages - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...ks-for-digital-calibers.821135/#post-10545265

I like using round pin gages over gage blocks for verifying bullet diameter as I can close my eyes and "feel" the caliper jaws closing on round pin gages. I can measure pin gages and bullets with my eyes closed and get consistent readings.

BTW, .400" pin gage is less than $5 - https://www.zoro.com/vermont-gage-pin-gage-4000-minus-class-zz-blox-911240000/i/G0688600/

And I use Ohaus ASTM Class 6 check weights for my scales - https://www.zoro.com/ohaus-weight-kit-cylndr-500mg-to-1mg-ss-class6-80850110/i/G0843236/
 
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Should I just leave that station empty?
The Lee FCD (for straight wall pistol cartridges) is not a requirement. The seating die will both seat and crimp if adjusted to do so. You may seat and crimp with the seating die and leave an empty station. You may seat with the seating die and crimp with the Lee FCD. It may be preferable to use the crimp station when running a progressive.

I heard over crimping kills your accuracy.
Please define over crimping.
The reason that I say that is that the Lee FCD does two things:
1) The cartridge with a seated bullet travels through a carbide ring before it...
2) Touches the adjustable stem that forces the case mouth inward, toward the bullet (crimp)

It is possible for the carbide ring to squeeze the bullet to a diameter that is smaller than its' original diameter. This will reduce accuracy. If using unjacketed or unplated lead bullets, this is also how to quickly get lead in your barrel.
Many people do not need to use the FCD since they crimp with the seating die and the finished cartridge plunks into the chamber of the firearm.


It is also possible to use a crimping die (whether that is the seating die or the FCD) to push the case mouth so tightly into the bullet that it deforms the bullet. Many places that sell pulled bullets will have some deformed bullets such as:

https://www.rmrbullets.com/shop/bul...-plated-round-nose-flat-point-bullets-pulled/

There are some extreme cases where an overzealous person puts enough pressure on the crimp that the mouth of the case cuts through the thin plating of a bullet.

But, you do have to test out loads to know how much crimp you need. Armchair quarterbacking on a forum only goes so far.
 
For accuracy and consistency in reloading, it's good to check your equipment against known standards.

I verify accuracy of my dial and digital calipers with Vermont Class ZZ +/- pin gages - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...ks-for-digital-calibers.821135/#post-10545265

I like using round pin gages over standard blocks for verifying bullet diameter as I can close my eyes and "feel" the caliper jaws closing on round pin gages. I can measure pin gages and bullets with my eyes closed and get consistent readings.

BTW, .400" pin gage is less than $5 - https://www.zoro.com/vermont-gage-pin-gage-4000-minus-class-zz-blox-911240000/i/G0688600/

And I use Ohaus ASTM Class 6 check weights for my scales - https://www.zoro.com/ohaus-weight-kit-cylndr-500mg-to-1mg-ss-class6-80850110/i/G0843236/
For accuracy and consistency in reloading, it's good to check your equipment against known standards.

I verify accuracy of my dial and digital calipers with Vermont Class ZZ +/- pin gages - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...ks-for-digital-calibers.821135/#post-10545265

I like using round pin gages over standard blocks for verifying bullet diameter as I can close my eyes and "feel" the caliper jaws closing on round pin gages. I can measure pin gages and bullets with my eyes closed and get consistent readings.

BTW, .400" pin gage is less than $5 - https://www.zoro.com/vermont-gage-pin-gage-4000-minus-class-zz-blox-911240000/i/G0688600/

And I use Ohaus ASTM Class 6 check weights for my scales - https://www.zoro.com/ohaus-weight-kit-cylndr-500mg-to-1mg-ss-class6-80850110/i/G0843236/
Thank you bds I'm definitely going to order a pin gage.
 
The Lee FCD (for straight wall pistol cartridges) is not a requirement. The seating die will both seat and crimp if adjusted to do so. You may seat and crimp with the seating die and leave an empty station. You may seat with the seating die and crimp with the Lee FCD. It may be preferable to use the crimp station when running a progressive.


Please define over crimping.
The reason that I say that is that the Lee FCD does two things:
1) The cartridge with a seated bullet travels through a carbide ring before it...
2) Touches the adjustable stem that forces the case mouth inward, toward the bullet (crimp)

It is possible for the carbide ring to squeeze the bullet to a diameter that is smaller than its' original diameter. This will reduce accuracy. If using unjacketed or unplated lead bullets, this is also how to quickly get lead in your barrel.
Many people do not need to use the FCD since they crimp with the seating die and the finished cartridge plunks into the chamber of the firearm.


