New 10/22 Sporter

Perfect! I really think the LVT barrel profile with the sporter stock is the perfect sporting configuration. The standard barrels are too light but Goldilocks would love the LVT. ;)

I finally took an updated pic of mine. The Clark mid-weight barrel is pretty much identical to the LVT, about .730" at the muzzle. This one is a 21.5".

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Veeeeerry nice 10/22! :thumbup:

Man, seeing your rifle has me wanting to put one together more today than yesterday. :D

Stay safe.
 
I got her out to the range yesterday for a little zeroing. Unfortunately, my dumb behind didn't think to grab SV ammo, so I had bulk pack Winchester HV and 1 mag of subsonic to work with. I zeroed it as well as I could, the Winchester just wasn't very consistent. I'll have to go back when I have some decent ammo on hand and save the Winchester for my plinker. I will say that the sporter does feel a bit more "tightly sprung" than my plinker. Whether that's a function of being a sporter, or just because the plinker has untold rounds through it, I don't know. I've fed a few hundred rounds of this particular box of bulk through other Ruger .22s without issue, but I had about 10 miscellaneous failures with the Sporter. Maybe needs break-in, maybe a tighter chamber, maybe an ammo issue. Not sure yet.
 
Were the failures failures to feed, failure to extract, failure to fire, or something else? My usual failure
with Winchester bulk is misfires.
 
Please see:
-- and then my own at 50 yds --
 
Failure to feed and some misfires sounds like it wants more range time. Maybe a box of Remington Vipers and a good chamber scrub? (I usually use them for my first box through a semiauto 22 to loosen things up a bit, but that's just me.)
 
I have been itching to build a 10/22 bench gun to go with my RAR Target. Well, it was Gun Show Day & I scored a deal on a 10/22 Sporter. The spec sheet is here: https://ruger.com/products/1022Sporter/specSheets/31166.html

I have an extra Nikon Rimfire scope at home, so all I really need are rings. With that said, I guess it’s time for me to start looking into triggers & stocks.
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A true classic, that everyone should have at least one. Best wishes with the build.
 
failure to feed....
Some failures to feed, some failures to fire.
Spats . . as first thought. . . back off the action screw to where you can re-center the action
in the stock slot (neither up against wood fore/aft) and retighten only to 15-18 in-lbs

(i.e., check to see it Alley Oop at the factory didn't over-torque/stress/warp that aluminum)
 
I bought one several years ago . I put a Weaver 3-9x32 rimfire scope on it with Talley low rings and a Volquartsen trigger kit in it . I like it and it shoots pretty accurately . It is not as accurate as my model 60 , but it shoots a wider range of ammunition more accurately . Or should I say I don’t shoot it as accurately as my model 60 , but it isn’t far behind using the ammo that they both like and it’s a lot better looking .
 
Please see:
-- and then my own at 50 yds --
I'm going to either copy or bookmark that for future reference. That looks like stuff maybe even I could do.
Failure to feed and some misfires sounds like it wants more range time. Maybe a box of Remington Vipers and a good chamber scrub? (I usually use them for my first box through a semiauto 22 to loosen things up a bit, but that's just me.)
This is kind of what I think, too. (Go ahead, give me another excuse to go back to the range...)
failure to feed....

Spats . . as first thought. . . back off the action screw to where you can re-center the action
in the stock slot (neither up against wood fore/aft) and retighten only to 15-18 in-lbs

(i.e., check to see it Alley Oop at the factory didn't over-torque/stress/warp that aluminum)
Yeah, this is probably my next step after a few hundred rounds to loosen things up a bit.

One other thing I noticed is that I kept scraping my knuckle on the scope adjustment knob when I'd pull on the bolt handle. I might need to switch to some medium-height scope rings.

Thank you all.
 
Failure to feed and some misfires sounds like it wants more range time. Maybe a box of Remington Vipers and a good chamber scrub? (I usually use them for my first box through a semiauto 22 to loosen things up a bit, but that's just me.)
I have some Vipers around here somewhere, but I could not find them. I was able to lay hands on some Federal Game Kings (40 gr., 1240 fps), so I went back to the range & put about 150 of those through it. Honestly, once I re-zeroed for them, accuracy was not bad, albeit only at 25 yards.

Once I had run through those, I loaded up CCI SV and Aguila SV. It’s a close call, but once again, the CCI seemed to edge out the Aguila. (I forgot to take pics of the targets, though.).

