New Classic Smith & Wesson Model 19

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My model 629 (pinned and recessed) no dash that came from the factory with significant end shake, in fact so bad that the cylinder could move back and forth enough to touch the forcing cone end of the barrel. Af few years ago I purchased a 4" highway patrolman that appeared to be unfired on our second outing to the range my son noticed that the cylinder bolt was not popping up to lock the cylinder in place. When we got home I took the gun apart and discovered that the cylinder bolt had burrs on the edges that were preventing it from popping out of the frame window. I filed a small bevel on each edge and the gun has worked perfectly since. Are you claiming that every revolver made by S&W was perfect up until year XXXX? They made perfect revolvers and Lemons from the very first gun they produced like any other manufacturer of mass produced products.
 
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https://www.chuckhawks.com/smith-wesson_dark.htm

Example: I once inspected a shipment of Smith & Wesson .22 Masterpiece target revolvers sent to the sporting goods department of a large mass merchandiser. Those half dozen revolvers were so poorly made that the gap between cylinder face and forcing cone varied widely as the cylinder was turned. At one position or another the face of the cylinder would actually drag against the forcing cone. One or two of those revolvers were so far out of spec that the cylinder could not be rotated all the way around. One such gun I could understand somehow slipping by quality control, but a whole shipment so poorly made that even a cursory inspection would have revealed the problem? Obviously there was no quality control inspection before those new revolvers were shipped.
 
Pardon my ignorance if this has already been asked somewhere, or if it is a stupid question, but... Will the barrels of the new Model 19 fit on the older models? It would be great if an older gun with a cracked forcing cone could be repaired with new parts.
 
Pardon my ignorance if this has already been asked somewhere, or if it is a stupid question, but... Will the barrels of the new Model 19 fit on the older models? It would be great if an older gun with a cracked forcing cone could be repaired with new parts.

No they will not. The old 19's used a one piece barrel, the new ones, a two piece. (Barrel insert and cover sleeve. Think of the Dan Wesson revolver, although it's not the same system. Same idea though.
 
I didn’t see that anyone asked but, recently, out of curiosity I sent S&W an email about the new 19 and asked specifically about harm to the gun, cracked forcing cones and stretched frames, when fed a steady diet of .357 Magnum ammo. Their response was there should be no issues whatsoever.

I know lots of folks do not like the “new” Smith & Wesson revolvers because of the lock, the MIM parts and other changes.
I have older models and I have 2 newer models (60 Pro and 327NG) and they have been great. I did have a minor mechanical issue with the 60 Pro that S&W took care of, but other than that these 2 revolvers have been wonderful. The issue was the threads on the threads on the extractor rod just we’re not quite far enough up on the shaft of the rod. They fixed it. I am happy with it.

Have fun with your new model 19.
 
The Dark Side of Smith & Wesson :

S&W is a huge print advertiser and that has made them a "holy cow," insulated by the press from the consequences of their actions.


S&W has gotten a pass from the big outdoor media since the 1950's. The legendary unreliability of Smith & Wesson's double-action auto pistols was widely known within the industry, but seldom mentioned in print by the outdoor press. (American Handgunner being the sole exception that comes to mind.) A good example of the "bye" that S&W has always gotten from the outdoor media is the fact that most shooters don't even know about the short cuts, rip-offs and problems cited in this article.

Ever since the Ladies Home Journal of the 1880's, print periodicals made their profit through the advertisements placed in the magazines. Over 60% of the printed material is advertising, that is who is actually paying the bills, and once you figure that out, their behaviors become predictable. The whole industry is geared to educating you on what to buy, not about what not to buy. The internet has been a great source of information as the old print media gatekeepers cannot control the information flow, though, they are still hugely influential.

Even though gun writers were not warning about shoddy workmanship about Smith and Wesson, or any other manufacturer, I like my K frame S&W's. My 66-2 is a great pistol:

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This K frame is the one pistol I have shot more rounds downrange than any else:

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and I recently purchased a vintage 90's Georgia Dept of Corrections, to have a stainless version:

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Some of you might even remember it from your last Georgia staycation. :D

What I have learned to do, on all revolvers, is check the timing. Pull the hammer back slowly and determine if the cylinder stop falls into place when it should fall into place.
I also grab the cylinder star and try to find the tightest. I will eyeball the cylinder gap, and if I have a cleaning rod, I will push a patch down the barrel. This document has some pointers about checking out an S&W: Inspection Guide for Smith and Wesson Revolvers I will do this, used or new, because I don't want the bother of having to send a new pistol back to the factory, and I want a pistol that has the best trigger pull and timing. It is far better to know what to look for than assume everything is perfect.

I have had excellent experiences with S&W customer service, so, even when I wanted something done, it was done properly.

