Old Fashioned Bullet Swages from Scratch

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Snidely70431

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My latest project is to make old fashioned bullet swages from scratch. As usual with things muzzle loading, it was inspired by ideas found in Ned Roberts book, "The Muzzle Loading Cap Lock Rifle"

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As with most things firearms related, somebody has been there, done that, and all one has to do is find where someone has written it down. If it was.
 
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I've been fiddling with this project for a month or 6 weeks, off and on, with not very much to show for it, mostly because I missed an essential ingredient: The barrel of the bullet swage has to be long enough that the bullet will still be in the swage after being driven through the section that gives it its final shape and diameter. Today I finally managed to produce something resembling a bullet.

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The item on the right is a close approximation of the core, the item on the left is the swaged bullet. The core weighed 511.2 grains, the bullet 510.0 grains.
 
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The barrel of the swage is fashioned from a piece of Schedule 80 3/8 stainless steel pipe, bored out to.498 inch in the swaging area and.517 in the release area. 3/8 pipe has an external diameter of .675 inch. Stainless steel pipe is very strong and internally very smooth.

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The punches, which form the ends of the bullet, are turned from 5/8 inch mild steel.

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The bullet cores are the results of some of my failed attempts at making swages. I found that I could pour melted pure lead into the barrels and, when it cooled, it shrank enough that it would slip out of the barrel with little or no effort.

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This is from the Corbin web site, apparently their latest iteration of their pound dies:



Pound Die, Smooth Ogive Style

pd-2.jpg Quantity in Basket: None
Catalog No.: PD-2
Price: $750.00
Shipping Weight: 12.00 pounds

Enter bullet caliber (diameter) in inches:
Enter desired weight range in grains:
Diameter of flat tip, inches:
Optional Note:
Select Base Shape:
Flat Base
Cup Base
Dish Base
Hollow Base
Base Guard (BG) Base
Custom (enter specs)
Enter custom base details:
Enter optional HP length and diameter:

Quantity:


This is an 1890's style "hammer" swage, or "pound die" (so called because you "pound" it with a rawhide mallet to swage the bullet). It consists of a die body which fits into a larger diameter supporting base, a base punch with a large head, a second supporting base with a hole to catch the ejected bullet, and a long ejection punch to push the bullet out.
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The lead core is cast (or cut from lead wire) to the desired weight and length. Then it is lubricated with Corbin Swage Lube, and put into the die body. The die body is placed over the tip sealing punch and support base assembly so that the punch mounted in the support base fits into the small ejection pin hole. The length of the punch has been carefully synchronized with the die cavity so that the punch reaches the exact end of the cavity and seals the die.

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The large head base punch is then put into the larger hole in the die, so that at least a full caliber and a half of punch length is supported inside the die cavity. Using a rawhide mallet, or a weighted plastic-faced hammer, strike the punch head firmly as close to the punch axis as you can. Try to avoid striking at an angle. One or two firm blows with a 3 to 5 pound mallet will generate enough pressure within the die to swage the bullet.

The large headed base forming punch is then removed, and the die is lifted off the tip sealing base. The die is then turned over so that the large end of the cavity is down, and placed over the second support base (with the hole through it). The long, thin ejection punch is put into the small hole in the die, and pushed or tapped gently to eject the finished bullet.

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This style of die is most often included as part of a presentation rifle package, being made for the specific diameter of a slug gun (early form of benchrest rifle) or muzzle loading target rifle, or a separate bullet and cartridge breech loader. The sheer weight and size of the die, and the air-tight precision of the hand fitted punches and die bore, make the PD-2 an interesting conversation piece. Practically speaking the die eliminates the need for a press in swaging precise lead bullets, with or without gas checks, half jackets, or base guards. The tip punch can be changed in length and shape to make a flat tip or a hollow cavity (it is held by means of a snap ring in the support base).

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Another interesting take on pound die swaging:

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lancaster
(.450 member)
18/07/08 10:25 PM



book.gif Re: slugs, bore gun and paradox cartridges

beleg2 send me a PM
"Beg your pardon, I would like to know a little more about the way you resized Minie bullets from .585 to .605. i have a .577 Snider double rifle and I have try some bullets without success.
As I have a Minie mold Im very interested in you method.
Also, Have you try it on R.E.A.L bullets?

Thanks "

its possible, I leave once the house to buy a snider and come home with a bore rifle. was thinking that the .585 minie bullet will work in the .605 barrel but it work not great. a bore sized bullet is allways the best. when the military adopt the various muzzle loader conversions after 1864/1866 they also use the large stock of minie bullets for loading cartridges.found the hammer swage die in Graeme Wrigth "shooting the british double rifle". he describe the making of .516 lead bullets from .458 cast and I was think that this goes for me. the hammer swage die set is simple and easy to made on a lathe. you have the massive die body, a nose forming punch and a base punch. the die bode have simply a hole with your needed diameter. the base punch have this outside dia. and is plain on the base or like i need for minie's conical. the nose forming punch can have any design you like: plain, round or hollow nose like mine. it will work also with a real bullet with another base punch if you dont increase the diameter to much.this is the way to use inexpensive mold's in common caliber to make bullet for your special bore.

" then when the die set assembled it is stoody vertically on a hard surface and the base punch is rapped a few times with a heavy hammer. its easy to feel when the the bullet expanded"

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cast bulled, lubed, swaged, swaged without lube
its necessary to lube the bullet before because the swaging process will fill the grease groove's without. lead under pressure will flow like water.

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I've been getting pretty good results swaging cores poured out of pure lead, not such good results using melted wheel weights. Besides being free, wheel weights seem to be more easily removed from my core molds. I decided I needed a press. Being too cheap to buy a commercial press, I made my own. It works fine for my purposes.

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The top and bottom bearing pieces are 4"x4"x18" treated pine left over from some project. The upright pieces are 2"x4"x24". The bearing pieces are connected with 3" screws and 1/4" bolts. The bottom pieces a 2"x4"x12" and are connected to the uprights with 3" screws. A piece of 2"x1/4"x3" steel protects the upper bearing surface. Height adjustment is via scrap wood. Pressure is provide by a 4 ton hydraulic car jack from Harbor Freight "borrowed" from my wife's pickup. Out-of-pocket cost zip, since I already had everything I needed.
 
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That is so cool Snidely. Ned Robert's book is a wealth of information. I was reluctant to open it but once I did, I couldn't put it down. You even learn how to rifle a barrel in that book.
 
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