Right as I got to my last couple of mags of decent ammo, the receiver came loose in the stock! Not much, just a fraction of an inch of wiggle. So my gunsmith buddy suggested that maybe the action screw had backed out. Well, this seemed like to a perfect time to adjust that screw, and it is now set to 15 inch lbs. No more wiggle & we’ll see how she shoots next time.
 
Thanks for the update. There is nothing magic about the Vipers, except that I have had fewer feed issues in the Mark I - IV Rugers with the truncated cone than with round noses. But they always seemed to be loaded a bit hotter than the bulk box. I suspect the same with the Federal (but I have felt that the Federals are also loaded a bit hotter). Next you need to feed it some match ammo...

(Note: How could I tell it felt hotter? My warm-up for deer season and rattlesnake gun is a S&W 317 Airlite [titanium frame and stainless steel cylinder] with a 3 inch barrel that weighs about 10 oz. I use Vipers in it as a load of choice and it kicks a bit more than with bulk box 22 HV. My warm up is shooting empty diet coke cans at 20 yards. Once I start hitting consistently, then I feel like I am ready to hunt.)
 
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I've fed a few hundred rounds of this particular box of bulk through other Ruger .22s without issue, but I had about 10 miscellaneous failures with the Sporter.
During 4000 round break-in of 10/22 shooting 25+ different brands/weights of ammunition, I experienced 100% reliability of feeding and ignition (Winchester M22 was only one that produced duds) until fouling build up in the chamber, bolt and magazine - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/real-world-accurizing-22lr-on-the-cheap.898035/

After cleaning chamber/bolt/magazine, 10/22 was back to 100% feeding and ignition. (After 10,000+ rounds through 10/22 and T/CR22, I bought replacement Ruger 10 round rotary magazines for continued 100% reliable feeding as cleaning the magazine no longer ensured 100% reliable feeding)

And if you want smaller groups, consider trigger mod/enhancement. Factory 7.5 lb trigger out of the box definitely added to trigger input moving the muzzle to increase group size. After 4000 round break-in, trigger pull went down to 4.5 lbs and slightly reduced group size. After $43 Volquartsen Target Hammer kit upgrade, trigger pull went down to 2.75 lbs initially then 2.5 lbs to significantly reduce group size (1/2" for CCI SV and 3/4" for Aguila SV/HV). FYI, 5% off with THRFORUM discount code on $50+ orders - https://www.opticsplanet.com/volquartsen-target-hammer-for-ruger-10-22-and-10-22-magnum.html

And Patriot Precision trigger spring kit lowered trigger pull down to just over 2 lbs - https://www.ebay.com/itm/125258485144

BTW, factory 10/22 bolt without pinned firing pin and not being square/improper headspace with barrel can add to flyers, especially first shot flyer from front of firing pin rising. So if you are experiencing flyers, have CPC rework the bolt face to headspace/square with barrel and to pin the firing pin. This is what CPC does for $50 (Or you can go with $124 Power Custom Match bolt):
  • Bolt is disassembled and ultrasonically cleaned.
  • Headspace is surface ground and squared to a .0425 rim depth, the same as a bolt action rifle to tweak in a little accuracy.
  • A hole is "E.D.M.'ed", a hardened ground solid dowel pin is pressed in over the top of the front of the firing pin ... This new dowel pin keeps the front of firing pin from raising up and causing flyers and gives more consistent firing pin strikes.
  • Firing pin is reworked and surface ground flat.
  • Rear / bottom of bolt body is full radiused for smoother/better bolt function with standard and high velocity ammo's.
  • Bolt rework is $43 plus $7 flat rate Priority Mail ... Add $10 for CPC EDM tool steel extractor ... turnaround is approximately 2 1/2 weeks or less after it arrives.
 
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I'm going to either copy or bookmark that for future reference. That looks like stuff maybe even I could do.
While I agree with what @MEHavey listed, key objective is to secure the receiver in stock so when trigger is pulled, receiver does not experience play to move the muzzle.

Of course, sages of THR and RFC will recommend "proper" bedding of receiver and barrel using aluminum tape or Bondo to eliminate play of receiver with stock.

I considered using inner tube but ended up using hard plastic shim at V-block to "free float" the factory 18.5" taper barrel. And since rear of receiver was snug with factory modular composite stock, I just used a strip of electrical tape to eliminate play of rear of receiver with stock. (FYI, Magpul MOE X-22 stock has tighter fit at rear of receiver to not require bedding at that point and is designed to free float both factory tapered and bull barrels)
 
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