Nickel plating?

[bullseye308]

I’m thinking about nickel plating a batch of LC223 for my Savage Axis just because I think it would be cool. This brass will only be used in this rifle. I do have a couple questions before I get into it.
1. Plating wouldn’t add enough dimension that it would be a problem, right?
2. Would you deprime and plate the inside also or would it even matter?
3. Am I missing something that could potentially cause any issues I’m not thinking of?

 

[dcloco]

Buy new nickel plated brass would be my suggestion.

#1 - quite possibly add too much to the outside AND inside of the case.

 

[mdi]

Most plating is only a few mils thick and you are gonna size the cases during reloading. Inside the case plating? Meh! As with any change in components, do another load work up with your new, purdy, brass...

 

[MikeInOr]

I purchase Nickel plated brass for my target rifles to differentiate it from my my other brass. I do not believe that the plating process would add enough material to be of any concern. The Nickel plating on brass is VERY thin. I guess if you did it yourself it could be over done but it would take a considerable amount of time to build up an amount of plating large enough to change the dimensions. I have heard some claims the Nickel plating makes the brass more brittle but have not experienced this with my Nickel plated brass.

If I were you I would just buy Nickel plated brass. If you really want to plate your own brass do something cool like half nickel, half copper or gold plate it.

 

[bullseye308]

Gold plate could be cool, but probably a waste. I don’t buy brass, it’s just not something I do . I do have plenty of brass on hand so I’m going to give it a try with a select batch of about 125 LC cases. That should give me a few to work up a load and 100 to fill up an MTM box with for normal use and I can track the number of firings. Also I’m going to be making some pens from some fired brass for Christmas gifts and need a few in nickel as well as brass for that.

 

[Demi-human]

That sound very interesting. I hope it’s not too much to ask for a good process thread when you do it?
I also think two-tone cases would be very neat.

 

[lordpaxman]

Very cool! I’m interested to see how you make out. I have an Outers “plating” kit that plates Pb or Cu from the barrel to an electrode, same process you’ll use just different metals. It might be tough to immerse the case if you only want to plate the outside. Good luck.

 

[beag_nut]

Just a thought, but why does plated brass for handgun cartridges last about 50% less life time than unplated (personal and reported data)? Is the prettiness worth it?

 

[Swampman]

Just a thought, but why does plated brass for handgun cartridges last about 50% less life time than unplated (personal and reported data)? Is the prettiness worth it?

It is if you're carrying it in leather belt loops.

If your equipment is from the 21st century (or even the last half of the 20th), you probably don't need it.

 

[HowieG]

Well, if it's what you can find, or they are on sale, they work for me. They clean easy and corrosion resistant. Load them for self defense and store them. Use regular brass for practice.

 

[HowieG]

I’m thinking about nickel plating a batch of LC223 for my Savage Axis just because I think it would be cool. This brass will only be used in this rifle. I do have a couple questions before I get into it.
1. Plating wouldn’t add enough dimension that it would be a problem, right?
2. Would you deprime and plate the inside also or would it even matter?
3. Am I missing something that could potentially cause any issues I’m not thinking of?

Plate them in gold. That would look cool.

 

[sugarmaker]

I had a pile of nickel 357 brass from a warden service training event in the early 70s. Over several thousand reloads (maybe 10 each?) both the cases and the inside of my sizer die were scored. I did not clean my cases, I suspected the hardness of the nickel was to blame.

 

[bullseye308]

That sound very interesting. I hope it’s not too much to ask for a good process thread when you do it?

I’ll be happy to, but there are many good YouTube videos I’m learning from.

Very cool! I’m interested to see how you make out. It might be tough to immerse the case if you only want to plate the outside. Good luck.

Leave the primer in and suspend the case with a bent wire just to the neck with no liquid getting in the case.

Just a thought, but why does plated brass for handgun cartridges last about 50% less life time than unplated (personal and reported data)? Is the prettiness worth it?

The newer nickel plated seem to last longer than the older ones. I have plenty of 357, 38, and 9mm newer cases that have many loads on them and still look new. I also have some 25+ year old nickel brass that some have flaked off and were obviously plated too thick.

I had a pile of nickel 357 brass from a warden service training event in the early 70s. Over several thousand reloads (maybe 10 each?) both the cases and the inside of my sizer die were scored. I did not clean my cases, I suspected the hardness of the nickel was to blame.

Pretty much my experience with older plated brass too, some seems to have been plated too thick.

 

[Buzznrose]

Another option is to buy nickel plated commercial ammunition. Underwood uses nickel plated brass…some Hornady too.

 

[entropy]

Having worked in a chrome plating shop, (nickel is used as a base layer under the chrome) I recommend not doing it yourself.

As has been suggested, get some factory nickel plated brass, or factory ammo. My preference would be Hornady.

 

[Palladan44]

If you could gain access to a LE range, you'd likely find a bunch. You could try and ask, you might just be surprised...
If I plan on loading more than one or 2 times, I say the heck with Nickel. It chips near case mouth after a few cycles of firing/loading. It wears off after a few cycles of vibratory tumbling, especially near case head. (sonic/ wet beads helps nickel to last longer) For some reason, I find nickel brass to crack/split more than naked yellow brass. This phenomenon is observed by many, but for reasons we don't really fully know why, possibly just nickel brass is more brittle when manufactured.
I do like to use nickel brass in handguns to differentiate loads just like yourself.
(Be careful, there are steel cased .223 (and 9mm) cases out there these days that are bright and shiny just like nickel brass. Normally steel is a dull Grey, but not these guys! )
Good luck.

 

[MikeInOr]

I have never had an issue with Nickle plated handgun brass wearing out or splitting but I guess I don't use them for high use situations. I load low power practice/plinking 9mm in nickel cases for my old C&R pistols and regular power loads in brass cases for my modern pistols. For carry ammo I usually use nickel cases on +p loads to differentiate it from regular power carry loads. I load gold dot bullets for all my carry ammo and it is easily differentiated by the brass colored bullets and the case tells me if it is a standard load or a special load. Basically if it is a special load that varies from a standard power load it goes in a nickel case.

Specifically I often carry a DB9 pocket 9mm which is only rated for non +p loads and use brass cases for these regular power loads.

All my rifle nickel cases are for a particular target rifle and those don't get full length resized after they are fire formed to a particular chamber. This is where it would be nice to have half nickel / half copper plated cases for cartridges that I have more than one target rifle in (i.e. .308)