Newbie finally taking the plunge... help me!

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crash32

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Tomorrow I am going to go ahead and order the things required to start reloading a few of the calibers that I shoot.
The calibers that I am interested in reloading are my 300 Remington Ultra Mag, Beowulf 50, 500 S&W, and my 308.
The 300 Remington Ultra Mag, Beowulf 50, and 500 S&W are expensive rounds and not always available so I have finally decided to get started!
I need your help in directing me towards a very good decision in regards to my purchase selections that I will be making tomorrow.
This is what I have on my notepad that I need to get Redding Big Boss II (good for my magnum loads), Gem Pro 250 digital scale, digital dial caliper (not sure what brand), Wilson case trimmer.
My wife has a large capactiy ultra sonic jewerly cleaner that she never uses. I am going to try to clean my brass with and see how that goes before purchasing an ultra sonic cleaner just for my brass.
I have looked up the dies for my calibers and they range anywhere from $35 for a 4 set to over $100 which is very confusing to me. I do not see why I would need the more expensive ones? If I am not going to do bench rest comp.... I do not really see the need, but what do I know?!?!
I am not interested in getting a KIT as most of those kits come with many parts that are below par and I would end up replacing anyways.
Remember I will be reloading magnum rounds and my 300 Remington Ultra Mag is 3.75" which is why I am leaning towards the Redding Big Boss II.
Is there anything else that I need to purchase other than powder? Maybe a hand primer? Any help and suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated since I am a noobie and have never reloaded before!

Thanks guys!!!
 
Wow that is some big stuff to start on! Good luck, and read everything you can get your internet eyes on. You should have no trouble finding powders n brass et al., in the calibers your shooting.

Just be careful and take your time while learning this new endeavor. Check and recheck your numbers, your scales and GRAIN weights not GRAMS.

be safe.
 
The GemPro 250 and the Redding Big BossII are good pieces equipment.

A Harbor Freight electronic calimpers are good enough for reloading and sometimes they can be had for $10 or so with a coupon.

Check out this thread...

http://www.thehighroad.org/archive/index.php/t-238214.html

It has some good information. Also, the sticky, Reloading library of Wisdom has good information.

Finally, do a search for forum member Lost Sheep (I think that's his moniker). He frequently posts an excellent treatise on getting equipment for starting reloading.

Hope this helps.
 
I always buy Lee dies. When I buy more expensive dies its because Lee was out of stock. I thinks it just preference. Like chevy or bmw.
Get some case lube or you'll get stuck in a die. Rifle cartridges need lube, straight wall case don't.
The tool to trim rifle cartridges to proper length.
 
1) You don't NEED a gem pro. +/- 0.1gn is sufficient for ANY shooting task, including 1000 yard.
2) Most very expensive dies are both over-kill and not needed. The biggest option is the micrometer bullet seater. Many love them, but they don't seat any better—they just allow you to return to the nearly the same setting. I prefer to devote a much less expensive seating die to a given job so it ALWAYS seats the same bullet the same way (and I can buy several "cheap" seating dies for the cost of one "benchrest" seating die).
 
In regards to scales, I wouldn't want a digital one. I think there is less to go wrong with the beam/balance scale. That said, I would want the scale to have positive settings for fractions of a grain unlike some (like Lee and some RCBS models) where little thingys sit on the beam and can be accidentally moved. Also get a set of weights with which to check the accuracy of your scale occasionally.

You'll need lube but unless you wish to have an early introduction to a stuck case, I would recommend against Hornady One Shot. Imperial Sizing Wax is the way to go. Also, if the die isn't carbide, you DO need lube even for a straight walled case.

Then the dies... I have several different brands. Lee dies are the cheapest and only have a 2 year warranty while others have a lifetime warranty; not that I've ever had a Lee die break though. Hornady dies tend to be big and clunky but I like their lock rings the best and use them on most of my other dies; they positively lock without damaging the die threads. If I had to choose one brand, it would be RCBS except for some crimping operations for which I would choose Lee Factory Crimp Dies.

Not to say you shouldn't get a Redding Big Boss press but you don't really need it. I've loaded 378 Weatherby cartridges on an entry level RCBS single stage press I bought back in the early 1980s. I did have to get a Lee Classic Cast press though because that was a cartridge I had to crimp with a custom made Lee Factory Crimp Die with threads that were different than what was on the smaller press.

The great majorit of time, you should never have to trim a straight walled case. For the ones you'll have to trim, consider trim dies if your case volume is low (i.e., not more than a hundred at a time).
 
Thanks a ton for the reccomenations! I know that I do no NEED a Big Boss II, but I have always been the guy that enjoys having something that is more than enough for the job. The reason that I settled on the Gem Pro scale is because of the amazing 30 year warranty and also because I never want to wonder if it is correct. I have heard entirely too many stories and reviews about people's scales being off and will not zero. I am not excited about spending that much money on a scale, but feel like I will regret it if I do not.
Very helpful information about the dies and lube. From what you guys have told me, I will just get the standard dies and make sure I have a quality lube around. As far as my trimming does do you guys think the wilson is the way to go? If it helps, I will be reloading in small quantities and speed is not an issue here. I am unfamiliar with a trimming die and also if I get the wilson trimmer... Am I going to have to get individual dies specific to each cartridge to put each brass in before trimming it on the Wilson?
 
