Several points:
1. No, you do not want a SLOWER powder. See this article and accompanying measurements.
http://www.shootingtimes.com/ballistics/measure-relative-handgun-recoil/ (Go with a small-charge weight faster powder.)
2. Light-for-caliber bullets often have a higher perceived recoil, in part because of blast/flash. Try to be mindful of whether it's the actual gun movement or the slap/crack of the gun going off that makes them feel "hot" to you.
3. CAUTION: PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK
Minimums are a misunderstood thing in handgun rounds. Yes, some powders - mostly slow, hard-to-ignite, ball-shaped magnum powders like H110 - are very sensitive to reduction and really cannot be downloaded and still get reliable ignition. But a great many pistol powders can be downloaded a long way and still work very well.
Most loading manuals do NOT list a minimum charge. They list a STARTING charge, which most simply calculate as 10% less than the maximum. This is not the same thing as saying that reductions below that level are unsafe or will not function. Just as one can work up from a start load, one can work down.
Now, in large volume cases, the position sensitivity of the powder comes into play - i.e., does a small charge of fast powder behave differently at ignition when it is at one end or the other of the cavernous .45 Colt case? But you're talking about 9mm, a compact case without a great deal of room for powder to move around. (You might get slightly different chrono results based on powder position, but one would not expect big differences or wacky results.)
A few years ago, I played around a bit with low loadings with 9mm. Using a M&P 9mm, with a few different powders and 115 and 124 bullets, I found that the lower limit of loading was reached in every instance FOR ME by the recoil being insufficient to reliably cycle the gun. IOW, during my progression down the load weight ladder, before I reached the point of sticking a bullet in the barrel, or before any rounds ever failed to ignite, or any other failure mode, the gun didn't completely cycle.
Now, I wasn't using BE-86, and I've never used that powder. I know of nothing special about it that would lead me to expect wildly different results, but, as I said, I've never used it. Maybe there's some quirk to it.
Final note: if you're nervous that a load below the starting load is an "unpublished" load, and you only want to stick with loads that have the apparent blessing of a manual, get a Hornady manual. If the current version is like my slightly-older edition, you will find two things in their pistol loads: 1. they often have slightly lower maxes than other publishers (probably due to bullet geometry, thus proving that when working in the MAX range, bullet substitution can make a big difference) and 2. they list loads less than max-minus-10% for a good many powder/bullet combinations. (FWIW, I suspect their lower loads and projected velocities are just downwards extrapolations of their max data in many cases - but it IS data in a book.)
As with any reloading endeavor, proceed with caution and at your own risk. If you want to plumb the lower depths of workable charge weights, be sure to check the target for a hole on every shot to make sure you don't have a squib or stuck bullet. Look at your cases; if you see extreme sootiness on the outside of them, you may not want to continue, as you're not getting a good seal between the brass and chamber walls (due to insufficient pressure). Expect that almost all powders will run dirtier at very low loadings, and you may need to clean more frequently.
