Optics for a ruger 2245

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xxjumbojimboxx

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I've Bought a 2245 recently. And installed the Volquartzen accurizing kit. The thing really is a tack driver. Its a hoot to shoot as well. I had a cheap BSA reflex on there.. But im thinking of upgrading to something else. This pistol will no doubt shoot better than I will ever be able to. What should I put up there? Try to keep it under 300 bucks if possible.
 
i just installed the burris fast fire on my 22/45.using the ruger mounting plate that replaces the rear sight. it becomes part of the gun.
you can't say that about anything you put on a rail.
in my opinion, the FF is the best sight at any price for ruger semi auto pistols n only for ruger semi auto pistols
if i was gonna put something in a rail, i'd jump to a $600 optic.
since this little thing weighs nothing n replaces the rear sight, the balance stays the same n you use it the same. teeny compared to other red dots , so it does take some training.
 
Hi Susie, Thanks for the response. Is the mount something you have to order extra? I have the rail installed right now. but could certainly take it off.... Also. would the fast fire do well at 100 yards?
 
for 100 yards, go with the smallest dot. you can buy the FFII with ruger mount.
included for $220.
the FFIII is nicer but you get the mount separate. you can get that with a 3moa dot.

i got the II because i saved $70. it has a 4mao dot.

i think both come with a ruger rail mount, no charge, but the big advantage is usig it exactly where the rear iron sights sit.
my goal is to hit a 4'' target at 50 yards.
what do you want to shoot at 100 yards?
 
Why, 1/2 scale rams of course :) I have a 3 inch plate I was hitting quite regularly at 50 the other day (this is before i put the volquartslzen kit in)... I feel like a 3 moa dot is about the biggest I'd want to go. If I'm not mistaken 3moa would print a 3 inch circle at 100 right?
 
yup. 1 moa=1''@100 yards
well, i guess it's time for me to see what this burris/ruger combo will do at 50 yards.
until i put the burris on i couldn't hit anything. my eyes won't work with iron sights on a 5 1/2'' barrel.
i do know that most 100 yard shooters jump right to those $600 dots, like the one with a1moa dot n a 65moa ring around it.
i wish this sight would let me show you a pic of my 22/45. a pic would explain why i'm sold on this combo, but you can find pics online.
burris says no parallax, but i read at least one review about parallax issues at 100 yards. i haven't checked that.
 
My better half is slightly cross-eyed and found the tube style dot scope the best for her .22.
So did I after just one range session.
The longish tube greatly helps get on target quickly.
And, if the dot fails, like when the battery goes dead, it can still be used as an aiming device, as we discovered at a steel challenge match.
Ours is a Tasco Pro Point red dot.
The extra weight doesn't seem to be a hindrance, it maybe even helps.
 
i have a cheapie tasco on my rifle. i'm very happy with it there, just didn't want it on my 22/45. i have nothing bad to say about tasco.
for one thing, i just ordered a holster. the burris will fit. got a rattler problem here. i need to be armed while working outside.
the ruger killed 2 so far.
when i think of a tube on a pistol i think of range gun. mine is just an everyday working gun.
burris claims their electronics allow a battery to last 10,000 hours but i have no idea if that's true.
 
G wilikers, there a big part of me that wants to slap a primary arms microdot on there and call it a day. Theyre cheap, and awesome.

Suzie, As far as the fastfire goes... Man its pretty on there. I could get rid of that hideous rail... Will you let me know how it does at 50? I cant imagine it would be terrible. I was shooting at 50 with an old BSA reflex sight with much joy.
 
i'll do that today or tomorrow, jj.
be warned. the burris takes 10 minutes to install but removing the rear sight took hours.
it takes lots more force than one would think.
 
That's when the right tool for the job comes in handy. If it doesn't come out easy with a hammer and soft material punch, well make our way to the press and squeeze that baby out.
 
I have had a Fast Fire III 3MOA on a 10" for several years. The Burris dovetail mount is worth the money. I think the Fast Fire III is also worth the price over the II because the battery can be changed with the unit on the gun.
 
colt is probably right. i just didn't have the extra $70.
opticsplanet sells the FFII with ruger mount as a package.
the FFIII is $30 more plus you gotta buy the mount for another $40.
the nice thing is the mount will accept either FFII OR FFIII so upgrades are easy.

thing is, if the battery really lasts 10,000 hours, i can live with extra problems changing one every few years.
the FFIII has other benefits tho..
 
I will admit I have never changed a battery in my Rugers III in 3 years. I use it alot, too and often leave it on. It powers off at 8 hours. It's nice knowing a battery change only takes 30 seconds, though.
 
The money on a Fast Fire is well spent. I put one on a .357 earlier this year. I have shoot about 2k medium magnum rounds through it. It has stayed zeroed.
 
would you believe, i bot this gun for the burris mount.? i actually wanted a browning buckmark, but i got the ruger because i wanted the burris/ruger combo.
that's why i didn't wait to get the extra money for a FFIII.

if they come out with the same mounting system for the buckmark, i'll snap it up.
 
jj, by any chance did you measure group size before n after adding the kit?
if i get real brave i might install one.
so far, all i did is remove the mag safety.
 
Suzie, Its not hard it all once you've done it once (my first go around took about 30 mins). I could do it in like 10 minutes now that I know what I'm doing. The kit is a GIANT improvement. The pre and over travel screws make for very pleasurable shooting and very fast follow up shots. I dont suppose you're in texas are ya? I didnt do any measuring, but the difference is more than obvious.
 
the truth is, i'd very much like that kit. i'm just worried i wouldn't get it put back together,
there are youtube vids, but the cameras aren't good enow, nor are the cams ever angled right to really see everything.
i do know for sure i shoot best with a 2 lb trigger.
 
I could walk you through it... Its really not hard. Basically your taking ALL of the guts out anyways.. Then just putting it all back in. The hardest part is setting the safety on the sear, and its really not that hard, just tedious. You do need a pair of needle nose pliers though...you cant set the items with your fingers (not enough room)
 
I use a large plastic spring clamp to hold the grip frame up right on my bench. I use a plastic punch to manipulate around the parts in the tight spots.
 
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