Nickle plated S&W 32 revolver - what is it worth?

[sparky482]

My great aunt has 3 Smith and Wesson revolvers that were her husband's and he passed away several years ago. One of them is a nickle plated S&W 32 revolver. On one side of the barrel is "32 W.C.F. CTG" and the other has "Smith & Wesson". There is writing on the top but it is so worn I can't read it. I can make out some of the letters but can't put them together. The barrel is 4" long. The serial number is 82779. I have several pictures.

What gun it is and how much is it worth?

Thanks for your help.

 

[.455_Hunter]

Welcome to THR!

That is a .32-20 Hand Ejector from the post-WWI era, probably 1919-1920.

Couple of questions:

Is the bore in good condition?

Are the hammer and trigger nickel plated, as well?

If the answer to both are "yes", you are looking at a shooter grade $200 gun that went to the aftermarket plating shop sometime in the past.

If the bore is good, the hammer/trigger just case hardened patina, then the value increases.

If the bore is bad, the value drops.

The ideal gun has its original finish, even if worn a bit, and is worth more than a refinished example. The only partial exception is a gun factory refinished in a verifiable manner.

Hope that helps!

 

[sparky482]

They look plated to me but I don't know what hardened patina looks like. Should I add a close up of the hammer and trigger so you can tell? The rifling in the bore looks worn too.

 

[.455_Hunter]

They look plated to me but I don't know what hardened patina looks like. Should I add a close up of the hammer and trigger so you can tell? The rifling in the bore looks worn too.

Yes, some pics of the hammer/trigger and a bore shot would help.

 

[Tallball]

I am not at all an expert, but I think the bottom line is "not a whole lot".

 

[Driftwood Johnson]

Howdy

What you have there is a 32-20 Hand Ejector Model of 1905, 4th Change. 32WCF (32 Winchester Center Fire) is the alternative name for the 32-20 cartridge. CTG just means cartridge. S&W usually marked that on the barrels to call out the chambering. This model was made from 1915 until 1940, with serial numbers ranging from 65701 to 144684. There were 78,983 of them made. With such a broad range of serial numbers it is difficult to pin down exactly when it was made without a factory letter, but I have one with a SN of 725XX which left the factory in 1916. If I am making your serial number out correctly, the photo is a little bit fuzzy, 82779, it left the factory not too long after mine. As I said, the photo is a little bit fuzzy and I am not sure if the first digit is a 6 or an 8.

From your photos I'm not sure if it is nickel plated or just polished down to bare metal. It looks more to me like it has been polished down and the metal is what we call 'in the white'. I could be wrong though. I will tell you S&W always color case hardened their triggers and hammers. This one shows no trace of color on the trigger or hammer. Also, if it is nickel plated, the amount of wear on the markings would clearly have gone through whatever plating was there. So if it has been plated, it was done after all that wear to the marking. Because of the lack of color on the trigger or hammer it looks like a refinished gun, and not too great a job at that. Can't tell you much about the grips.

I'm going to take a wild guess and guess it is worth about $300 tops. The value of these old guns is all in condition, and the condition is not too great with that one.

Here is a photo of mine, the one that left the factory in 1916. Notice the colors on the hammer and trigger.

 

[sparky482]

Trigger and hammer pics. Can't get a bore pic.

 

[.455_Hunter]

Yup- they look plated.

If its a family heirloom you plan on keeping, don't feel bad about putting a few modern lead bullet rounds (like current production Win, Rem, HSM, Blackhills) through it, assuming the mechanical condition (lock-up, etc.) checks-out OK. Ask for help if you are not sure how to check.

If you are looking move it, slap $250 on it at the LGS consignment counter and see what happens.

 

[sparky482]

Yup- they look plated.

If its a family heirloom you plan on keeping, don't feel bad about putting a few modern lead bullet rounds (like current production Win, Rem, HSM, Blackhills) through it, assuming the mechanical condition (lock-up, etc.) checks-out OK. Ask for help if you are not sure how to check.

If you are looking move it, slap $250 on it at the LGS consignment counter and see what happens.

Thanks. I plan on keeping it for now. How do I check the mechanical condition? I got 2 others i'm curious about in other threads.

 

[.38 Special]

Just to pile on the bad news, revolvers in .32-20 are infamous for having bulged barrels. I believe I see at least one bulge, and possibly two.

