Newbie BP Flintlock

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BP

I have a .50 cal Lyman GPR flintlock. My favorite load is 90 grain of Goex BP and a .490 PRB with a 0.010" patch. Works great.
As noted, substitute propellants will not work well (or at all)....their ignition temperatures are too high. You would need to duplex the load and since that requires BP, you might as well shoot the BP. Cleaning.....ask a lot of shooters and you will get a lot of answers. One thing that they all have n common is water.
BP residue is water soluble. All you really need to clean your flintlock is good old H2O. Hot, cold, soapy, mixed with alcohol, witch hazel, with hydrogen peroxide, etc.....it is the water that carries the load. Wash your gun when you're done.
Moose milk is helpful. Ballistol....a water soluble oil....is very helpful. Fluid Film, a lanolin based anti rust/lube is good also.
Priming.....you can, if you are using BP, prime the gun with whatever powder you are using for th main charge. I use FFFg as a priming and main charge powder frequently (though I prefer FFg for the .50).
 
Response time

Thanks for the help

Is their any great difference in response time using 3fg vice 4fg for priming charge?
Montrose Sporting Goods says 2 weeks he will have 4fg in, just wondering if it is worth getting a can or stay with the 3fg?
 
It should be better, faster and more reliable by virtue of the granules being smaller. A pound of 4F should be enough to last for a very long time. The only negative is that it tends to absorb moisture more easily and can turn "soupy" in extremely wet or humid conditions. In that case folks will wipe out their pan every so often using a cloth and reprime.
 
BP storage

Thanks I will order the 4FG.

BP storage?
I have my smokeless ammo in a craftsman wood tool cabinet, about 10 feet, diagonal from lp gas stove, in a half-finished basement, dehumidifier is on if gas stove off, is putting the 3f and 4f Blackpowder cans in that tool cabinet safe, basement low temperature 50 F high approx. 80 F 36% humidity . The other side has washer/dryer water heater, water pump, and bathroom.
 
$

Duelist: Thanks for the link. They are not far from me. What are they asking per pound?
Pete
 
Years ago while shooting with the Flintlock Team we used 10f to prime for instant ignition......very hydroscopic though....10f was basically 4f ground to a talcum powder consistancy.....and not for sale to the public.
 
I've been shooting a flintlock for several years and have found a number of tricks that could be convenient for you.
1. To pack all the stuff you need to the range I bought a plastic fishing box with two shelves. It keeps the things organized.
2. I buy blue cotton pillow ticking from the fabric store and cut it into proper size pieces.
3. I use Hoppes 9+ on each patch. It cleans the bore with every loading as I seat the ball, and also acts as a lubricant.
4. I use 4f for priming and 2f for the main charge. The 4f ignites easily.
5. I use Pyrodex from time to time but use a doublet load with it. That's a pan load (around 2-2.5gr) of 4f from the pan charger first, and the main charge on top of it.
6. An effective and quick cleaner is rubbing alcohol. It cleans thoroughly so be sure to oil the bore when fully clean.
7. It's easy and best to dismount the barrel for cleaning.
8. I also use a piece of aluminum foil in the stock under the lock. It protects the wood.
9. One last thing for now: I use a good furniture paste wax instead of oil on the outside, metal and wood. Nice sheen, never greasy when handled and no rust, ever.
Hope these ideas give you some others. Shooting black is fun...enjoy!
magnum338
 
Forget #6 the rubbing alcohol contains water and use Denatured Alcohol....if that's what you want to do.....I use it.....buy it by the can.
 
I'm puzzled why you wouldn't use rubbing alcohol due to the water content? Every conversation on cleaning black powder seems to settle on water but you say not? Denatured alcohol is very flammable and burns without any color to the flame so it can get exciting in a hurry if it ignites in the pure form. If denatured cleans then so should isopropyl alcohol and it is much cheaper and safer.
 
Most drug stores also sell 91% isopropyl alcohol which will evaporate much faster than the 70%.
And if it can be found, there's 99% isopropyl alcohol which is considerably more expensive. But I haven't heard any reports of folks using it.
 
Alcohol

I buy alcohol stove fuel at the hardware store. It is denatured alcohol. It can be had in pints, quarts and gallons. I have other uses for it so I buy it by the gallon. (49% Ethyl alcohol, 50% methyl alcohol and 1% methyl ketone).
Also, since one doesn't use much when running a patch, another source of "dry" alcohol is HEET gas line antifreeze. The yellow bottle is Methanol; the red is Isopropyl.
Pete
 
I'm pretty perticular about having any water or moisture left in the breech when I'm shooting / loading.......don't want to have to pull a load on the firing line.....that's why I use D. Alcohol.....no water content and it dry almost instantly.....have never experience a misfire using it.....Never.
 
Hmmmmm........not that I can remember, but that's just me....as I said, Im particular about any water or PD. remaining in the breech while I'm shooting or hunting.....again, don't want to have to pull a load and waste my time.
 
It's understandable to not want to put any water into the bore.
Most folks swab with a dry patch after swabbing with impure alcohol. Windshield washer fluid is also very popular to swab with among black powder shooters probably because it's inexpensive.
 
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In most cases it does but shooting in a match or just cleaning between shots at the range can leave moisture in the breech thus causing a flash in the pan......not something I want to deal with or am used to.....no lag time ever in my ignition due to dampness......mine is First Time, Every Time.
 
By the way......not to throw a sucker punch here....but.....as you progress in the sport you might want to look into "Rasping The Ball" usually next size up in caliber, with bastard files and not use patches at all.....I use this technique always with my smoothbores especially when hunting larger game such as deer or bear.....ficilitates for a much faster reload and accuracy is Right On........But that's for another day.
 
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xxxplosive
In answer to you the hot water/soap treatment is the last act after a shooting day...certainly not between shots. It's a long process and does not lend itself to range activity.
magnum338
 
Yup Mag.....I know that.....but have witnessed those that use soapy water on the range to swab between shots......just wince and go about my business.
 
I wish I could find a range with available hot water in my area. There are some around I know but, unfortunately, not here.
By the way you seem much more experienced than I am. When I started with BP about 8 years ago I used Hoppe's 9+ to lube my patches. Worked great. I could sit at the bench all day without a formal cleaning just like I could do with Pyrodex. The texture of the stuff is now different and it doesn't seem to work as well. Have you also found this to be true?
 
Never used Hoppe's on my muzzleloaders ever.......and to answer your othe question.....have seen some over the years bring hot water in a thermos to the range.....Geeeezzz......I always scratch my head when I see that.....Yikes.
Muzzleloader rifles and smoothbores are wonderful fun guns....they let you experiment to some degree and use you imagination too. Hunting with them is just awsome and you can make just about everything you need yourself......just great fun.
 
Fun? You bet. One laugh about it.
One morning I got to the range very early. Day was beautiful, sunny and still. Sat down and took the first shot. Immediately had to get up and move away from the noxious cloud that enveloped me so I could breath. No wind to blow it away and the cloud is nasty in the throat and lungs.
Magnum338
 
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