An inertial bullet puller (hammer-type), and a stuck case removal tool for that one time you think your case was lubed- but was either forgotten :what: or not quite enough. :banghead:
 
Go with RCBS dies, no need to spend more. I recommend a good dial caliper over a digital one. Start with loading the .308s before moving on to the big stuff. What kind of powder measure were you planning on? For my larger loads, I use my single stage press for, I like the Lyman 55. It's very easy to set, you don't have to change drums, and is very consistant, especially if you use the "knocker" on it.
 
I am a strict Dillon loader, so I cannot comment for or against your product selections. Product selection is preference pure and simple. I have a few other things I would add that a veteran loader told me when I started loading.

Load straight wall first until you get the handle of the task. Had I started with bottleneck I may have been typing this reply with my elbows. There are a lot of concepts to watch for in bottleneck loading that don't existing in straight wall.

Another thought for the initial attempt, is select a powder that will overfill the case if double charged. I am not familiar with any cals you listed above, but there is a lot going on during the reloading process and nothing draws your attention to a mistake like powder spilled everywhere.

When you are done with a session, run all your rounds to completion. By not leaving an incomplete round, you will never have to guess where you left off.

Recheck all your settings a few rounds into your first go on a cal and when you return after a break. Pulling 10-20 bullets is no big deal, but pulling a 100 is. A "friend" of mine did that...ONCE!

Finally, do not involve kids, TV, booze, any distraction to your task.

Good luck and write back with questions.
 
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I think case gauges are important for rifle calibers, to get your shoulders right.

And I wouldnt consider having an electronic scale without a beam also.
 
Perfection will not be achieved on the first try. Starting on something very common, like your 308, will allow more people to comment and help contribute to your ultimate success.

Reloading is a process. Perfect your process on something that will allow you to gather lots of feedback in a short time. THEN, apply your 'lesson learned' to the more arcane calibers.
 
Some like to prime by hand and some like to prime on the press. Redding makes a nice primer attachment for the Big Boss. You may want to reload in batches. Resize, decap, and prime. Then come back and throw powder and seat bullets. The biggest time saver for single stage reloading for me is a good powder dispenser. Don't skimp on buying one of those.
 
Thanks a ton.... any suggestions for a good powder dispenser that is quality, but at the same time won't cost an arm and leg?
Also, I am very confused about the trimmers. I was thinking about getting the wilson case trimmer and it is my understanding that I will need to order a holder for each cartridge that I will be trimming. So I am assuming I would need a holder for my 308, 300 RUM, 50 Beowulf, and 500 S&W or would one holder work for both my 50 Beowulf and 500 S&W? Would the 308 holder work for my 300RUM?
Do ALL case trimmers require particular case holders for each caliber?
 
50 beowulf

just a couple of points on reloading the Beowulf. It uses the case holders for 7.62x39, so they wont be compatable with the 500 S&W. even though they are straight walled, lube the cases, to me they are hard to resize and kind of wanted to stick in the die.
 
In my opinion the Gem Pro 250 balance is not needed for most reloading operations and a 30 year warranty is not enough to justify buying one. If you purchase RCBS equipment and it needs repair or malfunctions, RSBS usually replaces it without charge. Shipping is also included.

Two weeks ago I bent a decapping pin and rod. RCBS replaced the parts free of charge and paid the shipping. This die was 40+ years old.
 
So when I trim my 50 beowulf I would need a 7x39 case or do I need one specific to a 50 beowulf?
 
I think most of trimmers, you can trim a lot of different calibers. Unless you do a caliber specific kind, like a Worlds Finest Trimmer, which you chuck into a drill. I have the WFT for 223 and I love it..Im a trimmin' fool with that thing. That probably didnt help you much.
 
I suppose it depends on your trimmer, but in general any shell holders for 7.62x39 will work for the Beo. I had to buy one for my Lee hand primer. Just used the holder with the die set for my single stage press, but if you were to need a shell plate for a progressive it would be the one for 7.62
 
Not sure if it's been said yet, but a really good vernier caliper is often a life-saver. And you cannot own too many reloading data manuals.
 
Like Potatohead said, if you run a digital scale, back it up with a balance beam.
Also, buy some reloading manuals. I like to have a book from each bullet manufacturer that I use, if it's available. Hornady, Sierra, Speer, Barnes ect.
Go slow, pay close attention and be careful.
Good luck and enjoy your new hobby. ;)
 
I concur. You may notice a difference in loads from one book to another. I would err on the side of caution and take the lower of the loads that you find.

Another thing to remember is that the bullet selection is critical to proper load selection. For example a .45 ACP 230gr round nose is not the same load as a jacketed bullet and there are also plated bullets which should be considered loaded as if they were lead. I think the cals referenced above will all fall into the jacketed category.

I second the balance beam discussions. I have noticed that no matter how careful I am, my electronic scale can give false readings from time to time. If you select a powder that is not mild to wild in a few tenths of a grain (ie Power Pistol), the electronic should be fine, but if you are loading to max (which I would not recommend when starting out) you should also consider investing in a trickler which will allow you to dial in your powder charges very accurately.
 
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