New reloader needs advice - .223 Remington

[Frostbite]

Good day folks. Just got back from physiotherapy, and to my disgust, my therapist will recommend to my MD (whom I shall see tomorrow) that I don't go back to work for another three weeks, at least! That is extremely frustrating, to say the least and to stay polite.

That being said, I will apparently have some time on my hands, and the same physiotherapist recommended Lego to rebuild my concentration. I am not strong on stealing toys from my heir, so I asked if reloading would do the trick... And he agreed it would be just as good!

Now, here is what I already have on hand:
-A bolt action .223/5.56 caliber rifle in a 1:8 twist with a 22" barrel (it was born a Ruger predator, but the stock has been upgraded to a Boyds At-One and bedded by a real gunsmith, not me)
-Lee loader kit for .223, never used
-Plenty of uncleaned brass (447 and counting) from inexpensive ammo (Aguila) fired in the said rifle

If I understand the basics correctly, I am missing:

-Bullets. I think about buying Sierra 69 grains TMK. The range where I shoot offers 50, 100 and 200 yards. Other suggestions are welcomed.

-Powder. I first thought about Varget because it seems to be versatile enough to be the only powder I ever buy. I guess I could buy more than on powder if needed, but I like to keep it simple whenever possible. Some .30-06 reloading is quite foreseeable, some .243 reloading might also come in a much more distant future. Other suggestions are welcomed (for powder, not calibers, I have enough trouble like that with my heir's mother).

-Primers. I am thinking CCI Benchrest (CCI Primer BR4 Small rifle B.R.). Other suggestions are welcomed.

-According to Lee's instructions, a plastic mallet. I have read about a rubber mallet elsewhere. I am confused. Please advise me and be specific, i.e. : you need this mallet exactly, with web reference or picture if possible, and, if you feel like it, say why! Don't laugh, I have no clue what I am doing. I might as well buy the right thing first.

I will also need, in order to experiment loads, and most likely buy with the bullets and powder:
-Scale. Was thinking about a Lee scale Safety 1/20 accuracy. The absence of batteries is seen as a strong selling point on my part. The manufacturer says it is resistant to wear, which seems a good quality, but I fail to see why they would say otherwise. Other suggestions are welcomed.

Further down the road, I would probably (not so sure, don't really understand why, but hey, Christmas is coming) need a reloading manual of some sort (paper or web?); now, keeping in mind I will first reload only for the .223 and see if I like the result, and that I might be tempted to treat the .30-06 the same way in a relatively near future (volume does not justify it by any means for the .30-06 now, but what if I was to simply enjoy reloading?), your suggestions are most welcomed in that regard. You may also consider I do not need a manual. Please say so if it is the case.

I might even get to the point where I will refuse to bring dirty looking brass with me at the range because I will have grown snobbish. I have seen a few cleaning devices on the Internet, such as ultrasound boxes and another one where I would have to turn the wheel manually. I don't think I will want to turn the wheel. Suggestions/explanations are welcomed. Does shiny clean brass add anything to the quality of the ammunition? Seriously?

A few questions now:
-Is it really necessary to clean the brass (remove burnt powder residue inside) before I reload it? If it is, please advise on how to proceed. Tutorials are welcomed if you judge them appropriate.

-Is it necessary to trim the brass to exact length? If so, which tool should I buy? Think affordable quality here as well as anywhere else.

Thank you in advance. Please feel free to mention anything I would have forgotten. Remember, English is my second language and I am currently disabled due to a brain injury!

 

[Axis II]

Do yourself a favor and at minimum buy a lee C press for like $30.

Powder-Varget is good. I've had good luck with Benchmark also.
Primer-CCI 400 or 450. I cant tell a difference with BR primers so don't waste the $.
Bullets-55GR V max or 50gr V max or Nosler BT. 69gr SMK too maybe good.
Scale-Lyman micro touch
Redding imperial size wax
At least 2 manuals like Lyman 49th or newer. Read everything in the first pages before the load data.
Calipers-Harbor freight ones will do.
Lee trimmer for the drill
Chamfer and de bur tool.
Harbor freight tumbler either dry or rock.
Dies-Lee are OK-I like RCBS.

Before you load a single round or mess with anything you need to read a lot on here and buy the manuals like lyman or abc of reloading and read them 3 times and ask lots on here.

 

[fotheringill]

#1 priority is the manual. I suggest purchasing at least Lyman's 50th and one other. Ignoring the folksy BS and load data for rounds you are not currently shooting, just concentrate and understand what you are doing in each step and why.

Buy a starter kit. After a year or so, you are going to start replacing items you don't like with those you do.

