New black powder hunter here

[TexasPatriot.308]

Hi guys, I am an 69 year old very experienced hunter but on a whim just bought an entry level Traditions Buckstalker XT to start with, it is a combo package with a cheap scope that needs to go as have several in my safe to choose from (which is another question). any of you have experience with this rifle? I got a box of Hornady 250 grain SST sabots and some Hogdon powder pellets, wainting on some 209 primers. any advice on ammo for hogs and deer or will this setup work for now? Also what kind of scope, low or high power as I am not familiar with recoil. Here in Texas we have an extra two weeks for black powder only after regular season. Like I said I am a newbie at this, just another challenge along with pistol hunting.

 

[Pat Riot]

I wish you luck. I too am new to BP rifles and have a little experience with BP cowboy guns. I am assembling a Traditions Kentucky rifle. If things work out I will go hunting with it in a couple weeks.

 

[woodnbow]

Hi guys, I am an 69 year old very experienced hunter but on a whim just bought an entry level Traditions Buckstalker XT to start with, it is a combo package with a cheap scope that needs to go as have several in my safe to choose from (which is another question). any of you have experience with this rifle? I got a box of Hornady 250 grain SST sabots and some Hogdon powder pellets, wainting on some 209 primers. any advice on ammo for hogs and deer or will this setup work for now? Also what kind of scope, low or high power as I am not familiar with recoil. Here in Texas we have an extra two weeks for black powder only after regular season. Like I said I am a newbie at this, just another challenge along with pistol hunting.

I imagine the bullets and sabot combo will work for now. I’d find a source for loose powder, Blackpowder, Triple 7, or Pyrodex. Yo’ll need a volumetric powder measure and then you can work on load development. The pellets do work but if your rifle prefers 85 grains of powder over a hundred you can use the loose powder to build the load. I suspect the scope will work for a while unless you want to use one you already own. Anything you believe can hold up to high powered rifle use will be fine.

 

[hawg]

+1 to what woodnbow said about loose powder. I would start with 90 grain charges and go up from there. Hogdons test barrel they used 150 grains but your best load may be less.

 

[J-Bar]

Your blackpowder rifle is not a long range sniper rifle. Shoot it enough to gain confidence out to 100 yards, with groups no bigger than 3". Maximum powder charges are not necessary. Find your rifle's sweet spot with the projectile of your choice. Mine likes a .54 patched round ball over 85 grains of loose 2F powder. It will still go through a deer from any angle.

Limit your range and know where the projectile will hit. You don't want to be thinking about ball drop charts when you see game. The joy of deer hunting with a muzzleloader is getting close.

 

[nettlle]

We always used black powder because it ignites better in damp and rainy weather. I have a 3X9 Leupold Compact on my muzzle loader.

 

[.38 Special]

I will echo everything that has been said so far, with emphasis on the range limitation: these things are sold as 200 or even 300 yard rifles, and they really are not. 100 yards is a fine limit - which also tells you most of what you need to know about your scope choice.

 

[nettlle]

I agree on the 100 yard limit. And it takes a good muzzle loader to do this. Not a fan of sabots but rather solid soft lead bullets. Heavier the better. with the heavy bullets and both shoulders broken a deer will drop in its tracks.

 

[Jackrabbit1957]

Same thing here, ditch the pellets, stick to loose powder and do the load development. Rifling twist is gonna help determine what type of bullet the gun likes. Get a variety of bullet weights and figure on a few days at the range. With a 50 cal I start at 60 grns of powder and work up from there.

 

[Show Me]

I'm always on the lookout for nonsense advice. You have not got any so far. I was given a TC hawken. Unwanted kit rifle. Molded my own REAL bullets. Good to 75 yards. Extends my season into the new year.

 

[noelf2]

Lots of good advice. I use the same Hornady bullet/sabot that you have. 100gr loose Triple 7 is perfect for good expansion out to 100 yds with that bullet. I took a buck a couple weeks ago at 90 yards, further than my usual shots here in the blue ridge mountains. Pass through shot went through ribs and a shoulder, and the wound channel was still impressive. I used to use two Triple 7 pellets, but they degrade pretty quick after the package is opened, so I don't mess with them anymore. Accuracy with loose powder is way more consistent for me.

 

[Pat Riot]

Sorry but I have to ask. This is truly a beginner’s question.
How do you determine your powder is loose?
Do you ram until the ball stops without further tamping?

 

[Rustmangler]

Powder ( loose)instead of pellets that are pressed.

 

[hawg]

Sorry but I have to ask. This is truly a beginner’s question.
How do you determine your powder is loose?
Do you ram until the ball stops without further tamping?

Loose powder.

 

[.38 Special]

Sorry but I have to ask. This is truly a beginner’s question.
How do you determine your powder is loose?
Do you ram until the ball stops without further tamping?

That  is a beginner question!

As others have noted, "loose" powder is in, well, powder form, as opposed to pelletized powder which is compressed into 50 grain cylinders. Pellets are advertised as easier and quicker, but do limit load development, as you only have the 50 grain increment to work with. Loose powder is being recommended here as it allows fine-tuning, as a rifleman might do while handloading for his centerfire. (And because we're a bunch of curmudgeons around here...)