S&W would not drill and tap this 1968 M46, but I found a bud who would. Regardless of what Chuck Hawks says about someone's M41, this M46 is an amazing target pistol.

HTsKjB7.jpg

I would be interested in determining just what exactly was the problem with the problem with this pistol:

Another Guns and Shooting Online staff member purchased a new S&W Model 41 target pistol. It has never shot particularly tight groups, even after having been rebarreled (at the owner's expense!). In addition, it regularly malfunctions. He has put over twice the pistol's (considerable) original cost into it trying, with marginal success, to correct its faults.

I am of the opinion that it is of little value to rebarrel a match 22lr pistol, unless the chamber was reamed off center, the greatest source of inaccuracy is the shooter, followed by ammunition. I have talked to guys who have rebarreled target pistols, particularly Ruger's, and I am of the opinion that any accuracy improvements they claim to see, are due to the placebo effect, and to, small sample sizes. Guys with stock box Ruger MKII's, MKIII's, and MKIV's regularly kick my butt in Bullseye Competition, but it is not because of their pistol or my pistol. They shoot better because they are better shooters. (with enough hot sauce, even Crow can be palatable.) If someone had a M41 rebarreled and it is still not shooting straight, maybe the guy can't shoot, or, is feeding the pistol crappy ammunition.
 
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The legendary unreliability of Smith & Wesson's double-action auto pistols was widely known within the industry, but seldom mentioned in print by the outdoor press.
Out of curiosity, where'd this "dark side of S&W" stuff come from? As one who was issued S&W pistols once, I never heard about the "legendary unreliability ..."

And while I love all my old Smiths, some of my Bangor Punta era revolvers are the finest ones I own. And even the new ones I picked up with "the lock" and all the MIM have great lock-up and excellent accuracy. I'll pick up one of the new 19s just to have one to compare with my old ones.
 
S&W has gotten a pass from the big outdoor media since the 1950's. The legendary unreliability of Smith & Wesson's double-action auto pistols was widely known within the industry, but seldom mentioned in print by the outdoor press. (American Handgunner being the sole exception that comes to mind.) A good example of the "bye" that S&W has always gotten from the outdoor media is the fact that most shooters don't even know about the short cuts, rip-offs and problems cited in this article.

I will have to admit that I only have one S&W double action semi-auto, a Model 59. I will have to look up when it was made. But it has always been reliable.

Not a very big population, just one pistol, but that has been my experience with S&W double action semi-autos.

And while I love all my old Smiths, some of my Bangor Punta era revolvers are the finest ones I own.

I will have to do a count, but I must have four or five S&W revolvers from the Bangor Punt era, they are all excellent shooters, and the machining on the inside is immaculate. These were all made in the early 1970s. Perhaps it was a different part of the Bangor Punta era where all the bad ones were.

Which is why I asked Master Blaster if he remembers when that bad batch of 22 Masterpieces shipped.
 
I've owned a couple of Model 39-2's and I honestly don't recall a malfunction, and I didn't shoot them any worse that I do most other guns.

I've read that some of the early 39's and 59's had trouble with HP ammo, but I don't know that from any personal experience.
 
So I'm just gonna assume that if the member who posted about the "legendary unreliability" of the S&W semi-autos doesn't check back in, he can't back up his remarks ...

'Cause "legendary" implies that most of the pistols were not reliable. That's surely not what I remember about them -- particularly with respect to the 3rd Gen Smiths.
 
'Cause "legendary" implies that most of the pistols were not reliable. That's surely not what I remember about them -- particularly with respect to the 3rd Gen Smiths.

Between all the seccond and third gen auto loaders I've played with I was under the impression if you could fit a pebble in the magazine it'd feed it into the chamber. All the metal framed S&W's I've wrung out ran impeccably.
 
I too have said for a long time that if I could stuff gravel through the magazine of one of my 5906s the pistol would cycle it. I can't imagine a more reliable handgun. But I digress.

Snake - Nice choice on the grips , great combination. There's always the option of plugging the you-know-what , but it's your revolver. And a nice one at that.
 
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the grips on the new classics looks very nice. i have a new 586, but they are thin compared to older grips. hickock 45 made the same comment on a new classic model 29. i ended up putting on ugly houge grips to make it shooter better for me.
 
Okay, I will admit it, I have an addiction , a fetish what ever you want to call it for wood grips for all my revolvers. Like " Lays Potato Chip " I just can't have one ( set ). Something about the look of wood and steel is so beautiful. Here is some Hogue's Goncalo Alves Wood grips, I like these a lot too !!!
IMG_0299.JPG IMG_0295.JPG
 
I am sure that they are fine revolvers, and possibly stronger than the originals. However, I seriously doubt that they are stronger than L or N frames, as recently opined by Jerry Miculek.
 
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