<edit> I am looking at the image ending in 49, in particular.

 

[.455_Hunter]

How do I check the mechanical condition? I got 2 others i'm curious about in other threads.

Start with this...

https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...ll-if-a-particular-specimen-is-any-good.1430/

 

[sparky482]

Just to pile on the bad news, revolvers in .32-20 are infamous for having bulged barrels. I believe I see at least one bulge, and possibly two.

<edit> I am looking at the image ending in 49, in particular.

I see that now. Is it still safe to shoot?

 

[.38 Special]

Well, the bulge doesn't make it unsafe, though it decreases the likelihood of accuracy. As for the rest of the gun, chances are that there is nothing unsafe about it, but there is honestly no way to tell from pictures. .455, above, posted a good link. If you are considering using the gun - and I sure would, in your shoes! - I would give it a good read.

 

[.455_Hunter]

I see that now. Is it still safe to shoot?

I won't say one way or the other without looking at the gun, but...

My first .32-20, about 1910 production,had a bulged 5" barrel that I didn't notice until cleaning after my first range trip. It shot fine, but it bugged me. Since the gun was just a gun show purchase with no sentimental attachment, I sent it down river with full disclosure. My current .32-20 is serial number 3XXX and is probably 1901 production- it shoots great!

 

[sparky482]

Well, the bulge doesn't make it unsafe, though it decreases the likelihood of accuracy. As for the rest of the gun, chances are that there is nothing unsafe about it, but there is honestly no way to tell from pictures. .455, above, posted a good link. If you are considering using the gun - and I sure would, in your shoes! - I would give it a good read.

I was reading that post when my computer blue screened... going back now to finish it.

 

[Coyote3855]

Trigger and hammer pics. Can't get a bore pic.

I assume that's because you can't light up the bore and not because whatever caused those bulges are still in there?

 

[Jim Watson]

I think the barrel has been sawn off and the front sight soldered down over the markings.

 

[.38 Special]

I assume that's because you can't light up the bore and not because whatever caused those bulges are not still in there?

Yikes. That's kind of a good point. I would certainly take a look down that bore before shooting it.

FWIW, apparently "back in the day" there was a .32-20 load that was loaded with a slow-burning powder and a jacketed bullet. It was supposed to be for rifle use and when fired in revolvers would sometimes stick the bullet or the jacket in the bore. The next round fired would then bulge the bore. That is the traditional story, anyway.

 

[Jim Watson]

It would be an interesting experiment.
Lightning and Sharpshooter are long gone but 2400 or 4227 might do.
I don't want to load a prewar revolver that hot, maybe risk a Uberti SAA.

 

[sparky482]

I assume that's because you can't light up the bore and not because whatever caused those bulges are not still in there?

That is the correct assumption. I can look down the barrel and see that it is clear. But I can't get a picture of it.

 

[sparky482]

I think the barrel has been sawn off and the front sight soldered down over the markings.

I see what you are saying. Would the S&W book tell me about the gun when it left the factory such as how long the barrel was and what finish it left with?

 

[Jim Watson]

All SCSW says is that it is a Model of 1905 4th change made sometime after 1915, before 1940.
Worse, S&W did not ship in numerical order and the .32-20 was a slow mover, it could have stayed in the vault for years.
Somebody on the S&W board could get closer than a 25 year bracket but you would have to pay for a letter from the Historical Foundation (replacing the factory letters) to know exactly when.

No indication what one individual gun out of thousands had for original finish or barrel length.

Look on the bottom of the barrel on the flat that clears the extractor rod and see if there is a "N" or "B" stamped there with the serial number. Or on the side of the grip frame under the grips.

 

[Coyote3855]

I heard that many of the old .32-20 revolvers had cracked or replaced grips because shooting one without ear protection would lead the shooter to drop the gun and clap both hands over their painful ears. Probably just a rumor.

 

[EMC45]

Re-nickeled, cut and bulged barrel, soldered front sight... Get it inspected to ensure safe function/operation and have fun with it as a shooter. I like old guns, and mods done years ago don't really bother me. I have a Model 30 S&W .32 S&W-L I got off a buddy that has a slight barrel bulge and it shoots like a target gun with handloaded cast bullets.

 

[garandsrus]

Why were 32-20 barrels commonly bulged? That is surprising to me.

Never mind! I see the comment several posts ago. Very interesting....