It is also possible to use a crimping die (whether that is the seating die or the FCD) to push the case mouth so tightly into the bullet that it deforms the bullet. Many places that sell pulled bullets will have some deformed bullets such as:

https://www.rmrbullets.com/shop/bul...-plated-round-nose-flat-point-bullets-pulled/

There are some extreme cases where an overzealous person puts enough pressure on the crimp that the mouth of the case cuts through the thin plating of a bullet.

But, you do have to test out loads to know how much crimp you need. Armchair quarterbacking on a forum only goes so far.
Cougar1717
I have my bullet seating die set to crimp so I'm doing all in one. They would pass the plunk & spin in the barrel. I just had the FCD in for insurance for that occasional round that wouldn't chamber. So now I'm either going to just seat and use the FCD to crimp not sure yet. What is your thoughts?
 
I just had the FCD in for insurance for that occasional round that wouldn't chamber
Some folks who play the pistol games use it as a "safe guard" against fat rounds jamming things up and costing them points/time. I would recommend getting everything set up without it so you know it isn't masking poor set up, then when things are running smoothly add it in for the insurance. If everything is good, you will not feel the carbide ring of the FCD doing much, and seldom when it does.
 
Hey guys I really appreciate all the help here. I started loading those 40's and checked my crimp and after running it through the lee fcd it comes out to be .421 instead of .423. Before I run it through the fcd it's.423. I'm using RMR 180 grn rnfp plated and have the Lee 4 die set. Funny thing the round passes plunk and spins in barrel & gauge and I'm using a Dillion 550. Should I just leave that station empty? I heard over crimping kills your accuracy. Again guys thank you
PS I'm just learning the pc & tablet lol I can browse but typing ...lol
I don't know how to use hardly anything on this site yet my kids said they will help.
 
I personally use the Lee factory crimp dies for all my 9mm, 40 S&W, and 45acp rounds. I had the same questions and concerns as you until I talked to the owner of BadMan bullets, IMO, the best cast and poly coated bullets there are. Since I only shoot cast and poly coated bullets in all 3 calibers, all are .001 oversize as compared to jacketed bullets, leaving a slight case "bulge". In tight chambers it often hinders feeding or prevents the proper "plunk". I asked Pat, the owner of BadMan about the Lee FCD's and he personally recommended them and said he doesn't reload any cast or coated bullets without them. That was good enough for me. Now standard dia. jacketed bullets, a light TAPER crimp is all that's needed. The Lee FCD's get rid of the bullet bulge and put a light TAPER crimp on the bullet too, depending on how you adjust the die.
 
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Some folks who play the pistol games use it as a "safe guard" against fat rounds jamming things up and costing them points/time.

^^^This^^^

When I load straight walled pistol cases, For the most part, I seat and crimp in station 4. For no other reason then that is the way I learned to set up the die. The FCD die in station 5 does nothing other than provide an insurance policy. I have a couple of guns with tight chambers. a fat round causes problems/loses time.
 
That is one thing I don't understand, in a game where accuracy takes second stage to reliability why the keep making guns with tight chambers and short throats. They are not shooting Bullseye, they just need reasonable accuracy.

Same goes for a defensive gun, where people shooting IDPA also buy the same weapons for carry sometimes. For that reliability has to be number one. For unlimited and their race guns I get it, they aren't carrying those, but the makers are doing this with stock guns designed for carry which is what IDPA is supposed to mimic.

Dependable guns can be very accurate, I don't need a world class accurate gun that may choke if a round isn't perfect.
 
If you want a 0.423 dimension/measurement and you get it before using the FCD, why use it?
bihj I have asked myself the same question. The answer is insurance that it will chamber So is the Dia 0.4.23 that critical? But the thing is I check all my round before I box them. Like Walkalong says some people like to not have check their rounds.
 
So they do not have to measure or gauge every single round, although some prefer to gauge and/or measure.
I think might be doing over kill. I'm using the FCD and checking the rounds. I'm going take the FCD out of the 4th hole and only use it on the round that don't pass.
 