Mallet- for whatever reason you want one, Home Depot has real fancy ones for up to $30 or on the bottom shelf in a bin a $4 one that will do the same thing (whatever that may be)

Varget is quite ok. 1:8 twist is good for up to 73 grain bullets.

G slow, go safe and have fun.

 

[badkarmamib]

The mallet is for the whack-a-mole kit that the OP already has. I would agree with the others to invest in a starter kit. The Lee set is around $120 US, and has a useable press, a good beam scale, and a good powder measure.

 

[LiveLife]

Do yourself a favor and at minimum buy a lee C press for like $30.

For full length resizing rifle brass, I highly recommend "O" ring type press, especially if you want to resize larger rifle brass in the future.

Lee Challenger Breech Lock press is $69.99 and free shipping - https://www.amazon.com/LEE-PRECISION-Breech-Challenger-Press/dp/B008F5H636

Regardless of press, a set of calipers is essential. I have been very happy with Frankford Arsenal dial caliper which has been consistent with several pin gauges to .001". Lowest price I found is $22 - http://www.jgsales.com/frankford-arsenal-dial-caliper-p-35742.html

Lee set is around $120 US, and has a useable press, a good beam scale, and a good powder measure.

50th Anniversary Challenger Breech Lock kit $119 - https://www.titanreloading.com/lee-...e-breech-lock-challenger-50th-anniversary-kit

• Challenger Breech Lock single stage press
• 1 Breech Lock Die Bushing
• Lee Safety Scale
• Perfect Powder Measure
• Powder Funnel
• Lock Stud and Cutter
• Lee chamfer tool
• Primer Pocket Cleaner
• Large and Small Safety Prime
• Tube of Sizing Lube

 

[ATLDave]

You need a manual. Maybe two. You need to read all the front material. This isn't baking brownies from a Duncan Hines box. You need to understand why you're doing what you're doing. You're undertaking to become a (non-commercial) manufacturer of ammunition. There's no shop foreman or chief engineer supervising you. You have to manage it yourself. It is imperative that you learn the real substance, not just go through the motions.

There are a bunch of other things you're missing from your list, but the need for them will be apparent to you after you read a manual or two. I just cannot urge you strongly enough to get a manual and read it carefully.

 

[Frostbite]

Gulp! Long reading is out of the question for a while. I understand the idea though. Thank you all for the warning/heads up. I will take note of the suggested titles for reloading manuals. Again, I have no clue. Just thought it did not need to be very complicated to reload at first, staying within established minimal and maximal loads listed by manufacturers. Will stick to the Lego and burn cheap ammo until I can fully comprehend some complex reading again. Thank you all for your time and sorry to have bothered you.

 

[ATLDave]

Frost', good for you for listening and hearing what people were saying. Reloading isn't too hard once you know what you are doing, but there is a learning curve at the beginning (as well as the requirement of some specialized equipment, such as dies and a press). Without a good understanding of what is happening, it's too easy to misunderstand a step and miss something critical... and create a dangerous situation. Build a bad Lego car and you can just take it apart. Build a bad round of ammo, and you can do real damage.

 

[Bat Rastard]

Get a manual and a press. There will be enough of a learning curve without the aggravation of whacking things with a hammer. The 69 grain Sierra is a great bullet. I also really like the 63 grain Sierra smp. I think the 63 grain was a little less expensive. Both bullets really loved Varget.
Go slow. Load a few at a time and test as you go. Don't load all 500 and go to the range.
Good luck!

 

[Bat Rastard]

Do you shoot any pistols?
It might be easier to dip your toes into the reloading hobby with a straight walled pistol cartridge.
Straight walled cartridges are simpler and much more forgiving to a newbie.

 

[ATLDave]

Oh, and as long as we're on the subject, I think the 69 gr SMK and Varget are an awesome combo. But I'm not a fan of the tipped SMK... the tip makes you seat a lot more bullet down in the case, and it eats case capacity. I like the original SMK in 69 gr .224 pills.

 

[KYregular]

Read up first, then read some more. I recommend the Lee classic kit, which comes with a great book. A lot of people like the Lyman 49th which is fine, it just seems to be tailored more for cast load data. If you are going to start out on 223, beware, it is one of the more cumbersome to load. Trimming, seating if needed, setting the proper headspace, etc. If you have a .38 or 45 those would be great starter loads. You good with Varget, as for trimming 223 I really like the World's Finest Trimmer.

 

[George P]

Since this is a bolt gun, perhaps just neck-sizing might be easier to accomplish. In any event, get a GOOD scale; you will also need some form of lubricant for your brass so they do not get stuck in the die. Do not worry about soot on the inside, the outside and primer pocket are a different story

 

[Odd Job]

Closed per OP's request.
Thanks for the helpful replies, I think he will be on the right track now.