Optics for a ruger 2245

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The sear is the biggest difference maker. The angle is different than Rugers. The set screws are about all that makes the VQ trigger any better. Some Ruger triggers already have a post travel screw in them. Adding the pre travel screw is no big deal.
 
I bought a handful of take off stock triggers. I already have set screws in them. When a MK comes along needing a trigger job, I just swap the parts.
 
Many bullseye shooters swear by Ultradot Matchdots. I like them because the dot is adjustable down to 2MOA.
 
i'm a little irritated that i have to do all this work to get to the quality the factory should supply.

i was just shooting at 40 yards. got a 3 1/8 group. i'm impressed because i never shot at a target that far, with a handgun
not gonna happen again soon tho. i used a rest. one big purpose for this gun is killing evil bunnies. not gonna have a rest when i see one.
EBs cost me more than $200 last year, in expensive decorative plants.
 
You'll have to play with different setups to find what you like. I like a red dot in a deer/hog gun or for small game at shorter ranges. Like this MatchDot.

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Some guns that require a little more precision, require a bit of magnification like this Burris 4x.
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My favorite all around is a fixed 2x.
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i'm a little irritated that i have to do all this work to get to the quality the factory should supply.
To be fair, no out of the box $300 .22 is going to come with the crisp 2lb trigger possible with the VQ parts. That's just the mass-produced, litigious reality we live in.
 
truly beautiful guns, craig.
colt, did you say all i need to do is change the sear, instead of using the whole kit?
the sear is only $25.
jj, if you think a tube would be more fun for you, go for it.
everyone's gotta get whatever suits his or her needs.
i require portability in a pistol, so the burris is best for me. i have a scope on my shopping list, but it's for my marlin.
 
Just changing the sear will make the trigger break crisper and lessen the force needed. It will do nothing for pre or post travel. The sear alone is a great upgrade.
 
thanks colt. i bet that's all i need. i can live with this trigger. i just want less pull.
the first pistol i ever shot was a professionally tuned high standard with a 2 lb trigger. after 5 minutes of instruction, i was able to hit the black in a 50' indoor range, one hand.
trigger pull is a big deal.
 
oh, i hate that. i thot the sear would be easier because i wouldn't have to touch the trigger assembly.
if it's hard, i'll see if the pull just gets better with time. i thot trigger pull would get better when i took out the mag safety, but it didn't change.
it's not cost that stops me, it's fear i won't get it back together.
well, i read that trigger pull gets better after a few thousand rounds. i hope that's true.
 
Be BRAVE susieqz. If you cant do it there's a few of us here who are more than willing to help.

Honestly, its not super difficult, you just need to pay attention.

Ease scale below

1. field stripping a glock
2. dissembling a hi point 995
3. installing accuracy kit
4-9. whatever
10. Full dissembly of an aircraft carrier


3 might be a bit harsh.. probably a 2.5
 
I too have a FF III on my 22/45, but it's mounted on a rail rather than replacing the rear sight. I'd like to be able to keep the open sights if for some unforseen reason the FF III fails and I don't have a spare battery handy. It's going to take a little practice to get used to finding the dot quickly, but it will be REALLY handy when the suppressor I bought arrives. I've got the 4.4" factory threaded model. It's REALLY hard to miss a target if it's sighted in correctly.

Edit to add it's hard to miss a target with the FastFire III if it's sighted in correctly. I didn't even bother trying the open sights since I knew I would be putting the FF III on it. Maybe after everything is completed (suppressor included), I'll take the FF III off, sight it in with open sights and then sight the FF III in with the suppressor and be done.
 
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you know., i couldn't hit anything with my 22/45. i was thinking the gun was bad, but i decided i just can't shoot a 5.5'' barrel. i mounted the FF n can't believe how well i'm shooting.
i have no problem finding the dot because the FF is exactly in the same place the rear sight was.
um, jj, i herd glocks were easy to field strip?
the 22/45 is no picnic. takes lots of brute force n isn't much easier to put back together even without the mag safety.
 
... Why?

The Ruger is a fine pistol. I got my 2245 for 250 dollars, unfired. Retail is more like 3. Put a 100 dollar trigger kit in it, and you have a 350-400 dollar tack driving beast. Step it up some more and add a dot and you can hit anything with a relatively low level of skill.



I cant say I wouldn't want a buck mark now though :)
 
jj, i think i got screwed on my 22/45. i paid around $350 to my lumbr yard. they got it from gallery of guns n that's their price.
once i truly learn this pistol, i'll get browning buckmark hunter , stainless, with cocobolo grips. i deserve one beautiful gun.
the ruger will still be my work gun, it's gonna get dinged, bluing will be scratched up, etc.
ordered a shoulder holster for it so i could have it while i'm digging, hoeing, raking, hammering.
it already saved my life, so it's not going anywhere.
 
if you have any tips on getting better prices i'd love to hear them. the buckmark i want is around $500.
 
Its all local options. Here we have texas gun trader, armslist, facebook groups, and if you can get in good with a pawn shop or lgs, theyre usually great about taking care of return customers. Mine came from an lgs. It was preowned, but never fired.
 
i wish i had those resourses here. all i have is the lumber yard. i guess i could visit the pawn shops but they look kinda sleezy.
i have no objections to pre owned guns. this ruger was the first new firearm i ever had.

got a speed loader today. best $2.50 i've spent in a while. loading mags too much hurts my thumbs.
 
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