Dependable guns can be very accurate, I don't need a world class accurate gun that may choke if a round isn't perfect.

This is true and I agree, although I do own one of those guns that chokes. A Tanfoglio Witness 45acp that was purchased used. It will fire any factory ammunition I put in it. Reloads are a struggle. I can take my reloaded 45acp rounds that were built using Lee 3-die set and shoot them all day long in my Springfield XD Mod2 w/o a single failure of any type. Then take this same ammunition and feed it into the Witness and I get all sorts of chambering problems and failure to go into battery. But if I run these thru the FCD all the feed and chambering problems disappear.. Most of the time I feel no resistance while running these into this die. Exactly what this die is doing to these rounds I haven't been able to detect because I cannot find a measurable change from before to after.

This gun fires just fine with factory and someone that only shoots factory would never know there is an issue so I am not going to send this gun out to alter the barrel when I can just add a die to the mix and it then shoots lights out.
 
Then take this same ammunition and feed it into the Witness and I get all sorts of chambering problems and failure to go into battery. But if I run these thru the FCD all the feed and chambering problems disappear..
Then you have an issue the FCD is ironing out, but also masking. Better to solve the issue.
 
A "solution"? Yes, it's a solution. My point was I believe it is better to solve the issue prior to getting to the FCD which then wouldn't have to squeeze them into submission, instead only having to correct the occasional fat bullet or crooked round etc.

But lots of people do it like you are doing, plenty without realizing it, and are getting satisfactory results, and are happy with it.
 
Then you have an issue the FCD is ironing out, but also masking. Better to solve the issue.

only applies to plated and jacketed bullets:

My wife has a SIG 380 and I have a Sig 1911. Both have tight chambers for who knows what reason. There is nothing wrong with my reloads, no crooked bullets, no bulged cases, but occasionally you do get a slightly fat round for whatever reason (thick walled case, slightly oversized bullet) that will choke these guns. That 380 is so small, it will choke up if anything is awry.

I bought the progressive so I didn't have to do each step individually so I sure as heck am not going to start checking each finished round and plunking it in the barrel. The FCD is great insurance.
 
A "solution"? Yes, it's a solution. My point was I believe it is better to solve the issue prior to getting to the FCD which then wouldn't have to squeeze them into submission, instead only having to correct the occasional fat bullet or crooked round etc..

We have had this discussion before so I will not rehash it though you are implying that there is a problem with this ammunition and it is not with the gun. Sorry but I whole heartedly disagree. I say this because I have fired these rounds just as they are in a total of 5 different guns w/o incident and as I have stated previously the only reason I purchased and use this die is because of this one gun. I have also stated here and previously that I am not going to send out and alter this gun just because it does not like reloaded ammunition.

But once again you seem to be stuck on the idea that there is a defect in the ammunition. Now let me ask this, If this were factory ammunition that I was having a problem with would it be faulty too or would it just be a finicky gun?

I suppose I could go through the trouble of sorting thru a couple dozen seating/crimp dies until I find one that will make perfect ammunition every time but I don't have the time nor money to do that.
 
I suppose I should clarify my comment to be clearer. These rounds were fired in the different guns with out being run thru the Lee FCD and the results were that all fired normally.
 
My wife has a SIG 380 and I have a Sig 1911. Both have tight chambers for who knows what reason. There is nothing wrong with my reloads, no crooked bullets, no bulged cases, but occasionally you do get a slightly fat round for whatever reason (thick walled case, slightly oversized bullet) that will choke these guns.
Might simply be cases that won't fit a case gauge any more and shouldn't be used to load. At least that is what I do with 9MM since I had an EMP with a SAMMI minimum chamber and some 9MM cases were too fat at the case head where a normal sizer could size them.

But your house your rules, load however you wish. :)

Edit to add links:

https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/springfield-armory-emp.500607/page-2#post-6264758

https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...tire-length-of-the-case.823777/#post-10595721

https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/chamber-checking-9mm.833963/page-2#post-10787182

With pics:

https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...d-cases-would-not-plonk.844753/#post-10991665
 
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That is one thing I don't understand, in a game where accuracy takes second stage to reliability why the keep making guns with tight chambers and short throats. They are not shooting Bullseye, they just need reasonable accuracy.

Because when you swung-and-missed 3 times on that mini-popper, it just has to be a mechanical accuracy issue!
 
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