Under any circumstance, the ball/bullet is rammed firmly down atop the charge, as any air space between the two can cause a ring in the bore.

 

[red rick]

You are going to get a crud ring using T7 pellets or loose powder after each shot and you will probably have to wet swab the barrel between shots to load it easily all the way to the powder . I would use T7 primers if I were going to shoot T7 pellets or T7 powder . A lot of people like Blackhorn 209 powder . It doesn’t leave a crud ring like T7 and you can shoot probably 10 or more shots without swabbing . It is hard to find now and has gotten very expensive . The knock on it and I have this problem using it in my muzzleloader , is it can cause hang fires . You want to use a 209 magnum primer with it and I did . Ive never had one with T7 . I am not sure about Pyrodex , I’ve never used it . I would mark my ramrod when I determine my best load and use that mark as a reference for if my sabot is seated all the way . IMO you don’t need more than a 2x7 power scope .

 

[hawg]

Hopefully your experience with this rifle will be good and you find yourself using it in regular gun season and eventually graduating to traditional muzzleloaders.

 

[Pat Riot]

Powder ( loose)instead of pellets that are pressed.

Loose powder.

View attachment 1181555

That  is a beginner question!

As others have noted, "loose" powder is in, well, powder form, as opposed to pelletized powder which is compressed into 50 grain cylinders. Pellets are advertised as easier and quicker, but do limit load development, as you only have the 50 grain increment to work with. Loose powder is being recommended here as it allows fine-tuning, as a rifleman might do while handloading for his centerfire. (And because we're a bunch of curmudgeons around here...)

Under any circumstance, the ball/bullet is rammed firmly down atop the charge, as any air space between the two can cause a ring in the bore.

Thanks Gents. I know enough about BP to pack it. That’s why I was confused. I thought perhaps there was some new trend defying hundreds of years of use…

Actually, I now feel like a goof for not realizing what was meant.

Sorry for the diversion @TexasPatriot.308

 

[woodnbow]

Well, you’re able to laugh at yourself so that’s a good start. If you weren’t, the fellas here would help you out with that too!

 

[noelf2]

After you figure out your load for accuracy, make a mark on your ram rod that shows the depth it should reach when loaded.

When loading, it's best to push the ball/bullet with one steady motion until it stops. You don't have to do all that traditional whomping and bouncing of the ram rod in the barrel. The mark will let you know you don't have an air gap, and your shots will be more consistent.

 

[woodnbow]

After you figure out your load for accuracy, make a mark on your ram rod that shows the depth it should reach when loaded.

When loading, it's best to push the ball/bullet with one steady motion until it stops. You don't have to do all that traditional whomping and bouncing of the ram rod in the barrel. The mark will let you know you don't have an air gap, and your shots will be more consistent.

I’ve watched a few people who should know better doing that whanging business… I doubt it does much harm. (Other than looking kinda dumb.) But a steady firm push and when the bullet seats I try to apply the same pressure every time. That’s the secret sauce.

 

[Jackrabbit1957]

Seen some very experienced shooters beat a ball half to death as well. I think it deforms the upper part of the ball. Of course the ones doing it were only shooting 25 to 30 yards. Much further then that I doubt they were terribly accurate.

 

[Savage30L]

As others have said, there is good advice on this thread. I have used black powder since I was a child, and Pyrodex for about 30 years now. Both work just fine and the deer can't tell the difference. One thing I will add: KEEP YOUR MUZZLE LOADER CLEAN. Every time you shoot it--even if you only discharge one round--scrub that gun when you get home. Both black powder and Pyrodex are corrosive.

Warm water and a few drops of dishwashing liquid make a good cleaner (use the unscented, hypoallergenic stuff). I haven't used your particular model of gun, but I suspect you'll be able to remove the barrel and breech plug for cleaning. You can put the soapy water in a bucket, insert the breech end of your barrel (plug removed), put a wetted patch on the jag on the end of your ramrod, insert it into the muzzle, and work it down and up like a bicycle pump. This will suck water up into the barrel, and a few passes will have it spic & span. Work a dry patch or two through once the rifling appears clean and shiny to your eye.

Make sure your breech plug and nipple are clean too. I use old toothbrushes, or a small brass-bristle brush to scrub both ends of the breech plug. Use a nipple pick (which you'll need to acquire if you haven't already) to insure that the nipple (or flash-hole, if your gun uses the 209 primers) isn't obstructed with fouling. Allow the barrel and breech plug to dry, then put a little bore butter, or other suitable lube, on the threads of your breech plug before screwing it back in. Reassemble the rifle and you are ready for storage.

 

[Hookeye]

Gotta fetch my rig outta the truck and pull the ball.
Load fresh next Saturday.
Sidehammers do suck in that regard- cleaning.

 

[hawg]

Seen some very experienced shooters beat a ball half to death as well. I think it deforms the upper part of the ball. Of course the ones doing it were only shooting 25 to 30 yards. Much further then that I doubt they were terribly accurate.

My hunting loads are tight. It's takes a little whomping to get them started but they are hella accurate. It doesn't matter too much what the nose looks like as long as the base isn't deformed.